I agree with the general info above; temps affect the typical flourescent system.
There is a work-around, but it may not be worth the effort given the low cost of LED sets today. What can help a flourscent bulb light-off is getting the charge to run the length of the bulb. When you touch the bulb, you generate a localized "hot spot" which helps the charge jump from one end to the other. Even the static charge in your hand (especially common in low-humidity weather), helps!
One way you can sort of assist the system is to put a thin strip of aluminum foil along the tube. I'll be specific ...
- get a roll of aluminum foil; (common for kitchen work, nothing fancy)
- roll it out long enough that it would run the axial length of the bulb (4' or 8' typically); cut the foil at that length
- now cut the foil in a strip about 3/4" wide, to run the length of the bulb (this is a major pain in the rear as it may tear, but being diligent can help)
- remove bulb and lay on work surface
- lay the foil strip along the axis of the tube against the glass
- take some electrical tape and then secure the foil to the tube about every 10-12", and certainly at the ends; the foil needs to be snug along the glass, but not so tight as it would be prone to tearing during handling
- cut the ends of the foil off such that they terminate about 1/2" before the tube end
- reinstall bulb carefully, so as to not tear the foil. put the foil so that it rests nearest to the fixture, so as to not affect the light dispersement into the room
Believe it or not, this works, and pretty darn well too. I've done it on many older 8' fixtures, and it really makes a difference in cold temps. Significantly so, in fact. In my garage and barn, I've updated to LEDs because the 4' fixtures were reasonable cost. But it's far cheaper just to put some foil on a tube, if you have the patience.