Being race oils they are looking for shear stability.
At a guess
RL 50% ester
Motul 25%
Silkolene 20%
Amsoil 10-15%
Mobil 3-10%
At a guess
RL 50% ester
Motul 25%
Silkolene 20%
Amsoil 10-15%
Mobil 3-10%
Do synthetic oils have a superior film strength?
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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Dont forget about start up wear. This is were the engine wears the most from no oil seperation between the bearing and crankshaft itself. Doesnt take much to scar a bearing from a dry start.
You will see wear on the tops and bottoms usually the tops of any rod bearings from it starting and stoping just put tremendous load on the oil. The crankshaft doenst see nearly the loads the rod bearings see.
NO oil can protect with no oil pressure while the engine is being started. Film strength is alot more involved than just the oil itself.
Is the oil clean
oil bearing clearance
Oil pressure
oil temperature
engine temp
the list goes on
You will see wear on the tops and bottoms usually the tops of any rod bearings from it starting and stoping just put tremendous load on the oil. The crankshaft doenst see nearly the loads the rod bearings see.
NO oil can protect with no oil pressure while the engine is being started. Film strength is alot more involved than just the oil itself.
Is the oil clean
oil bearing clearance
Oil pressure
oil temperature
engine temp
the list goes on
A side note that I have on this subject. Could this ability of film strength be the reason that most of the more exclusive synthetic oils play with their additive packages so much. Some rely on moly, some boron, and others use huge doses of magnesium or calcium for the package.
Or is it just because there are so many ways to build a high quality oil these days?
Or is it just because there are so many ways to build a high quality oil these days?
For some reason I always had the impression that Motul 300V (and maybe even Silkolene as well) had a higher percentage ester base stock than Red Line. But this may have been from the way they market the product?
There are many ways to make a high quality oil. Some additives work better than others depending on the application. Thing is eveything works together in an oil. Bob made a great point the additives do most of the work we are worried about and thats mainly what a synthetic oil is. The synthetics use a High quality dino base oil of some type but the additives and the quality are what keep the oil stable at high temps.
Did you really mean to say that all synthetics use only high quality dino based oil? If so, not true. If not, ok then. It is true that additives play a huge role in all functions but not to the point that it makes basestocks even close to irrelevent.
JAG,
Providing that an engine has excellent oil pressure with the 10W-30, would it be fare to say that a good quality full synthetic 10W-30 would provide better protection than a dino 10W-40? A good comparison to me would be full synthetic Maxlife 10W-30 to regular GTX 10W-40 I presume.
Providing that an engine has excellent oil pressure with the 10W-30, would it be fare to say that a good quality full synthetic 10W-30 would provide better protection than a dino 10W-40? A good comparison to me would be full synthetic Maxlife 10W-30 to regular GTX 10W-40 I presume.
One difference between those oils will be how long each oil can be run while keeping the engine clean. Cleanliness ability should be considered one aspect of protection. Dirtyness over time can increase wear. As for wear protection assuming proper OCIs, the winner will probably come down to which has the additive package best at reducing wear in the particular engine. With many short trips: advantage to the 10W-30.
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