Does 2011 GLK350 Mercedes M272 GDI require a Valvoline Restore and Protect Colonic?

[MechEngine]

I have a used 2011 Mercedes GLK350 with 121K miles GDI motor. I am squeamish about using the Valvoline Restore and Protect as Mercedes specifies oil that meets their particular specifications. I am currently using Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40 SP (meets Mercedes 229.3 and 229.5). I am also located in Glendale AZ where it gets hotter than a toaster and leery of running 5W-30 VRP. Last oil change had 261 miles at 12 months, I ran two cans of CRC intake valve cleaner and I ran it hard 100 MPH before draining. Some sparkles in the drain pan but none present in the filter. Oil was much darker than expected, I attribute that to the CRC intake valve cleaner and very hot draining and Italian Tuneup. Please Bob...Et Al give me some good advice on what to do and run to keep this pricey engine alive and well.

 

[fantastic]

Good question, I don't blame you for asking & I'd probably not run R&P either. From my perspective I'd put in some HPL sauce such as their EC30 or their premium oil to potentially clean.

 

[edyvw]

I have a used 2011 Mercedes GLK350 with 121K miles GDI motor. I am squeamish about using the Valvoline Restore and Protect as Mercedes specifies oil that meets their particular specifications. I am currently using Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40 SP (meets Mercedes 229.3 and 229.5). I am also located in Glendale AZ where it gets hotter than a toaster and leery of running 5W-30 VRP. Last oil change had 261 miles at 12 months, I ran two cans of CRC intake valve cleaner and I ran it hard 100 MPH before draining. Some sparkles in the drain pan but none present in the filter. Oil was much darker than expected, I attribute that to the CRC intake valve cleaner and very hot draining and Italian Tuneup. Please Bob...Et Al give me some good advice on what to do and run to keep this pricey engine alive and well.

Run what you have been running so far. Forget additives.
Ambient temperature is not big deal.

 

[Andyd95]

See no reason to run it, Mobil 1 is fine

 

[loneryder]

Good question, I don't blame you for asking & I'd probably not run R&P either. From my perspective I'd put in some HPL sauce such as their EC30 or their premium oil to potentially clean.

If you want to run a cleaner, use 2 pts of HPL EC30. Don't run the R&P.

 

[4WD]

I believe both EC30 and EC40 are recommended at 20% …
I use EC30 at 25% to not have the half full quart leftover …

 

[Mainia]

I would use HPL EC40. Why would you choose EC30 when your using 5W-40 oil and your in AZ.

 

[gogydm]

That engine is not direct injected. I run HPL Euro 5W-40 (or Super Car, same oil in this viscosity) in mine and I love it. I did run EC40 before switching over. Make sure your oil separator is in good shape, your intake manifold will thank you. Make sure your flaps are still operating properly and if not, time for a new intake.

 

[MechEngine]

That engine is not direct injected. I run HPL Euro 5W-40 (or Super Car, same oil in this viscosity) in mine and I love it. I did run EC40 before switching over. Make sure your oil separator is in good shape, your intake manifold will thank you. Make sure your flaps are still operating properly and if not, time for a new intake.

I am pretty sure the M272 in my 2011 GLK350 is GDI. I used to run 8 ounces of seafoam before oil change but then Bob said that that dilution of the oil was not good in one of his videos.

 

[loneryder]

I would use HPL EC40. Why would you choose EC30 when your using 5W-40 oil and your in AZ.

I didn't know they had 40wt. That's what I would use. If his car has the 3.5, it takes 7 qts. I would use 2 EC's.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I am pretty sure the M272 in my 2011 GLK350 is GDI. I used to run 8 ounces of seafoam before oil change but then Bob said that that dilution of the oil was not good in one of his videos.

No reason since you're not burning oil and I believe your car recommends 229.50. R&P doesn't meet the min HTHS required of 229.50.

 

[MechEngine]

No reason since you're not burning oil and I believe your car recommends 229.50. R&P doesn't meet the min HTHS required of 229.50.

Hi, I purchased the GLK350 in 2019 with 119K on it from a seller that refused to provide the records for the car. He had done some sleazy things like put tape over a broken bolt on the trailer hitch to frame joint. I am trying to show the car some love and try to remove any internal contaminants from possible poor maintenance. The car is running quite well there is some black sooty deposits at the tailpipe but no smoke.

 

[gogydm]

I am pretty sure the M272 in my 2011 GLK350 is GDI. I used to run 8 ounces of seafoam before oil change but then Bob said that that dilution of the oil was not good in one of his videos.

The direct injected M272 did not make it to the US, all are port injection. I am not a huge fan of Mobil (oh no, here comes the whole forum with their pitchforks) and my car was burning it at a faster rate than any other oil, but I am at over 250k miles. HPL is good stuff for this engine.

 

[kschachn]

Whether or not it needs a “colonic” is up to you. Right now you’re not describing anything that says it has a problem.

 

[MechEngine]

The direct injected M272 did not make it to the US, all are port injection. I am not a huge fan of Mobil (oh no, here comes the whole forum with their pitchforks) and my car was burning it at a faster rate than any other oil, but I am at over 250k miles. HPL is good stuff for this engine.

Wow! You might be right! I don't remember seeing injectors when I changed the plugs! That would be awesome as I don't have to worry about intake deposits or clogged Direct injectors! Now I have 8-10 cans of CRC Intake Valve Cleaner on my shelf!

 

[MechEngine]

Whether or not it needs a “colonic” is up to you. Right now you’re not describing anything that says it has a problem.

Happily....so far...so good! Got my fingers crossed! I may have Tinkeritus...

 

[MechEngine]

That engine is not direct injected. I run HPL Euro 5W-40 (or Super Car, same oil in this viscosity) in mine and I love it. I did run EC40 before switching over. Make sure your oil separator is in good shape, your intake manifold will thank you. Make sure your flaps are still operating properly and if not, time for a new intake.

Thank you for telling me that it is not GDI but port injected...I didn't believe you at first! Yes, I replaced the pcv oil separator...I cannot see the flaps but Idle and accel is solid. I would buy a metal lever for the flaps, got my fingers crossed! I am so happy I don't have to deal with intake deposts at 121K...

 

[gogydm]

Thank you for telling me that it is not GDI but port injected...I didn't believe you at first! Yes, I replaced the pcv oil separator...I cannot see the flaps but Idle and accel is solid. I would buy a metal lever for the flaps, got my fingers crossed! I am so happy I don't have to deal with intake deposts at 121K...

Sounds like you've taken care of the big items. I'd advise against the metal rods and here is why. The weakest parts fail, which happen to be the plastic rods on the diaphragms, when the flaps get gunked up. When you replace those with metal, the weakest parts become the flaps themselves. Once they break, pieces fall onto the intake valves and then into the cylinder. Better a check engine light than plastic in the cylinders I reckon. The other thing would be that you'd see the diaphragms moving the metal rods, yet you'd still have a stored code for the flaps if they break at the point where the rods attach to the plastic rod entering the intake that the flaps are attached to. The intake manifold is not a super hard job, just takes time and patience.

 

[MechEngine]

From the videos I have seen the ball ends of the rods separate from the plastic link. Who makes the desired replacement parts...since MB won't supply anything but the entire intake? Would it be better at that point to remove the plastic flaps and run without? 20 year old brittle plastic vanes sounds like a grenade waiting to happen...Also, I don't know when of if the timing chain was replaced...Am I good to 150-200k?

 

[gogydm]

The metal parts are all made by different 3rd party manufacturers. In my opinion, one is better off with non-functioning flaps than metal rods with the risk of the flaps falling inside the engine. If you go to the length of removing the flaps, you might as well just install a new manifold. Keeping up with regular oil changes and PCV oil separator cap every 30-40k, the chances of having to replace the manifold a second time within the ownership of the car are really slim. I am not sure if Mercedes still sells a brand new one, but when I had to replace mine they only had refurbished ones. If you go with a Pierburg or Hella (which is Pierburg made and stamped with a Hella outside cardboard box) then you'd have the OE manifold with the Mercedes part number scratched off. This is the route I took. As for the timing chain, it is not common to have one go. Just as an FYI, it is a dual row chain. Your vehicle and therefore engine is a lot newer so you are also not likely to suffer the oil leaking into the wiring harness from the adjuster magnets that the older ones had.