Do I really need racing oil?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Do you have any data to support the idea that an HDEO would protect better in a higher revving, higher power per volume engine than a standard PCMO?

In our case no recorded or documented data, just real life experience of what worked well.

Full disclosure: Our use of HDEO only came about through sponsorship from a local parts store.

On track performance and off season tear downs revealed it worked very well in our application.
 
Originally Posted By: Dwane17
Do you have any data to support the idea that an HDEO would protect better in a higher revving, higher power per volume engine than a standard PCMO?

In our case no recorded or documented data, just real life experience of what worked well.

Full disclosure: Our use of HDEO only came about through sponsorship from a local parts store.

On track performance and off season tear downs revealed it worked very well in our application.




I agree that they can work and work well, but when he says that PCMOs would be "garbage" in this application, I'd like to know what information he is using to base that summation on.
 
I’d use it, be it just for improved self esteem and confidence
laugh.gif
 
Are you winning?

If yes, then stick with what gets your picture taken with the checkered flag. Otherwise, I think pretty much any conventional 20w50 would get the job done.
 
Originally Posted By: chainblu
Are you winning?

If yes, then stick with what gets your picture taken with the checkered flag. Otherwise, I think pretty much any conventional 20w50 would get the job done.


Guess I’ll stick with the dominator then. Lol
 
Originally Posted By: Dwane17
Do you have any data to support the idea that an HDEO would protect better in a higher revving, higher power per volume engine than a standard PCMO?

In our case no recorded or documented data, just real life experience of what worked well.

Full disclosure: Our use of HDEO only came about through sponsorship from a local parts store.

On track performance and off season tear downs revealed it worked very well in our application.




Was it changed out every session, full race, or just every complete race weekend?
 
I think the answer always comes back to oil analysis with TBN. Oil temp gauge would be helpful also. If your running 200-210F during race I would definitely look at oil analysis.

Ive seen race engines torn apart, My personal opinion is nothing and no oil saves engine from that kind of abuse. 1200rpm cruising to work on interstate is completely different ball game vs 15-30min in the 4000-8000 rpm is a lot of wear that no oil can really prevent. Not so much in rotating parts but... cylinder wear is very pronounced in race engine with high pressures and high rpm ranges constantly.

Look at maybe running oil analysis on your current interval and try maybe 5-40 T6 or Delo. See how analysis comes back on that try few different things I mean its race car your already beating on it.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: Dwane17
Do you have any data to support the idea that an HDEO would protect better in a higher revving, higher power per volume engine than a standard PCMO?

In our case no recorded or documented data, just real life experience of what worked well.

Full disclosure: Our use of HDEO only came about through sponsorship from a local parts store.

On track performance and off season tear downs revealed it worked very well in our application.




Was it changed out every session, full race, or just every complete race weekend?




We changed it every other race weekend.
Visually it looked like new when draining, but with sponsership providing it that was our process.
 
Have you talked to any local oil reps about getting some assistance with their oil?
Maybe run their decal or something.
My Dad raced back in the 60s and we were small potatoes but Amalie gave us free oil and trans fluid. We just had to run their decal.
 
HDEO's are designed to run in turbo charged engines with very high HP per cu... The turbo's routinely spin over 100,000 RPM. Other parts spin at various speeds. Discussions considering just crank speeds are not completely relevant ...

Aeration has to do with "windage" mostly. If your crank is separated from the sump with a windage tray, you are good. If not, no oil will really help (maybe Redline ...). If you do not have a windage tray, you are giving away "free" HP ...

Run what you want... But with that fuel dilution and changes so often, it's money that might be spent better elsewhere ...
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
You could try M1 or Castrol 0W-40. Or perhaps a CK-4 5W-40 (Delo, Delvac, Rotella). I wouldn’t run any oil with the ILSAC GF-5 specification. It’s really hard to say without oil temps though. I’d stick with what your running if it were me.

How often do you change the oil?


My vote is for Castrol 0W40 as well. One of the best off the shelf oils, and you can get it really cheap when on sale.

That is what we use in our Chump car (V6 MX6) that sees up to 24 hour races, which can put up to 2000 km on the car, redline every shift, on a single oil change.
 
Last edited:
It's hard to say without knowing exactly what kind of oil temperatures you're hitting. BUT.. without knowing that and still wanting to try something cheaper, I'd lean towards Rotella T6 5W-40, GC 0W-30 (if that's still around), or Mobil1 0W-40.

They're known to kind of break in to a certain viscosity and hold that really well. GC tends to stay where it starts, though, but all hold up very well to shearing and have higher than normal Zinc and Phosphorous levels.
 
Go with 5w40 synthetic and run a tank of chevron with techron every couple of oil changes. Shell ROTELLA T6
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
You could try M1 or Castrol 0W-40. Or perhaps a CK-4 5W-40 (Delo, Delvac, Rotella). I wouldn’t run any oil with the ILSAC GF-5 specification. It’s really hard to say without oil temps though. I’d stick with what your running if it were me.

How often do you change the oil?


My vote is for Castrol 0W40 as well. One of the best off the shelf oils, and you can get it really cheap when on sale.

That is what we use in our Chump car (V6 MX6) that sees up to 24 hour races, which can put up to 2000 km on the car, redline every shift, on a single oil change.


What sort of course/track is this on? Sounds like fun.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top