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- Nov 29, 2009
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Personally I think the frame of a vehicle will only stay straight for so long, hit so many pot holes, etc
Yeah but everything revolves around the chassis still being straight after 15 years and 250,000 miles. Doors closing properly, etcI don't believe things just "go out of alignment". Hitting a pot hole should not move anything. Parts wear out, need to be replaced, and then you need an alignment - to adjust for the new parts.
Possibly things wear somewhat and then an alignment might help - for some period of time, but your on borrowed time at that point because whatever caused things to move is just going to get worse.
IMHO.
I don't think a chassis "warps" does it?Yeah but everything revolves around the chassis still being straight after 15 years and 250,000 miles. Doors closing properly, etc
That absolutely happens.I don't believe things just "go out of alignment". Hitting a pot hole should not move anything.
So what exactly moves, that can then be corrected with an alignment?That absolutely happens.
This was another thread I was going to start. Lol I've never understood how it can be knocked out, and then put back into alignment without going back out again if that makes sense. I suppose if a tie rod gets bent, then that makes sense I supposeSo what exactly moves, that can then be corrected with an alignment?
Does the tie rod jump a thread, or the camber bolt move? Honest question.
I've never had an alignment check where it didn't need an adjustment of some sort and I do my best to not hit pot holes, don't jump curbs, etcI think it can happen, but normally doesn't. I have a had a fair amount of vehicles over my life, with very few alignments yet they all tracked straight, wore their tires evenly, etc. Replacing steering and suspenion components can change that of course, but in general a well made vehicle will stay true, IME.
Often the knuckle slips relative to the strut from the impact. So the bolt is tensioned, but the impact is enough to move knuckle into a new place.So what exactly moves, that can then be corrected with an alignment?
Does the tie rod jump a thread, or the camber bolt move? Honest question.
OK, fare enough. But that is only applicable with a Macpherson setup. An I don't think most mcpherson strut's come from the factory with Cam bolts anymore - do they? If your camber is out, the bolts need to be replaced with Cam bolts - so were back to worn parts again? Unless I am missing something.Often the knuckle slips relative to the strut from the impact. So the bolt is tensioned, but the impact is enough to move knuckle into a new place.
New camber from the slip also means new toe.
A trick for free negative camber is to loosen the strut clamp bolts and then retighten them with car sitting on the wheels, so I guess those could move a bit with a hard hit. On the Focus the strut end slides into the knuckle, so when I do struts I make sure the strut is all the way down, so its got no where to go on a pot hole hit.OK, fare enough. But that is only applicable with a Macpherson setup. An I don't think most mcpherson strut's come from the factory with Cam bolts anymore - do they? If your camber is out, the bolts need to be replaced with Cam bolts - so were back to worn parts again? Unless I am missing something.
I've had it where they didn't tighten the caster camber bolts quite enough and I'd hear a popping noise when braking hard. It was the bolts shifting, had them tighten them up more and it fixed the problem, although I don't recall if they realigned it. I don't think so, but the truck didn't pull, so I was like whatever. I've had a few instances where people haven't tightened things to spec on my truck. I believe the caliper mounting brackets are 150 ft lbs. I got into a pissing match once with a guy that tells me there is no way those bolts are supposed to be tighter than a head bolt on your engine.A trick for free negative camber is to loosen the strut clamp bolts and then retighten them with car sitting on the wheels, so I guess those could move a bit with a hard hit. On the Focus the strut end slides into the knuckle, so when I do struts I make sure the strut is all the way down, so its got no where to go on a pot hole hit.
Personally I think the frame of a vehicle will only stay straight for so long, hit so many pot holes, etc
As parts wear, alignment will gradually change. I wouldn't worry about the frame.Personally I think the frame of a vehicle will only stay straight for so long, hit so many pot holes, etc
I've seen more with adjustment than without.OK, fare enough. But that is only applicable with a Macpherson setup. An I don't think most mcpherson strut's come from the factory with Cam bolts anymore - do they? If your camber is out, the bolts need to be replaced with Cam bolts - so were back to worn parts again? Unless I am missing something.