Do I need an oil cooler?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
2,556
Location
Lakeside CA and Lake Havasu City AZ
I have a dune buggy with an 215 cu in Olds V-8 all aluminum engine. It is water cooled and I run Amsoil 20-50 synthetic. It currently has an oil cooler, not mounted in the best location so it does not get much air flow at all, if any. I want to disconnect the oil cooler and put a filter back on the engine where the adapter is now. My reasons are these: 1) It doesn't get much air flow anyhow, so is it really doing much good? 2) The plumbing going to it includes, an adapter at the engine, 2 feet of hose to the remote oil filter adapter, 2 feet of hose from there to the cooler, then 5 feet of hose from the cooler back to the engine. Currently, my oil pressure is what I would consider on the low side and I do not know if the gauge is reading before or after the cooler and all that plumbing. In order to eliminate the cooler/remote filter I would have to switch from the FL1A/PH8A size filter to the shorter version on the engine, due to clearance. I may, based on responses here, change over and monitor oil temps at the filter with a temp gun. I have not looked at temps previously. What would be the Max oil temp I should see before I have to worry about it and put the cooler back in line? Any thoughts?
 
Do a search on this topic. I remember going back and forth a few times with JohnBrowning on this topic. At least three threads.

Short version: I would. But some wouldn't.

Best to UOA it with Terry Dyson/Blackstone package.
 
Quote:


Do a search on this topic. I remember going back and forth a few times with JohnBrowning on this topic. At least three threads.

Short version: I would. But some wouldn't.





My criteria is that if one isn't interested enough in what's going on to install an oil temperature gauge, then an oil cooler is a waste of time.
 
Seems an oil cooler could be a liability on a dune buggy. Just more likelihood of springing a leak. I would pull the oil cooler and run Redline Oil (assuming the Amsoil is not ester based).

What oil pressure are you getting?
 
Hot oil pressure is around 5-10 psi at idle. That was with 15-40 rotella. Now I will use Amsoil racing 20-50 series 2K. Without drilling a hole in the pan, I have nowhere to put an oil temp gauge. I plan on watching it with a temp. gun on the filter. I cannot do a UOA because the oil is changed to frequently. OCI is probably about 500 miles (no odometer)
 
Quote:


Hot oil pressure is around 5-10 psi at idle. That was with 15-40 rotella. Now I will use Amsoil racing 20-50 series 2K. Without drilling a hole in the pan, I have nowhere to put an oil temp gauge. I plan on watching it with a temp. gun on the filter. I cannot do a UOA because the oil is changed to frequently. OCI is probably about 500 miles (no odometer)




With that OCI, you can run a lot hotter than convential wisdom dictates. 270F on the HDEO should be OK with a 500 mile OCI, hotter on a good synthetic.
 
Well I sure would not use Redline on a 500 mile OCI. I rescind my recommendation. I think you want to buy whatever is on sale in 15w40 HDEO.
 
I never said I was running a 180 thermostat, and I am actually not sure what it is. The Rad. is all aluminum with electric fan and no provision for an oil cooler. The reason for the low OCI is the extreemly dirty/sandy environment this engine is run in. Cheap insurance for an expensive engine.
Now then--I will be using nothing but synthetic oil, but as oil temps increase, and I know the oil will handle higher temps, but is there a point in which the oil gets to hot to effectively cool bearings and other internal parts that rely on the oil for cooling? Any possible damage from this? Will I see a rise in water temp? How hot oil temp is to hot?
 
I'd make sure you have a 180º thermostat.
With an aluminum engine, an aluminum radiator, and no under-hood temperature worries, as well as a good coolant and syn oil, I'd think you wouldn't need a oil cooler.
 
If you have room and as long as it takes the Ford oil filters you can use an OEM Ford water to oil Hx. They are cheap on eBay. Just need a cool water line a return, they bolt to the oil filter mount then the oil filter spins on the Hx.
 
SHOZ, That is worth looking into! It will accept the Napa 1086 which is a short version of the FL1A. The FL1A is to long to due to the tubular frame clearance. If I remember correctly, doesn't the Ford cooler change the angle of the filter about 90 degrees? That might work.
 
With how hot it is out in the dez and how low your oil pressure was with Rotella I'd run the cooler.

I thought I'd seen a tranny temp sensor adapter that fit inline, it was a big double-ended 3/8" barb fitting with a threaded hole for the sensor. but I just looked on www.egauges.com and I couldn't find it. maybe summit?
 
To answer the question, install an oil temp guage. Oil and water temp guages are cheaper then that expensive engine and will give you the data you need to make the decision on whether you need that oil cooler.

You change the oil since it is cheap insurance. But, you don't know what thermostat is being run?

Does the e-fan run all the time? thermostatically controlled?
 
Sorry, been gone a while. E-fan is thermostatically controlled, but at the intake manifold not the radiator. As soon as the engine warms up, it turns on and stays on until shut down. Water temp usually stays between 190-220.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top