Does filter catch most damaging metal flakes?

Dec 24, 2021
Thanks, I did consider using a flushing product it heard so many people saying not to use them as they dissolve a lot of gunk that can get into and block small passages.
I planned on doing the process you suggested but instead of a flushing oil to use a cheaper grade oil for the “flush”
Would a flushing product be better at flushing out metal particles than a flushing oil, thought the flushing oil uses chemicals to dissolve built up sludge, so more for engines that have been neglected and are pretty dirty.
Happy to give it a go if it’s better than using regular oil, not too bothered about sludge build up, my engines pretty clean inside as it’s always had regular oil changes.
I think it would be better to use a flush because any metal potentially stuck in sludge or soft deposits could be carried out. Also because the oil would be thinned down it seems logical that it could wash the metal & crud out better.
That’s just me thinking what I might would do in your situation. There maybe better ways I’m not thinking about though so those are just my best ideas.
Either way I hope it works out the best way possible for you, brother.
Feb 27, 2009
down in the park
If I run several short OCIs under very low loading, could I get away with a slightly lower grade of oil?

The E46 M3 uses Castrol Edge 10w60 which is about £100 per oil change!

I normally have the oil Analysed for metals each oil change, so that would help show if the metal content is reducing, and also if there is any damage to rod or main bearings.

I'd use 20W-50 or 15W-40, something with as thick of a base oil as possible to keep the crank and bearings as seperated as possible. Any particles bigger than the oil film thickness will score the bearings and possibly crank when they get stuck there.