Do you think I got G-05?

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dsmith41

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My fiancee's Impala needed a coolant flush ASAP and I didn't have time to do it myself. So, I broke one of my cardinal rules and I took the car to the local quick lube, a Valvoline shop. I told them I did not want Dex-cool put back in there and the guy told me they used some yellow stuff. I asked if it was a G-05 product and he didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Not surprising.
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Since it was a Valvoline shop and the coolant they put in was yellow, I just assumed they used Zerex G-05. Is that a safe assumption? Are there any other yellow coolants out there that are not G-05?
 
PEAK coolants are yellow. Both the Peak GLOBAL and Peak Extended-Life.

I also think Supertech All-Makes is yellow.

Someone needs to standardize the colors or just make it known that color means squat when it comes to coolant types.
 
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It sounds like you got one of the dexclone all makes which are yellow. G-05 tends to look more clear in color.
 
I seriously doubt any quick lube place would have real G-05. They usually just have a cheap bulk "universal" fluid.

I recently just flushed out my system. Found Zerex at my local Napa and did about 50/50 coolant/distilled water. Easy enough!

The Zerex G-05 is a very pale yellow and smells much different than the typical green stuff! (Yes, I do sniff it!) The Prestone and other green coolants have a strong, pungent smell to to them, while the G-05 smells more like chlorine.
 
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I looked at the receipt and it says I got AFCGold coolant, whatever that is. He told me it was less corrosive than Dex-cool.

I'm not too happy because the car is acting up again. The original problem was that the low coolant light kept coming on and the car was running warm. I was planning on doing a flush anyway because I knew it was due. They told me there was an air bubble in the system and that they flushed a total of 16 quarts through the system to get it cleaned.

It has been 3 days I think and now she is telling me the low coolant light is coming on again. There can't be a leak because if it was loosing that much coolant there would surely be a puddle under the car. I know these cars do have issues with leaky intake manifold gaskets but I got a used oil analysis done back in April and no coolant showed up. Potassium was at 9 ppm (only 2ppm above the universal avg) and sodium was at 7 ppm (13ppm below the universal avg). I'm leaving now to go look at it so we'll see...

I hate this car.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
GO-5 is clear


I'd call it more of a gold or pale honey color. Or lite beer color, maybe
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: daman
GO-5 is clear


I'd call it more of a gold or pale honey color. Or lite beer color, maybe
wink.gif



Not my ZEREX GO5 i dont think so, IMO i'ts almostly clear,but yea what ever..
 
One thing that might help you on this application is to install a new stant 10230 pressure cap with a spring center. It works better than the drop center type.
 
If it's a Valvoline Instant Oil Change the yellow/clear coolant is GO-5. I would get/loan-a-tool a coolant pressure tester, pump it up, & see if you have an internal leak (might be LIM gasket time).
 
The low coolant light cold just be because the sensor in the radiator is covered in old Dex sludge. It likely needs replaced. The overheating could be that it needs air bled out (top of thermostat housing) or needs a new stat.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Time to repost this coolant chart: http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/Coolants_matrix.pdf



I've looked at that thing a hundred times, and this is the first time I've ever noticed that it claims that Mopar G-05 if phosphate-free, but Zerex and Motorcraft G-05s are not.

I'm suspicious of that.

Its also getting a little outdated- lots of newer coolants aren't represented at all there.
 
There are a few other errors in it like I'm pretty sure Shellzone doesn't use borate. So who knows how accurate it is? Also it is geared to HD coolants and doesn't really focus on automobile coolants. The chart's interesting but is actually pretty vague and of limited use, as if there's only 2eha and other OATs. It's not that simple because other OATs can have many of the same properties, good and bad, of 2eha.
 
I just replaced the t-stat and bleed the system tonight and its still overheating. I am about out of ideas except thinking maybe the water pump is gone. I'll look into it tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: dsmith41
I just replaced the t-stat and bleed the system tonight and its still overheating. I am about out of ideas except thinking maybe the water pump is gone. I'll look into it tomorrow.


Are you running it with the heater on max till the top hose is hot and T-stat opens. It sometimes can take 1-20 mins for all the air to purge out. When you say its running hot is it just the temperature guage or is it boiling over?
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx

Are you running it with the heater on max till the top hose is hot and T-stat opens. It sometimes can take 1-20 mins for all the air to purge out. When you say its running hot is it just the temperature guage or is it boiling over?


I have only been running the heater when the needle gets near the top on the temp gauge in an effort to cool it off a little.

And from what I have seen in the overflow coolant reservoir, it is not boiling. It's just running hotter than usual according to the gauge.

Tonight I put a new radiator cap on it and it seems to be running a little cooler according to the gauge. I when out on the highway and and slower backroads and the highest it got the 7th tick mark or I think about 224 degrees. The outside temp was 85 degrees.

Yesterday it got up to about 236 and 248 degrees is the start of the redline on the temp gauge.
 
Not sure what the low coolant light is all about if it really isn't low on coolant. Unless the water pump is leaking then I doubt that is the problem either.

Could be a clogged radiator. Maybe the coolant is not circulating good enough which could cause it to run hot or warmer than usual. I would have tried the thermostat first also but after everything you said it sure does sound like a clogged radiator to me. I could be wrong but I just don't see what else it could be if you have changed the thermostat.
 
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