DIY brake pads

[HTSS_TR]

http://www.cockeyed.com/lessons/brakeshoes/brakeshoes01.shtml

I think this "How to replace brake pads" is very easy to understand, especially for newbees.

The only missing instruction is to siphon some brake fluid in the reservoir to avoid spills when you push the piston back into the caliber.

What do you think ? Any other steps should someone who is not mechanical inclined to know/learn before venture to replace brake pads himself ?

 

[SLCraig]

If the master cylinder and other brake components are working properly you should not have to siphon anything out for it to work. The fluid level goes down as the pads wear, and it will go back up to where it was originally, when you squeeze the piston back in.

There is not much to it man. Lubricate the slide pins, use brake quiet on the backs of the pads (sticky stuff) and re-assemble.

 

[mopar_monkey]

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
If the master cylinder and other brake components are working properly you should not have to siphon anything out for it to work. The fluid level goes down as the pads wear, and it will go back up to where it was originally, when you squeeze the piston back in.

There is not much to it man. Lubricate the slide pins, use brake quiet on the backs of the pads (sticky stuff) and re-assemble.

hopefully at some point they have done a brake flush, that would possibly cause it to overflow when the calipers are compressed. it's a good idea to remove some fluid anyways, it's easy enough to top off and spilled brake fluid will eat paint and rubber components not specifically made to hold up to brake fluid.

 

[earlyre]

so why have i been afraid to do this again??

stupid fears of messing stuff up...

 

[tomcat27]

This is gonna sound silly - but it's easy as long as nothing goes wrong. If soemthing else is wrong with the brakes other than needing pads/rotors, or is stuck/rusted - then it's easy. I have a few friends who I have taught to do their own brakes - and they call me in when "sumthin aint right".

 

[SaturnIonVue]

One point not mentioned is to loosen the lugnuts just a bit before raising the car with a jack or on jackstands. This is so the vehicle won't fall off the jack/jackstands when torque is applied to loosen the lugnuts.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Me too ! The last time I changed brake pads was more than 10-15 years ago. Since then I bought pads online, usually on sale and/or with rebate, and have my trusted mechanic changed it for $50 labor. But the last few times I had to wait 2-3 hours before he had time to do my brake.

This time I decide to change brake pads myself to save 1 hour round trip drive and possible 2-3 hours wait. My brother on-law just done brake pads on 3 of his cars the weekend before last, he said it was easy and took him less than 1 hour per car.

Thanks SLCraig, I will "Lubricate the slide pins and use brake quiet on the backs of the pads" before re-assemble.

I think if the fluid level is around the low mark then it may not needs siphon, but if it is near the full mark then siphon some fluid is needed.

Actually, since I flushed the brake fluid a year ago, it is the good time to siphon all fluid from reservoir then add new fluid after replaced brake pads, or may be do brake fluid flush again while the wheels are off.

 

[HTSS_TR]

"Loosen the lugnuts just a bit before raising the car" is very much standard if one ever try to remove the wheel(s) for tire rotations and/or brake flush or for swapping summer wheels/tires to winter. But I think it's good idea to include that in the instructions, because it may be read by someone who never do any maintenance for their car(s).

 

[crinkles]

Would be great with the same instructions for replacement of the rotors.

I too am not confident in doing this. If smoeone could show me once, I am sure I could swing it. I only have one car and a fair way from anything so can't afford to stuff it up.

 

[Deltona_Dave]

You may not have to siphon any fluid from the reservoir, just remove the fill cap (after cleaning it), put a shop rag around it. Easy way to push the pistons back is to use the old brake pad to cover the piston, use a "c" clamp or a pair of channel lock pliers to push it back.

One thing that was not mentioned, was to use a bungee cord or something similar to support the caliper if you have to take it completely off. Don't let it hang by the brake line.

As mentioned before, clean and re-lube the slide pins and put some anti-squeal sauce on the back of the pads.

I generally flush the brake lines while I have the wheel off. Invest in a brake bleeder wrench (don't ask how I know).

Have some PB Blaster ready and a can of brake cleaner too.

Dave

 

[Donald]

A couple of comments. You will need a small wire brush to clean off the areas where the tabs go. Also some disc brake grease. I normally pull the entire caliper and use an old coat hanger to hang it with. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the hose. Most cases you need to replace or turn the rotors so you cannot just swing the caliper up, it needs to come off. Rotors are throw-away these days. Few people turn them. If you want a good brake job, replace the rotors with the pads and your brakes will be trouble free for another 30K-40K miles. If you turn them they may warp down the road. If you do nothing with the rotors the braking will be less than what it could have been.

I try and get top rated pads and decent rotors.

In a worst case situation, you can pull the wheel from the other side and see how the parts go together.

Do NOT touch the pad surface with your fingers. Unless you have just cleaned your fingers with brake cleaner. New or old rotors need to be cleaned and wiped with brake cleaner. If you reuse old rotors without turning, then wire brush them or sand them (then clean).

Notice the condition of the old pads. All 4 (same axle) worn evenly? Thats what you want. If on one wheel you have one pad worn a lot more than the other, something is sticking, either the caliper or pin. If you cannot push the piston back in with a large C-clamp, then the caliper is probably sticking (rust inside) and you need a new caliper and probably need to flush the brake fluid.

 

[Deltona_Dave]

Also, don't forget to start up the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times, before getting it off the jack stands.

Dave

 

[PF52]

With ABS, aren't we supposed to open the bleeder slightly and let a little fluid dribble out when compressing the piston? That's the way I've been doing it (on ABS cars) and have had no issues. Obviously the fluid level in the reservoir needs to be checked afterwards.

 

[KrisZ]

I don't see any jack stands and blocked rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling backwards.

 

[CharBaby]

About every 4 years per vehicle I have to do brakes/rotors. When I do, I like to also flush the whole system. This isn't meant to be a step-by-step instruction, just some of my own personal things that I like to do. I really like to take my time and lube the sliders, backside of the pads, check for corrosion on brake lines etc. Remove anythting that is overly corroded and replace it or wire wheel it. This is important to me!

Since every vehicle in my household is 4 wheel disk(except the '80 FORMULA), I speek of all pads/rotors(not shoes/drums)

First, I like to remove as much brake fluid from the master cylinder and put in new fluid for a whole system bleeding.

Second, I like to start my brake job at the wheel the furthest away from the master cylinder and move my way forward bleeding ecah wheel after the brakes are installed.

Third, while doing each brake, I like to apply a vacuum bleeder to the (open)bleeder valve on the caliper when pushing back the piston as not to push back any contaminants through the system.

Of course, this is if one is doing all 4 brakes on the whole vehicle, which is how I perfer to do them and how it generaly(not always) works out for me. Typicaly, if I have to replace brakes on one axel, I'm doing'em all.

It's rare in my climate that I wouldn't have to do rotors. If there is the slightest pulsation at the time I'm ready for pads, they're gone! The rotors are ususlly so rusty/corroded anyway, why not?

 

[Schmoe]

Good points, but one that was over looked. On a lot of the rear brakes, especially Honda and those with emergency brake lever next to the gear shift, the back calipers must be turned while pushing them back. You'll need a real fat slotted head screw driver or go to the parts store and get a caliper-pusher-backer....forgot the actual part name, but a decent auto store will help you out. A lot of times you don't need a C clamp, a good pair of wide pliers or even just your hand will push the caliper piston back. But yeah, it's that simple.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: css9450
With ABS, aren't we supposed to open the bleeder slightly and let a little fluid dribble out when compressing the piston? That's the way I've been doing it (on ABS cars) and have had no issues. Obviously the fluid level in the reservoir needs to be checked afterwards.


I prefer this method but sometimes opening the bleeder valve could change this simple job in to nightmare if the bleeder breaks off. I soak it with penetrating oil (Kroil) the day before the break job.

- Vikas

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Schmoe
Good points, but one that was over looked. On a lot of the rear brakes, especially Honda and those with emergency brake lever next to the gear shift, the back calipers must be turned while pushing them back. You'll need a real fat slotted head screw driver or go to the parts store and get a caliper-pusher-backer....forgot the actual part name, but a decent auto store will help you out. A lot of times you don't need a C clamp, a good pair of wide pliers or even just your hand will push the caliper piston back. But yeah, it's that simple.


This depends on the type of rear parking brake. If it's a drum-in-hat rotor, then the parking brake is actuated by shoes inside the rear rotor and the rear caliper compresses in just like the front. But if the parking brake cable mechanically works the caliper itself, then you need the brake caliper cube to screw the piston back in.

Both of my cars have the drum-in-hat style rotor. Only my earlier Cadillacs had the other style rear parking brake. I understand that many GMs still use the other style parking brake, which requires the caliper cube tool.

 

[PF52]

I have one vehicle where the pads leave a little ridge along the outer edge of the rotor, just enough so that I usually have to compress the piston a little just to get the caliper off the rotor.

 

[tgferg67]

I would never do a brake job with the factory emergency scissors jack and no safety jack stands. Your health/safety should not be a passive thought when working on a car.