That is why I said do a load test on your Battery I think it's showing 12 Volts but has no amps under load because it's messed up.
Dodge Neon weird electrical occurance
- Thread starter hooligan24
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so, if I hook up the multimeter to the battery(neg to neg, pos to pos), remove the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay, crank over the motor for 15 seconds and record what the lowest point on the meter is, will that be a proper load test?
No you need a true load tester and you need to hold it for 20 seconds and then release. It should drop no lower than 10 volts and snap back to 12 volts within about 10 seconds.
If it drops below 10 volts the battery is screwed.
Try boosting the car with jumper cables this would be an easy way to prove the battery is screwed without having to do a load test.
Have the other car running when you do it...
If it drops below 10 volts the battery is screwed.
Try boosting the car with jumper cables this would be an easy way to prove the battery is screwed without having to do a load test.
Have the other car running when you do it...
the car runs and starts fine, it was just the one occurance when all power went out the window, and then fixed itself within a minute.
I ran to harbor freight and bought their 100amp load tester. It was on sale for 19.99 from their normal 29.99. I also had a 20% off coupon and a coupon for a free flashlight, so it was worth the trip.
- With the engine running, the tester showed 13.9v(which is what my gauge was showing).
- With the ASD and fuel pump fuses removed, the tester showed a low of 11.2v while cranking the engine for 8 seconds. It quickly jumped back to 12.5v after turning the key off.
- After the starting test, the battery was at 12.5v before starting the load test. The instructions said to hold the load for at least 5 seconds, so I went 10 seconds. Right before I released the load the meter was reading 10.9-11.0v. It quickly jumped back up to 12.4v within a couple seconds.
Since I had the new toy to play with, I tested my motorcycle, Xterra, and the neighbors Tacoma.....lol All checked out good
I ran to harbor freight and bought their 100amp load tester. It was on sale for 19.99 from their normal 29.99. I also had a 20% off coupon and a coupon for a free flashlight, so it was worth the trip.
- With the engine running, the tester showed 13.9v(which is what my gauge was showing).
- With the ASD and fuel pump fuses removed, the tester showed a low of 11.2v while cranking the engine for 8 seconds. It quickly jumped back to 12.5v after turning the key off.
- After the starting test, the battery was at 12.5v before starting the load test. The instructions said to hold the load for at least 5 seconds, so I went 10 seconds. Right before I released the load the meter was reading 10.9-11.0v. It quickly jumped back up to 12.4v within a couple seconds.
Since I had the new toy to play with, I tested my motorcycle, Xterra, and the neighbors Tacoma.....lol All checked out good
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Oh I thought it wasn't starting... Then that changes everything... Bad connections somewhere... Like on the starter or the battery.
You are good to go...
You are good to go...
I do appreciate everyone suggestions and comments. I got way more help on this forum than I did my car specific forum I frequent.
why do you say that?
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you fixed it with one of these you'll have issues again in about six months.
That's the connector I had on my 1985 Dodge Caravan and it lasted 20 years without issue... I'm not sure why you say that...
If you fixed it with one of these you'll have issues again in about six months.
That's the connector I had on my 1985 Dodge Caravan and it lasted 20 years without issue... I'm not sure why you say that...
I installed one similar to that one. mine has a bolt to botl the wires onto it, instead of pinching the wires to it
like this one:
like this one:
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