My 1996 VW Golf GL has a tag on the coolant expansion tank that indicates "G-11"...If there is a difference how significant is it. I would think that the current "green" antifreeze is now a bit lower in silicates and phophates but still has sufficient conditioners to maintain effective deposit control correct?
Does G-11 equal traditional green antifreeze?
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Yes, I think. In my older VWs, I use Texaco "green" "low-silicate". No mention of OATs, Dex or Long-Life, so I figure it's got sufficient silicates for my app.
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G11 is still G11. If its composition has been changed over the years, it will still be backward compatible. I do not encourage mixing of different types of coolant based on color.
You can safely go from G11 to using G12 or G12+ after a thorough flush. I don't encourage that in your case either.
You can safely go from G11 to using G12 or G12+ after a thorough flush. I don't encourage that in your case either.
Going from a non-OAT system to an OAT coolant is a no-no. You can use silicated in an OAT system, but not the other way around. G-05 is the exception that proves the rule. Why someone would want Dexcool in their engine is another issue.
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G11 is HOAT, G12 and G12+ are OAT. Is G10 (yellow/green) even available anymore?
Auto Union, where do you find low silicate Havoline green?
APP. I doubt ancient G-11 is HOAT.
It's not Havoline, but TEXACO. ????????!
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VW G11 is the same as BASF Glysantin G48 and ZEREX G48. All three are HOAT coolants, even if you doubt it. I could be wrong. Better check.
I agree G-48 blue. Zerex proposes G-05 as replacement.
Please explain. This comment does not match my experience. Dexcool works wonderfully in my Ford. I made the change when it was a year old. It is now nine years old. Dexcool keeps the system immaculately clean, unlike the "green snot of death" that it replaced.
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OAT coolant might damage soldered brass and copper radiators.
Ok..now I am really confused...
so I had G 11 in my system and I topped it up with traditional green antifreeze (Zerex) is this ok.?
I mean the bottom line is that it is glycol right...so as long as the silicates and phosphates are low it should be no problem right....I used the "green" and distilled water in a 50/50 mix as recommended by VW...
And indeed which traditional green antifreeze has the lowest silicate and phosphate amounts ....Texaco ?
so I had G 11 in my system and I topped it up with traditional green antifreeze (Zerex) is this ok.?
I mean the bottom line is that it is glycol right...so as long as the silicates and phosphates are low it should be no problem right....I used the "green" and distilled water in a 50/50 mix as recommended by VW...
And indeed which traditional green antifreeze has the lowest silicate and phosphate amounts ....Texaco ?
These are totally different chemistries, so it is difficult to predict what will happen. Best thing to do is drain it, run a fill of water through it, and change it to G-05 or back to G-11/G-48.
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I have no idea what traditional green Zerex is. I know it's for older American cars. VW never called for green coolant. G11 was blue.
I have had Dexcool in my '95 mitsu since about 1999. It has a brass/soldered radiator. Everything stays nice and clean. Never used a drop of coolant.
I know Zerex traditional green has regular/high phosphate level's of old school green, with low silicates. G11 is kind of the opposite, with low silicate and no phosphates.
Here is the thing I don't really understand the basic main ingredient of both G 11 BASF and Texaco green antifreeze IS ethylene glycol....of course we know that some small amount of adds are mixed in...the Texaco I used now has NO mention of phosphates at all...Yet it does say it is safe for all cooling system metals....and indicated that it has corrosion protection as well..
Sometimes I think there is alot of hype going on here...especially if the main ingredient is EG and distilled water is used since it should prevent any silicates from precipitating out...?
Sometimes I think there is alot of hype going on here...especially if the main ingredient is EG and distilled water is used since it should prevent any silicates from precipitating out...?
Except for the stuff that claims to be more ecologically friendly ALL anti-freeze is largly ethelyne glycol.
Ethelyne glycol is nasty stuff by itself, and thus the reason for the additives. Without additives, it attacks the cooling system.
The differences between types and brands of anti-freeze has to do with the additive package, not the ethelyne glycol. How much and which additives is the question, and to some extent it varies by world region.
Traditionally, the Japanese don't like silicate additives but do like phosphates. The Europeans don't like phosphates. The older coolants in the US used a lot of both.
For decades, one or the other or both were needed to create a barrier between the coolant and the engine metal. In hot spots, the coolant boils and creates a little steam bubble (this phonenium is know as cavatation) and would cause corrosion if not protected. The silicate and/or phosphate created a barrier to prevent cavatation.
Silicate has the nasty habit of falling out of suspension in time, allowing the coolant to cavatate as well as driving the PH toward acid.
Phosphate doesn't perform well when used with hard water.
Newer technology uses OAT (organic acid technology) as the main anticavatation additive. OAT without the other two is how Dexcool was made. OAT has the disadvantage that it takes a while to build up the barrier, longer then silicate or phosphate. Another new type or coolant is HOAT (hybrid OAT). HOAT adds a very small dose of silicate. Mercedes has used it for years. Chrysler and Ford use it now as well.
The latest trend with the Japanese is OAT with a dose of phosphate.
It's like comparing recipies for the same dish from several different restaurants. Each restaurant has their own. With coolant, each region as well as each automaker seems to have their own recipe, as well as their own color scheme.
The so called "all makes, all models" coolant seems to be OAT.
Color alone won't tell you what it is.
For many years, cars used whatever coolant was available in the country the car ended up in once the factory fill was drained. That still might not be bad advise.
Are any of them really any better than another? OAT was at the forefront of extended drain intervals. Other than that, in my opinion, it really doesn't matter. At least that's my $.02.
Ethelyne glycol is nasty stuff by itself, and thus the reason for the additives. Without additives, it attacks the cooling system.
The differences between types and brands of anti-freeze has to do with the additive package, not the ethelyne glycol. How much and which additives is the question, and to some extent it varies by world region.
Traditionally, the Japanese don't like silicate additives but do like phosphates. The Europeans don't like phosphates. The older coolants in the US used a lot of both.
For decades, one or the other or both were needed to create a barrier between the coolant and the engine metal. In hot spots, the coolant boils and creates a little steam bubble (this phonenium is know as cavatation) and would cause corrosion if not protected. The silicate and/or phosphate created a barrier to prevent cavatation.
Silicate has the nasty habit of falling out of suspension in time, allowing the coolant to cavatate as well as driving the PH toward acid.
Phosphate doesn't perform well when used with hard water.
Newer technology uses OAT (organic acid technology) as the main anticavatation additive. OAT without the other two is how Dexcool was made. OAT has the disadvantage that it takes a while to build up the barrier, longer then silicate or phosphate. Another new type or coolant is HOAT (hybrid OAT). HOAT adds a very small dose of silicate. Mercedes has used it for years. Chrysler and Ford use it now as well.
The latest trend with the Japanese is OAT with a dose of phosphate.
It's like comparing recipies for the same dish from several different restaurants. Each restaurant has their own. With coolant, each region as well as each automaker seems to have their own recipe, as well as their own color scheme.
The so called "all makes, all models" coolant seems to be OAT.
Color alone won't tell you what it is.
For many years, cars used whatever coolant was available in the country the car ended up in once the factory fill was drained. That still might not be bad advise.
Are any of them really any better than another? OAT was at the forefront of extended drain intervals. Other than that, in my opinion, it really doesn't matter. At least that's my $.02.
AFAIK, the new "all makes, all models" stuff is not the traditional green antifreeze. From the title of this post, I thought you were talking about traditional green antifreeze. It is probably OK, but I would still change out the coolant. After all it is a '96. Isn't it about due?
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