Wash my door shuts every 3 months and hit all the hinges and mechnisims with Bilt Hamber Ferrosol afterwards.
Real hinges, like on MB cars, do have fittings.If the "engineers" ever had the light bulb go off, to put Zirk fittings on car door hinges, I would grease them. But until they think of it, (I'm not holding my breath), I'll have to be content to spray whatever lube on them.
Then watch as the giant dirt spot forms all around the interior of the door hinge, from all of the dust and dirt that sticks to the over spray.
Disagree for this application, unless talking about a dune buggy or other vehicle kicking up a lot of sand. Even then, if it's a beach and kicking up saltwater too, you're probably still better off with caked on sand, than increased saltwater exposure too.Grease attracts dirt. Eventually that grit will grind between the metal surfaces.
What bronze bushing? It's typically steel on steel or a plastic bushing, and a loose enough fit that oil is not a sufficient film thickness. I mean oil will work, but not as well and will need applied multiple times as often.Real hinges, like on MB cars, do have fittings.
Domestic vehicles with a hinge pin just need a drop of oil in the bronze bushing.
That would be true in a ideal clean environment. Unless the area is always kept washed, I never seen clean hinges or door jams before. A spray lubricant is better for this application.Disagree for this application, unless talking about a dune buggy or other vehicle kicking up a lot of sand. Even then, if it's a beach and kicking up saltwater too, you're probably still better off with caked on sand, than increased saltwater exposure too.
Grease protects better against wear, more so than a thin oil or dry lube, far more than the attracted dirt causes wear. This is because it is a slow moving, intermittent mechanism, which is further benefited by the thick grease film to reduce corrosion.
Anything susceptible to wear issues from ambient grime in "expected" operating conditions, should have a sealed bearing or boot.
The primary reason that manufacturer put minimal grease or oil on these mechanisms from the factory is that it looks cleaner, and only has to outlast the warranty. Many mechanical failures could have been delayed with more, and more timely application of grease, especially the door hinges and latch springs.
Yep, didn't lubricate the hood latch on the Scion for 15 years and in the last 2 when it started to get a little stiff I sprayed it with lithium. Now its completely black with dirt and feels stiff again. I think I'll power wash it thoroughly and try dry lube....which kind do you recommend?Grease attracts dirt. I'd try a dry lube first if there's a squeak.
Both my Ram trucks have a bronze bushing that goes in the hole, then the pin is held in with a Jesus clip. My S-10 Ive never changed but looks very similar.What bronze bushing? It's typically steel on steel or a plastic bushing, and a loose enough fit that oil is not a sufficient film thickness. I mean oil will work, but not as well and will need applied multiple times as often.
So what you're really saying is you should have greased it properly all along but waited until it had excessive wear, then it was too late, or just needs cleaned and greased again.Yep, didn't lubricate the hood latch on the Scion for 15 years and in the last 2 when it started to get a little stiff I sprayed it with lithium. Now its completely black with dirt and feels stiff again. I think I'll power wash it thoroughly and try dry lube....which kind do you recommend?
It's true in all but very few of the most extreme environments.That would be true in a ideal clean environment. Unless the area is always kept washed, I never seen clean hinges or door jams before. A spray lubricant is better for this application.
IIRC there was a decent amount of yellowish grease from the factory and now that I think about it, the latch might have been sprayed once or twice when it went in the shop for tune ups but that was years ago. I actually think spraying with lithium before made it worse because it attracted contaminants which bound it up even more. I'll check the cable though, good point.So what you're really saying is you should have greased it properly all along but waited until it had excessive wear, then it was too late, or just needs cleaned and greased again.
Then again it might be cable drag rather than the latch or a combination of both. What it is not is "dirt", if there is sufficient lube, dirt will not bind something like that, if it's just a surface coat rather than some mudder truck with literally, mud jamming up the whole mechanism, not merely what stuck in some grease.
I like the dry spray lube that has teflon in it. Need to apply it several times though, letting the carrier flash off between sprays.Yep, didn't lubricate the hood latch on the Scion for 15 years and in the last 2 when it started to get a little stiff I sprayed it with lithium. Now its completely black with dirt and feels stiff again. I think I'll power wash it thoroughly and try dry lube....which kind do you recommend?
Your door check might be the issue, possibly worn out? Grease won’t slow a hinge down.White lithium always looks atrocious sprayed on hinges. I use 3 in 1 usually.
I have an Accord that the door closes way too easily on. It will hit you unexpectedly. Any suggestions on a lubricant that will slow it down?
Replace the door checkers.White lithium always looks atrocious sprayed on hinges. I use 3 in 1 usually.
I have an Accord that the door closes way too easily on. It will hit you unexpectedly. Any suggestions on a lubricant that will slow it down?