I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Do syncronizers wear out in manual trannies?
- Thread starter grampi
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Slightly off topic, when everyone here says "Toyota" when referring to the transmission, do you really mean Aisin? Or does Toyota have some other primary supplier?
Originally Posted By: grampi
When you say the GL-5 is too slippery for the syncros, what exactly does that mean? One would think the more slippery the lube the better.
That statement is incorrect, but may be an effort to generalize a slightly complex topic?
If your transmission calls for a GL-5, then the only thing I know of presently in production and reasonably widely available that is built for synchronized manual transmissions that meets GL-5 is Red Line's 75W90NS (not their MT-90).
Having said that, I suspect that the MT-90 and the Amsoil fluid mentioned will work just fine. Frankly, if you just switch out to a non-'synthetic' 80W90 it'll probably shift better.
When you say the GL-5 is too slippery for the syncros, what exactly does that mean? One would think the more slippery the lube the better.
That statement is incorrect, but may be an effort to generalize a slightly complex topic?
If your transmission calls for a GL-5, then the only thing I know of presently in production and reasonably widely available that is built for synchronized manual transmissions that meets GL-5 is Red Line's 75W90NS (not their MT-90).
Having said that, I suspect that the MT-90 and the Amsoil fluid mentioned will work just fine. Frankly, if you just switch out to a non-'synthetic' 80W90 it'll probably shift better.
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Drive it like ya stole it!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry guys I'm still learning about this my self, so too slippery is about all I heard. But I have also heard about the GL-5 having the different additives in it that can wear on the yellow metals more. I don't know what your manual says but mine says GL-4 or GL-5. And nobody on this other toyota truck forum will use GL-5 only GL-4, with the main two being amsoil 75w90 manual transmission and transfer case lube or redline mt90.
RL 75W90NS for trans and 75W90 for diffs.
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Isn't slippage the indication of a worn clutch? I have no slippage. Reverse and 1st gears have been "notchy" the entire time I've owned this car. 2nd and 3rd gears never used to be notchy, but are becoming moreso.
I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Isn't slippage the indication of a worn clutch? I have no slippage. Reverse and 1st gears have been "notchy" the entire time I've owned this car. 2nd and 3rd gears never used to be notchy, but are becoming moreso.
This might apply to some vehicles, it did to mine. We had issues with two Fords over the years that were grinding going into Reverse, and difficult to downshift going into the lower gears. It took several years for the problems to show up. The grinding in Reverse is usually an easy fix, buy just shifting into 1St, then N, then into Reverse.
The downshifting into lower gears was driving me nuts, double clutching works, but.......... if everything is working normal its really not needed. What I stumbled upon was the floor/firewall area was flexing when the clutch petal was being pressed down. What that does is throws the whole geometry of the system out of whack for lack of a better term. In other words if the floor flexes the clutch will not fully release, hydraulic clutches included. We made sure the floor was in its normal position, beefed it up so it wouldn't flex and the problem was solved! Ford has a part for doing just what I mentioned I found out months later, for the E-Series Vans and F-Series PU's. If you are certain the system if properly bled, have a look for any movement in the floor when the clutch is pressed down, it should not move.
Vehicles with clutch cables could have a cable that is stretched causing the clutch not to fully release, they are different animals.
HTH
Frank D
The downshifting into lower gears was driving me nuts, double clutching works, but.......... if everything is working normal its really not needed. What I stumbled upon was the floor/firewall area was flexing when the clutch petal was being pressed down. What that does is throws the whole geometry of the system out of whack for lack of a better term. In other words if the floor flexes the clutch will not fully release, hydraulic clutches included. We made sure the floor was in its normal position, beefed it up so it wouldn't flex and the problem was solved! Ford has a part for doing just what I mentioned I found out months later, for the E-Series Vans and F-Series PU's. If you are certain the system if properly bled, have a look for any movement in the floor when the clutch is pressed down, it should not move.
Vehicles with clutch cables could have a cable that is stretched causing the clutch not to fully release, they are different animals.
HTH
Frank D
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Isn't slippage the indication of a worn clutch? I have no slippage. Reverse and 1st gears have been "notchy" the entire time I've owned this car. 2nd and 3rd gears never used to be notchy, but are becoming moreso.
worn clutches can have release problems before they begin slipping if it has a clutch cable it may help to adjust it.. how many miles are on your 10 yo car?
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Isn't slippage the indication of a worn clutch? I have no slippage. Reverse and 1st gears have been "notchy" the entire time I've owned this car. 2nd and 3rd gears never used to be notchy, but are becoming moreso.
worn clutches can have release problems before they begin slipping if it has a clutch cable it may help to adjust it.. how many miles are on your 10 yo car?
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Isn't slippage the indication of a worn clutch? I have no slippage. Reverse and 1st gears have been "notchy" the entire time I've owned this car. 2nd and 3rd gears never used to be notchy, but are becoming moreso.
worn clutches can have release problems before they begin slipping if it has a clutch cable it may help to adjust it.. how many miles are on your 10 yo car?
170K
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I think you need a clutch. Is it difficult to get into reverse as well as first?
Isn't slippage the indication of a worn clutch? I have no slippage. Reverse and 1st gears have been "notchy" the entire time I've owned this car. 2nd and 3rd gears never used to be notchy, but are becoming moreso.
worn clutches can have release problems before they begin slipping if it has a clutch cable it may help to adjust it.. how many miles are on your 10 yo car?
170K
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