Do you guys do anything to prepare your vehicle for winter?

Put the UHP summer tyres and their wheels in the basement, and put something snow capable on. This year I swapped the battery as it was only mediocre and I will also make sure the window washer fluid is topped off.

After winter I will change the wipers, the current ones leave a pinstripe right now, but don't want to damage new wipers on ice.
 
I don't do anything special. Most of my PM, including checking tire pressures, fluids, oil, tire rotations, other upkeep, etc. are all weekly, monthly, semi-annual, to mileage-based maintenance anyway. I don't have many season-based maintenance items, except as listed below.

I swap out the AS --> winter tire setup just prior to the first real storm. I didn't put my winters on EITHER vehicle last year...

I only add things like blankets and other extras if I'm going on a long enough trip. That's no different than packing extras for any season.

What about replacing the battery if it's, say, 3-4 years old?

I charge my battery with a smart charger or DC power supply weekly to bi-weekly, so there's no real concern there.

I have a small jump-pack in each car, as well as USAA roadside assistance. I replace batteries when they're well maintained AND are still slow to start or fail to start.
 
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Park my 95 and put the Ranger to work for the winter (heaters works much better) and just wash it and put a good paint sealant on it. I do run into ice on the windshield almost every morning in Jan/feb so a scraper and Preston deicer in the fluid reservoir. Hit the door seals already with silicone and oil and filter were done last month so I am winter prepped.
 
I have been watching some videos of "Watch Wes Work" on youtube, and some of that rust is just horrible.
Makes me glad I don't live up north.
Same for this thread, I am with the other southerners, I just keep driving.
 
I have been watching some videos of "Watch Wes Work" on youtube, and some of that rust is just horrible.
Makes me glad I don't live up north.
Same for this thread, I am with the other southerners, I just keep driving.
I dunno, this past weekend it hit about 75F and I realized I was ready for winter--it felt too darn hot to work outside. This morning it was 40F and I was quite comfy doing yardwork. Anyhow, unless if it's snowing really bad, I just keep driving too. Although sometimes I'll do the speed limit if it's real bad though.

Sometimes I think about moving south but then I read about how some need AWD for when it rains, and I think, geez, that's gotta be quite bad weather right there.
 
Check antifreeze, put on winter tires, get survival kit in the vehicle. I used to time oil changes between seasons. No longer a problem. I have the dealership service the vehicle.
 
Fluid film. I like to use 4-5 cans a vehicle. I use the spray can extension hose. Shoot it into any holes I can find in the frame or rockers. Go crazy with it! I don't actually spray it on the surfaces of things, as I feel it will get washed off or rubbed off. I like it for places I can't wash and places it'll just creep and soak for months. I touchup any surface rust with just paint where I see it.
Also put the ski racks on the Jeeps.

Question on the fluid film and related products since I see it mentioned a lot.

I've been getting under my vehicles and doing anti-rust work for years in the fall. I've used all kinds of products and still have many cans of different things that I use in different places.

Based on what I've observed as the years go by on various vehicles since 2003 or so (all German) has lead me to avoid products like Rust Check and Krown because they stay sticky. They get everywhere, attract salt dust, dirt, grime and gravel and hold it everywhere, even places you can't see. This salt is kept around near wells, welds and cavities to be reactivated with water and heat. When it gets warm the "protection" starts migrating and dripping all over again. Sure, the anti-rust product should still be there, but from April-November wouldn't clean and dry be better?

Generally on these vehicles there's a lot of aluminum, galvanized steel, lots of seam sealers and all that. I've found the plastic covers don't help as much as people may think. They keep low speed salt spray and some gravel out, but salt dust and interstate-speed brine spray still get under the covers, and then they present a cleaning problem. It gets everywhere, and under car wash sprays, unless you first remove every plastic tray, don't clean it off. I don't have as much time, equipment, or fancy-pants shop space with floor drains as I might like, so a good, covers-removed, WARM water undercarriage wash (because 34F water from the tap in March isn't going to have much cleaning action) still isn't something I can realistically pull off as much as I'd love to.

Despite the underneath of the car being almost solid covers until around the rear diff (random Internet pic linked below), the engine, transfer case, transmission up to close to the top all show evidence of salt exposure on the aluminum. Mind you, this F10 is 9 years old, driven year round, and is the best condition of anything it's age so far, so things are getting better (and increasingly aluminum).

So back to Fluid Film - does it set up, or does it stay gooey? I had most of the under trays off of my BMW F10 this weekend trying to change the transfer case fluid (only to discover I need a special wrench to access the plug properly - I digress) but I was also doing some undercarriage protection. I did find one seam, generally covered by multiple covers, that has a tiny bit of edge rust because the sealer was thin in that spot. Since there are covers, I cleaned it, wire brushed it a little, and applied KBS Cavity coating which is supposed to creep and then set up to something "dry" that won't attract future dirt.

What other "creep then dry" products are out there that are sold retail and are liked?

22479063413_65c3baab54_b.jpg
 
Question on the fluid film and related products since I see it mentioned a lot.

I've been getting under my vehicles and doing anti-rust work for years in the fall. I've used all kinds of products and still have many cans of different things that I use in different places.

Based on what I've observed as the years go by on various vehicles since 2003 or so (all German) has lead me to avoid products like Rust Check and Krown because they stay sticky. They get everywhere, attract salt dust, dirt, grime and gravel and hold it everywhere, even places you can't see. This salt is kept around near wells, welds and cavities to be reactivated with water and heat. When it gets warm the "protection" starts migrating and dripping all over again. Sure, the anti-rust product should still be there, but from April-November wouldn't clean and dry be better?

Generally on these vehicles there's a lot of aluminum, galvanized steel, lots of seam sealers and all that. I've found the plastic covers don't help as much as people may think. They keep low speed salt spray and some gravel out, but salt dust and interstate-speed brine spray still get under the covers, and then they present a cleaning problem. It gets everywhere, and under car wash sprays, unless you first remove every plastic tray, don't clean it off. I don't have as much time, equipment, or fancy-pants shop space with floor drains as I might like, so a good, covers-removed, WARM water undercarriage wash (because 34F water from the tap in March isn't going to have much cleaning action) still isn't something I can realistically pull off as much as I'd love to.

Despite the underneath of the car being almost solid covers until around the rear diff (random Internet pic linked below), the engine, transfer case, transmission up to close to the top all show evidence of salt exposure on the aluminum. Mind you, this F10 is 9 years old, driven year round, and is the best condition of anything it's age so far, so things are getting better (and increasingly aluminum).

So back to Fluid Film - does it set up, or does it stay gooey? I had most of the under trays off of my BMW F10 this weekend trying to change the transfer case fluid (only to discover I need a special wrench to access the plug properly - I digress) but I was also doing some undercarriage protection. I did find one seam, generally covered by multiple covers, that has a tiny bit of edge rust because the sealer was thin in that spot. Since there are covers, I cleaned it, wire brushed it a little, and applied KBS Cavity coating which is supposed to creep and then set up to something "dry" that won't attract future dirt.

What other "creep then dry" products are out there that are sold retail and are liked?

22479063413_65c3baab54_b.jpg

I believe in the oily stuff (Fluid Film specifically) - stuff might stick to it, but the key is to reapply it and that prevents it from causing issues. The issue is when you apply a product once and never do it again. That's when you get major rust. But I compare the doors on my 05 Liberty to others - mine are completely rust free while most others I see around town have fist sized holes in them. The issue with waxy stuff that dries is that it's not self healing and can create spots where stuff can build up and create rust. It's just like rubberized undercoating - it traps moisture and doesn't repel it. Fluid Film is good since it's always creeping around and getting into all the cracks and crevices it can find, as well as repelling moisture. I don't know a lot about Krown or others, but I like Fluid Film a lot. I don't think it's the product for just spraying underneath everywhere, for that I prefer to paint spots that show surface rust. But for rockers, doors, frame rails etc Fluid film seems like one of the best ways to protect them. I apply annually, but might start to do it twice a year. Regarding your comment of April-November, that's actually when the rust spreads the worst....temps and humidity are up, so that is when you need to most rust protection. Fluid film stops any active rust, so having everything clean and dry, if there's rust, will just allow it to spread. If you look at a vehicle, say in northern Minnesota vs the Colorado Rockies, the winter climates aren't real different. They both use mag choride. Similar snow amounts. But the Colorado one will have far less rust - it's the humidity and warm temps in the summer that cause the bad rust. So that's the time to make sure you have good protection. Keeping things clean and dry works until rust starts somewhere.
 
Actually not too much prep on my part. I wash and apply a LSPI before the weather sets in. I will apply Gummi Pflege to all the seals. If the wipers are getting on in use I might replace them.
 
Winter tires.
Oil undercoating.
Caddy parked for the winter. (Parked early this year due to a bad fuel tank.)
 
On the B3000
Change oil to Supertech synthetic. NHOU undercoat. Switch wheels/tires/lug nuts to steel rims with Yokohama ice/snow tires and steel lug nuts. With Never Seize on threads. Lube door gaskets with Sly Glide. Fill washer tank with -20 fluid. Pump bottle of de-icer, ice scraper, snow brush in cab. Keep an extra jacket with gloves and hat in the cab. Wait for spring to take out the toys.
 
Keeping things clean and dry works until rust starts somewhere.

I hear that, I just hate driving around in a car that's like a whole-vehicle oil leak. Every cavity you open - oily goo. Beside the battery - goo. Working on the shock tower - gravel, sand and salt stuck in goo... Even worse is when the formulation of the goo attacks rubber and plastic because it's oil based.

After I wrote my first post, I was thinking about how dry/rubber coatings are worse if they are compromised and not self-healing. Then there's even worse damage going on where you can't see it.

An important distinction - rust spreads fastest in the summer only if there's corrosion-promoting conditions. Salt is hygroscopic. Salty, muddy, grit continually attracts moisture out of the summer air all year long, keep that area moist and salty. If it's CLEAN - it's not just going to rust. It probably won't rust if it's embedded in a gooey layer of Fluid Film either, but then there's a gooey gritty layer of Fluid Film everywhere...

The ultimate would be to have a lift, floor drain, power washer with warm water supply. Every spring remove all the under trays, put it up in the air, foam cannon the under carriage with a mix of soap/APC and Salt-Away, soak, power wash off... I have a QuickJack, no floor drain, and cold water supply only - not quite the same LOL.

An interesting watch - Amsoil MP HD and Amsoil MP are in my pile of options. https://youtu.be/oXlhmbvdKBo
 
I hear that, I just hate driving around in a car that's like a whole-vehicle oil leak. Every cavity you open - oily goo. Beside the battery - goo. Working on the shock tower - gravel, sand and salt stuck in goo... Even worse is when the formulation of the goo attacks rubber and plastic because it's oil based.

After I wrote my first post, I was thinking about how dry/rubber coatings are worse if they are compromised and not self-healing. Then there's even worse damage going on where you can't see it.

An important distinction - rust spreads fastest in the summer only if there's corrosion-promoting conditions. Salt is hygroscopic. Salty, muddy, grit continually attracts moisture out of the summer air all year long, keep that area moist and salty. If it's CLEAN - it's not just going to rust. It probably won't rust if it's embedded in a gooey layer of Fluid Film either, but then there's a gooey gritty layer of Fluid Film everywhere...

The ultimate would be to have a lift, floor drain, power washer with warm water supply. Every spring remove all the under trays, put it up in the air, foam cannon the under carriage with a mix of soap/APC and Salt-Away, soak, power wash off... I have a QuickJack, no floor drain, and cold water supply only - not quite the same LOL.

An interesting watch - Amsoil MP HD and Amsoil MP are in my pile of options. https://youtu.be/oXlhmbvdKBo
I hear ya! I'm going to try that salt away this year. I don't like the oily mess everywhere - that's why I just put FF where I can't rinse (frame rails, rockers inside, etc). I don't coat the whole undercarriage with it, that's what paint is for. It doesn't make a mess this way.... it's not like you're going to work inside the rockers or frame rails lol. I agree completely that if things are clean, they won't rust. But I think it's unrealistic to keep a DD 100% clean - you will have salt and dirt reach somewhere you can't clean. And FF will creep there and makes sure rust won't form.
 
The only thing I do is switch over to the winter formula windshield washer fluid and I try to get a full detail done before the first cold snap. I also live in Texas so there really isn’t much winter prep my cars have to go through.
 
Just dropped off two of my winter wheels to be straightened and have new Blizzaks installed. One of the tires has a weird cut around the whole tire that looks like tread separation... can't have that! I'm excited to have the wheels straightened out. Our lack of decent pavement kills cars.

For some reason I end up doing a lot of work in the dead of winter. My garage is powered by an extension cord and is falling over. (New 24x24 garage coming spring 2021!) This past January I changed my struts, valve cover gasket, two fuel injectors, and a bunch of electrical work. The temp was about 5f.

I wish I had read about the rust products. My 2007 BMW still has no rust, and I don't have problems with fasteners. It's decently engineered. But my other half's 2014 Focus is designed and built to be junk. It's rusting the way I remember cars in the 70s rusting when I was a kid. The trunk lid has holes in it, and the subframe is seriously rusting because Ford thought it would be cool to keep the salt-soaked undertray tight against the steel subframe. Surprise, it's rusting. Engineering stupidity.
 
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