Dodge Cummins G56 shifting

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So recently I installed Chevron ATF+4 in my trans as it is about one third the cost of a more expensive alternative...biggest difference is that it is a little notchy for the first few [censored] early in the morning. I inquired at the Dodge dealer I go to (who I trust, and is quite reliable). Dodge dealer mentioned to put in some of the diff additive (the friction modifier). I am concerned that it may interfere with the soft metals (that MAY be found in my trans). I spoke with the shop foreman today and he spoke with the Dodge Tech who said it was OK, and that it wasn't going to cause any issues.... So I just want to know is it OK to add the friction modifier to my G56 trans (which normally takes ATF+4), and is it going to cause any issue down the road (manual trans and soft metal compatibility). The G56 is a decent trans to shift, but is a little notchy in the mornings...does that stuff contain any nastiness?
 
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ATF+4 already has a friction modifier. Why add an additional? Live with the notchiness or try another fluid, like RP Sychromax, Redline C+, Amsoil ATF or.... BTW, one of the reasons why I always mention to use the least amount of LSD additive in rearends is that I've personally have seen more wear collected on magnets of 'ends suffering from 'blind' overdosing. I wouldn't add ANY additive to the ATF for your manual.
 

D-Roc

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I think biggest thing I am concerned with is the difference with regards to GL4 and GL5 corssover... I don't want to turn my ATF+4 into a GL5 fluid.
 
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I think friction modifier is Dodges answer for all their manual trannys. My T-850 called for atf+4 and 6oz of friction modifier, but as soon as the warranty was up I switched to a MTF and never looked back.
 
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I doubt the FM will help much, but I have zero idea what this FM actually is....if it's just the stuff for LS, then I fail to see how it will help*, but for sure it won't turn the fluid into GL-5 nor will it harm yellow metals. * That said there is something tickling my memory bone about some MT and FM additive....
 

D-Roc

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I tried MTF and it was dismal cold...great hot. I'm looking for something that covers all the bases. I've tried Redline C+ATF, Amsoil ATF, Amsoil MTF, RP Synchromax (the best of all I have tried, but terribly expensive) Biggest thing is just that cold notchiness...it was about 44 the other night and I could tell that it (notchiness) was there this morning. I've thought about mixing- trying 4 quarts of Amsoil ATF (for the low temp, and then two quarts of MTF) to see if that gives me the performance (6 quarts total in my trany) I am looking for...I just get tired of spending upwards of 20 dollars a quart for fluid. But maybe that is what has to be done here ... I'm not brand loyal at this point- I just want the best performance for price. I thought the FM in the trany would give that little bit I needed. Great replies all...
 
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Since you seem to be maintaining the fluid at some interval having tried all those ATFs/MTFs, I would give the additive a try maybe a month or so prior to your next maintenance interval. How many miles? what OCI are you using that you've tried all those fluids? If RP was the best, stick with it. RP is my preferred ATF substitute for gearboxs, transfer cases, and 'ends. Try a weighted shift knob. Don't forget that it is a truck transmission. For most shifting issues: When you're at the bar, skip the cocktails and drink some beer. These three devices have solved many shifter issues: http://www.faqs.org/photo-dict/photofiles/list/4482/5949hand_exercise_grip.jpg http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/bigfit_2067_71667063 http://www.isteroids.com/images/anabolic_steroids.jpg
 

D-Roc

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 Originally Posted By: unDummy
Since you seem to be maintaining the fluid at some interval having tried all those ATFs/MTFs, I would give the additive a try maybe a month or so prior to your next maintenance interval. How many miles? what OCI are you using that you've tried all those fluids? If RP was the best, stick with it. RP is my preferred ATF substitute for gearboxs, transfer cases, and 'ends. Try a weighted shift knob. Don't forget that it is a truck transmission. For most shifting issues: When you're at the bar, skip the cocktails and drink some beer. These three devices have solved many shifter issues: http://www.faqs.org/photo-dict/photofiles/list/4482/5949hand_exercise_grip.jpg http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/bigfit_2067_71667063 http://www.isteroids.com/images/anabolic_steroids.jpg
I've had at least 20 000 miles on each of those fluids that I mentioned...Some were in a little longer than the other (time wise), but I got a decent run on each. The MTF was in for two days, I guess trying something different didn't work that time. I liked the RPS as well, but it is definitely cost prohibitive. I will give the additive a try. Who knows? Maybe it might just give me a little bit better shifting on those cold morning first shifts
 
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 Originally Posted By: D-Roc
I think biggest thing I am concerned with is the difference with regards to GL4 and GL5 corssover... I don't want to turn my ATF+4 into a GL5 fluid.
Limited slip differential additive is a friction modifier so the limited slip wet clutch discs slip smoothly instead of grabbing. GL-5 gears oils are made for hypoid gears where the plane of the input shaft is different from the plane of the output shafts. There is a lot of sliding of the gear teeth and a suitable antiwear additive must be present in the oil. I know of no additive to home-brew GL-5. Old GL-5 additives were harmful to yellow metals (brass, bronze). Modern GL-5 additives do not harm yellow metals. GL-4 doesn't handle the sliding of the hypoid gear teeth, and the additives to reach the GL-4 qualification don't eat yellow metals.
 
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