Do you drain your air compressor tank?

I once worked in a small Lathe / Milling shop. Had a big air compressor, bath tube size tank. Placed in the attic of the building, above the shop.
This was running for years... the boss dont belived in Maintanance.
One day, Water cames out of the air guns. No Kidding.

Turns out, the whole Compressor Tank was FULL with water! The funny thing was to empty it. Hauling a big floor jack and a big pan the steep stairs up under the attic, then jack the compressor up so you can slide the pan under it, let water flow in the pan, when full, pull the pan out, empty the pan with buckets, going downstairs and empty the buckets, repeat many times.

Great fun.
grin.gif

Idiots. Connect a hose and use air pressure to push the water up and out....
 
Rusty compressor tanks? Yes it makes a person wonder if we are still in the 1920's or when ever the first air compressor was used.
There is no excuse any of us should ever have a rusty tank on any decent commercial type air compressor, since we do pay a bit of $ for them.
There has to be some modern coating that could be applied in those tanks that will stop any chance of rusting out.
I really don't understand why air compressor tanks and hot water tanks would rust out in these modern times. Unless the stuff is made to fail !
 
When I was working in the field we would pipe the compressor condensate lines, usually 3/4"-1" copper pipe, with an in line solenoid valve. The control guys would come behind us and wire them in.
 
I bought a new Quincy compressor and I would crack the water drain valve open for a few seconds every few days thinking that was enough to get the water out. Then I discovered I can go back 30 minutes later and get more water out each time without the pump still not turned on. I wonder if I need to just drain the tank completly after every use. Although an empty air compressor imo doesn't do much good. Imo constantly draining the water will rust the tank faster because rust only occurs where their is air. If that one area of the tank always has a little bit of water at the bottom it won't rust as much imo.
I use a ball valve with an extension and just lightly crack it in the AM for a few seconds or so or until nothing comes out. I use mine a lot for painting so a tank full of hot air that needs to be cooled from a full drain is not desirable at all.
The first shop I worked at in the mid 70's had a late 1930's large Saylor-Beall compressor that got drained this was since new and still passed its tank test after almost 40 years.

Compressors like the larger Quincy, Champion, Rolair, Saylor-Beall, FS-Curtis, Jenny, etc use very heavy tanks, there is no need to fully drain them every day or after every use, the only you are doing is wearing and shortenintg the life of the power head. No name small tinker toy compressors are crap anyway with thin little tanks, poor piston rings in comparison so draining them may have some merit.
 
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Both of my compressors are vertical (60 & 80 gallon). Before I put them into service I installed an elbow, an extension 6-8" , and finally a ball valve at the end where it is easy to get to. Simple task to drain daily. The vibration mounts help with accessibility at the bottom of the tank.
 
I use a ball valve with an extension and just lightly crack it in the AM for a few seconds or so or until nothing comes out. I use mine a lot for painting so a tank full of hot air that needs to be cooled from a full drain is not desirable at all.
The first shop I worked at in the mid 70's had a late 1930's large Saylor-Beall compressor that got drained this was since new and still passed its tank test after almost 40 years.

Compressors like the larger Quincy, Champion, Rolair, Saylor-Beall, FS-Curtis, Jenny, etc use very heavy tanks, there is no need to fully drain them every day or after every use, the only you are doing is wearing and shortenintg the life of the power head. No name small tinker toy compressors are crap anyway with thin little tanks, poor piston rings in comparison so draining them may have some merit.
If the tank is used as a wet storage tank and most home compressors are the tank should be drained daily or after use no matter what MFG of the tank is.
 
I bought a 25ft husky 1/4" see through hose and attached it to mine. I routed it to the sink and just hit the ball valve for about 10 seconds usually the next day when the tank cooled down. It's the smaller diameter air hose that the painters like to use.
 
What do you mean a wet storage tank?
Generally a home use compressor the pump is filling the tank water is be condensed when cooling in tank and needs to be drained. Many businesses that use air daily setups will use wet and dry storage tank. Dry storage tank will be downstream of a air dryer in the system
 
I bought a new Quincy compressor and I would crack the water drain valve open for a few seconds every few days thinking that was enough to get the water out. Then I discovered I can go back 30 minutes later and get more water out each time without the pump still not turned on. I wonder if I need to just drain the tank completly after every use. Although an empty air compressor imo doesn't do much good. Imo constantly draining the water will rust the tank faster because rust only occurs where their is air. If that one area of the tank always has a little bit of water at the bottom it won't rust as much imo.
I drain it after every use. A rusty compressor tank is nothing that you want to mess with. Its basically a bomb waiting to go off.
 
If the tank is used as a wet storage tank and most home compressors are the tank should be drained daily or after use no matter what MFG of the tank is.
You reply is obscure, did you mean fully drained empty or cracked open to let the water out? Please show some documentation on this. I see tanks over 30 years old that have never been 100% drained just moisture drained off after sitting overnight. In fact Quincy and others offer a zero loss drain. Why would they offer these types of drains if fully draining the tank is the only or correct way?

Types of Drain Valves​


Examples of the many types of air compressor drain valves include:


  • Float-operated: This valve allows water to flow into a special housing. When the water inside the tank reaches a predetermined level, a float triggers the drain’s opening and lets the excess water drain out.
  • Timer-controlled: A timer-controlled valve opens and closes at pre-set intervals. This type of system is ideal for highly regulated operating environments.
  • Zero-loss: This type of drain valve contains a sensor probe that monitors water accumulation inside the tank. When the water reaches a specified level, the probe delivers an electrical signal to a solenoid. The drain then opens, but the water flow stops before the release of compressed air.

 
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You reply is obscure, did you mean fully drained empty or cracked open to let the water out? Please show some documentation on this. I see tanks over 30 years old that have never been 100% drained just moisture drained off after sitting overnight. In fact Quincy and others offer a zero loss drain. Why would they offer these types of drains if fully draining the tank is the only or correct way?



Good grief you just crack the valve to drain the water and shut it. I never mentioned or recommend keeping a tank empty if not in use.
 
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Sorry for any misunderstanding, by drain I didnt know if you meant "drained" or just the water bled off.
All good I went back and should have written to just drain the water off and not just write it should be drained. I guess I should have been more clear on it
 
Seen a couple comments about draining their compressor after each use. You should drain it BEFORE use, when the air is cool and the water has condensed. Soon as the air warms up it while using it, it will vaporize the water left standing in the tank.
 
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