Do New 2009 Cars With Cathodic Not Need Rustproof

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1993_VG30E_GXE

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A family member just bought a new 2009 Infiniti and the guy at the dealership said that "you don't need to get rustproofing anymore, we use cathodic protection instead". Is he talking out his [censored]

Is this true? Even living in salty wet winter slush conditions like Canada?
 
No, all sorts of things are painted that way. It's basically using static electricity, charging the paint and the metal, so it is attracted to the metal.

I would assume every car is painted this way. Our high school used it in 1997, it's not new by any means.

I don't know about the rustproofing, that isn't popular/available here so I see it as a myth but don't really know anything about it.
 
These don't work at all. Krown Rust control has done controlled tests showing that the consumer grade products don't work. Yes they are used for heavy duty equipment etc. but these systems are much more powerful.

I have one on my Santa Fe for "added benefit" if it worked but always intended to get my car rust proofed by Krown. Then I read the write up in the Toronto Star (Newspaper) and the controlled test Krown did that proved it didn't work.

Here: http://www.krown.com/faqs/COMPARATIVE TESTING OF ELECTRONIC2.pdf
 
I usually just undercoat the underside with rustoleum ruberized undercoating. It takes about 4-5 cans. I get them at AAP. The stuff really works well. Cost: $25 for he whole job. All the new cars I have bought both foreign & domestic never have any undercoating sprayed up around the shock towers. So that is the first spot I hit.
 
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Originally Posted By: 1993_VG30E_GXE
the guy at the dealership said


I usually discount what people at dealerships tell you when you buy a new car.
 
plenty of "experts" tell us that you dont need rustproofing - cars are built with galvanzized metal, special coatins, and they wont rust. it depends how long you keep your car. (and how well you maintain the body) keep it long enough and it will rust. and even galvanized metal will rust at bend points and weld points. I've gotten rid of four great running cars over the years because rust took over. my jeep comanche was my favorite. sniffle, sniffle
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
I usually just undercoat the underside with rustoleum ruberized undercoating. It takes about 4-5 cans. I get them at AAP. The stuff really works well. Cost: $25 for he whole job. All the new cars I have bought both foreign & domestic never have any undercoating sprayed up around the shock towers. So that is the first spot I hit.
The rubberized is actually worse than nothing at all. The Rubber coating will hold moisture in against the metal surfaces you applied it to and actually accelerate the problem.

The best thing to use is a thick oily coating spray and do the whole underneath of your vehicle. As well as all the door/body panels.

All these rust threads lately make me want to open shops across the rust belt of the U.S. I think I would make a killing!
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Krown Rust control has done controlled tests showing that the consumer grade products don't work.


My "consumer grade" used engine oil and an old paint brush work pretty well.
The price is right, too. Once in a while, I syringe some into all the inner panels and let gravity/wicking do it's thing. Not one spot of rust on my '89 Toyota.

Granted, I don't live in the salt belt.
 
Best to use is a non-detergent unused oil if you want to do that. Your used oil will contain solvents and acidic levels which might not be the best thing to use. I guess it's better than nothing and/or rubber-proofing.
 
The guy at the dealership was talking out of his heinie.

Steve, the rust threads from people who want to fix their rusty car show me that people here are full of hope but haven't yet felt the despair of time and how useless it is to fix rust on a car that continues to sees salt.

Many of the people who answer these threads show that they too have little experience on this matter.
 
The best thing to use is a thick oily coating spray and do the whole underneath of your vehicle. As well as all the door/body panels.

All these rust threads lately make me want to open shops across the rust belt of the U.S. I think I would make a killing![/quote]
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: PT1
I usually just undercoat the underside with rustoleum ruberized undercoating. It takes about 4-5 cans. I get them at AAP. The stuff really works well. Cost: $25 for he whole job. All the new cars I have bought both foreign & domestic never have any undercoating sprayed up around the shock towers. So that is the first spot I hit.
The rubberized is actually worse than nothing at all. The Rubber coating will hold moisture in against the metal surfaces you applied it to and actually accelerate the problem.

The best thing to use is a thick oily coating spray and do the whole underneath of your vehicle. As well as all the door/body panels.

All these rust threads lately make me want to open shops across the rust belt of the U.S. I think I would make a killing!


+1 The undercoating gets somewhat brittle over time and chips,water finds its way in under the undercoating and is trapped between the undercoat and the body.
Nice way to create a flintstone car.

Oil or oil/wax works best.
I am trying CorBan 22 now,normally for aviation but seems to have the right properties for under bodies and inner panels.

Right now in the process of rebuilding(not just patching) the inner and outer rocker panels on a 2000 Grand Prix.GM had the nice idea to place the sunroof drains right inside the panels.

I moved the drains out the back and flooded the panels with CorBan 22 after welding,the stuff sets up nice like a soft non hardening wax.CorBan claims its 4000 hrs salt water spray rated verses 1000 hrs for 3m Rust fighter.

From what i can see its not going to be very durable on the under body but time will tell.Maybe have to reapply in spring.
 
Offer a oil change and undercoating at the same time.. use the oil from the change and get a sprayer cheap and easy. If there's any acids in the oil at least the metal will be cleaned. Bushings and anything rubber may not care for it though.
 
The point of changing one's oil is to get it out before acids form. So the TBN is down; it still protects metal.

Something thicker seems better to me though.

The marine world has used sacrificial zinc bits (I think "anodes" though
wink.gif
) to keep the rest of the boat from corroding for years now. People keep trying to cross apply this to cars not floating in salt water...
 
Sacrificial zinc anodes only protect to a finite distance from the anode. Applying a voltage potential can increase this distance.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Best to use is a non-detergent unused oil if you want to do that. Your used oil will contain solvents and acidic levels which might not be the best thing to use. I guess it's better than nothing and/or rubber-proofing.


Technically, that may be true, but have you ever seen an area of a car that was gooey and greasy from an engine oil leak? If you take a rag and wipe the goop off, it's always bright, shiny metal / paint underneath. I've never seen used engine oil cause rust or corrosion.
 
So let's all try to reverse engineer Krown's award winning formula. Common, it can't be that hard to do?

I would prefer not to buy some branded rust proofing when we could mix our own in a bucket or barrel. All we are doing is paying a premium for someone with a stir stick and some ingredients right? I've heard that Rustcheck solution is WD-40 mixed with oil.
 
I believe Krown is similar to Fluid Film and Texaco Rustproof Compound. The Texaco compound is wool grease (lanolin) with 1-3% stearic acid.
 
You can make an awesome compound by melting sticks of paraffin into gently heated engine oil. When it cools, it's just like "Waxoil" compound that you buy. It dries thick and tacky. Use virgin engine oil if it makes you feel better. Don't waste your money on the commercial stuff.

"Bar and chain" oil for chain saws works great, too. It has a tacky ingredient added to it. It stays put instead of running and dripping.
 
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