For the slope i have at the cottage... I need a 2-stroke for that very reason.. !
Does anyone still make 2 Cycle Push Mowers?
- Thread starter bunnspecial
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No and they havent for a number of years now. The last ones that I can remember are the old Lawn Boys and the Toros. I remember my parents having the Toro when I was a kid. As the others said, the emission regs basically killed them off.
They were cool that you never had to change oil in them and they had a sweet exhaust note but starting them could be a pain. If you hit the compression stroke wrong when you tried to start it, the recoil would catch and it would just about rip your shoulder out of the socket.
They were cool that you never had to change oil in them and they had a sweet exhaust note but starting them could be a pain. If you hit the compression stroke wrong when you tried to start it, the recoil would catch and it would just about rip your shoulder out of the socket.
What a shame our government is getting into every facet of our lives. It's not what it was supposed to be, but we're stuck with it. Those old Lawnboys were the best mowers ever made and I've mowed many acres of grass with them over the years. I would buy an old one in a minute and have even looked at reconditioned ones on ebay several times thinking I'd buy one, they're that good.
For those still posting, I'll mention again that I was able to buy a pair of last generation Duraforce-engined Lawnboys.
Just for the sake of it, I am kind of keeping my eyes open locally on Craigslist and FB Marketplace for an F engine(bottom exhaust) one, especially since a lot "don't run" and parts seem really easy to get for those engines(compared to the newer Duraforce engine).
For now, though, I'm set with one great running 10323 self propelled 6.5hp Duraforce Lawnboy. I have a second that I've replaced several parts on, but managed to break one of the rings getting it unstuck and am keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced set of rings(~$40 is the best I've found) or preferably a piston and rings($70 is the best I've managed).
It's definitely been fun learning my way around them, though, and I will get this one back to life.
BTW, once I'd gone through the fuel system including a thorough carb clean-up and rebuild, one of the ones I have has now been dead reliable. Hit the primer 3 times, set it to choke, and it starts on the first pull nearly every time.
Also, as a testament to durability, I'm kind of amazed that the one whose engine is now in pieces actually would run. It was cantankerous to start, and when I actually checked the compression it was 65psi(the service manual gives 80psi as the lower acceptable service limit). I dug into the engine because I took a closer look and realized one of the two reed valves was gone-it had rusted away. The crankcase has to be opened to replace them(they were easy to find, especially as they are the same as the F engine, and I could have robbed them off a parts crankcase I have but thought I'd be better to buy new while I could still find them). If I had to open the crankcase, I figured I'd pull the piston and that's when I found the stuck ring. In that, I also realized(don't know how I'd missed it) that the head gasket was bad. You could hear it "hissing" when cranking, and there was a visible spot where it had blown out and was blowing oily exhaust onto the front of the engine and deck. I put that in the category of "How the heck was this thing running?"
Just for the sake of it, I am kind of keeping my eyes open locally on Craigslist and FB Marketplace for an F engine(bottom exhaust) one, especially since a lot "don't run" and parts seem really easy to get for those engines(compared to the newer Duraforce engine).
For now, though, I'm set with one great running 10323 self propelled 6.5hp Duraforce Lawnboy. I have a second that I've replaced several parts on, but managed to break one of the rings getting it unstuck and am keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced set of rings(~$40 is the best I've found) or preferably a piston and rings($70 is the best I've managed).
It's definitely been fun learning my way around them, though, and I will get this one back to life.
BTW, once I'd gone through the fuel system including a thorough carb clean-up and rebuild, one of the ones I have has now been dead reliable. Hit the primer 3 times, set it to choke, and it starts on the first pull nearly every time.
Also, as a testament to durability, I'm kind of amazed that the one whose engine is now in pieces actually would run. It was cantankerous to start, and when I actually checked the compression it was 65psi(the service manual gives 80psi as the lower acceptable service limit). I dug into the engine because I took a closer look and realized one of the two reed valves was gone-it had rusted away. The crankcase has to be opened to replace them(they were easy to find, especially as they are the same as the F engine, and I could have robbed them off a parts crankcase I have but thought I'd be better to buy new while I could still find them). If I had to open the crankcase, I figured I'd pull the piston and that's when I found the stuck ring. In that, I also realized(don't know how I'd missed it) that the head gasket was bad. You could hear it "hissing" when cranking, and there was a visible spot where it had blown out and was blowing oily exhaust onto the front of the engine and deck. I put that in the category of "How the heck was this thing running?"
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Your only hope is a yard sale
Please actually read the thread
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OK, I actually will. Some day
If you'd bothered you would have seen that the issue was dealt with on the second page...and also that your assessment of my "only hope" was incorrect.
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Right.
I have 5 Lawn Boy mowers and 2 that see regular use for trimming. I have hills and slopes and no 4 strokes can do that. If these ever die I'm going battery.
Mostly, but not quite true. I used Lawnboy 2 stroke mowers on my sloped front yard and ditch up until the late 90’s. Loved the LB‘s until I bought a 1998 John Deere JX 75 with the Kawasaki 6 hp pressure lubed 160v engine, which also has an oil filter. My JX75 is nearly on it’s side in several areas of my 120 foot ditch but keeps chugging along after all these years. JD no longer makes the JX75, 14SB, 14SE, JX85 etc with the Kawasaki oil pump equipped engined mowers so I snagged a very clean JX75 off CL last winter for $150 as a back up just in case my old one ever gives out.
There are a lot of 4 stroke mowers that can side hill. Mainly those equipped with the kawi fj180v which gets plunked on top of all sorts of mowers. Mainly toro and exmark commercial 21s though I’ve seen them on MTDs, Troy bilts and the like.
My Lawn Boy has at a time or two rolled over completely while mowing a ditch. It never missed a beat. Flipped it back to the ditch and kept mowing.
I really do love my LawnBoy Duraforce mower. It's been mowing the ditch for years now. However, just did the ditch with the Toro 60V and it's every bit as good at the difficult job, lighter too.
Thought you'd appreciate a pic of the LawnBoy in the back of my Cessna.
Thought you'd appreciate a pic of the LawnBoy in the back of my Cessna.
Just a few minutes ago rejetted the carb on one of mine and the infamouse Duraforce Lean Surge is gone. It was a 3 minute job that didn't even require removing the carb from the mower(I just did the pilot jet).
The tach I stuck on is showing me that with the re-jetting it's running at 2900rpm pretty dead on(and steady-maybe only about a +/-20rpm). For some reason I had it in my head it should be a bit faster, but the service manual says 2900 +/-300rpm.
I guess there really is nothing to do. I hadn't looked at the spec speed in the manual before swapping the jet so I came back in to look and see where I should be targeting. Since it's where it should be, I'm guessing I should leave well enough alone with the governor.
Also, while I was checking-or actually before changing the jet-I went around with a propane torch to make sure I didn't have leaks at the carb flanges(as I've read reports of them warping) or other issues. I couldn't get any obvious vacuum leaks.
The tach I stuck on is showing me that with the re-jetting it's running at 2900rpm pretty dead on(and steady-maybe only about a +/-20rpm). For some reason I had it in my head it should be a bit faster, but the service manual says 2900 +/-300rpm.
I guess there really is nothing to do. I hadn't looked at the spec speed in the manual before swapping the jet so I came back in to look and see where I should be targeting. Since it's where it should be, I'm guessing I should leave well enough alone with the governor.
Also, while I was checking-or actually before changing the jet-I went around with a propane torch to make sure I didn't have leaks at the carb flanges(as I've read reports of them warping) or other issues. I couldn't get any obvious vacuum leaks.
You can run that duraforce at 3300 rpms with no problem if you want a faster cut. 3000 rpms seems really slow for them IMO
which pilot jet did you go with? The #40 Suzuki or the #42 Briggs jet ?
I did the 42.5 Briggs one-I don't guess I had seen a reference to doing a #40 jet. The 42.5 made senses to me, though, since that's what they put on the snowblower(albeit paired with a smaller main jet).
I am really tempted to speed it up a bit. It seems like it still has power to go at 2900rpms, and I know that at least up to a point(IIRC when you hit the intake/exhaust resonance? Or maybe I'm talking out my rear end...) you're climbing a pretty steep power curve as you increase the speed of a two stroke.
At the same time, I don't want to put too much stress on this engine as I want it to last a LONG time, especially knowing that it's going to cost me $100 for a piston/rings if I want to get my other Duraforce going. The parts just don't seem to be out there for these engines like they are the F engines.
3300rpms doesn't sound crazy though either, so maybe I will crank it up and just see what happens. When I mow without a self propelled mower, I tend to walk faster than this one goes running at 2900rpms.
The #40 jet is used on some kind of Mikuni carb but fits lawnboys. I have owned a few duraforces and all of them reacted differently to re-jetting. I currently have a 10323 and a 22261. I use a #40 in the 10323, a #42 makes it “ 4 stroke” too much. The 22261 needed no jet changes, it has a slight “ burble “ with the stock 37.5 pilot jet.
The duraforce is also used in Toro sno commander snow throwers too. They run upwards of 4100 rpm and internally are the same as the lawnmower engine except they are piston ported vs the reed valve in the mower.
I ran an several gallons of gas through an old, tired, slightly scored up duraforce at 36-3700 rpms and nothing bad happened, so definitely don’t be afraid of 3300 rpms.
Thanks, you've convinced me!
Both of mine(the running one and the one I need a piston/rings for) are 10323s. I may try a #40 jet also just to see how it compares. It seems to me as though the using the smallest jet that will let it run correctly is the smartest move(especially at $5/gallon gas!).
Still, though, I'll go out before I mow again nnd crank the governor up to get it to ~3300rpms.
I have used the lawn boys and they are light and mow very good. I now have a Snapper Commercial self propelled with the Robin 6 HP engine.
What a beast very heavy and well made. It even has steel wheels with greasable bearings. This thing will drag me if I let it. Very smooth and great to use. It will cut through foot tall grass without slowing down. It have a 3 stage air filter and oil filter with pressure lubrication. I haven't used it lately as I now live on a 1 acre yard and needed a rider. If anyone is interested let me know I live near Louisville KY. Would love someone else to be able to put it to use.
What a beast very heavy and well made. It even has steel wheels with greasable bearings. This thing will drag me if I let it. Very smooth and great to use. It will cut through foot tall grass without slowing down. It have a 3 stage air filter and oil filter with pressure lubrication. I haven't used it lately as I now live on a 1 acre yard and needed a rider. If anyone is interested let me know I live near Louisville KY. Would love someone else to be able to put it to use.