I've replaced lots of struts and put the cars on the alignment rack afterwards....I can't remember a single time when a camber adjustment was required. Of course, I was at a toyota dealer, using toyota struts with round holes in them for the knuckle, and while there was a very slight amount of adjustment possible...it wasn't much unless you switched out for undercut camber bolts or slotted the mount holes. We'd just set the toe, which was usually pretty close and didn't change because of the strut replacement but existed before the work was performed.
If you have slotted holes or lots of adjustment where the strut mounts to the knuckle, it can absolutely change the toe setting....set camber first, then toe.
Park it on flat ground, hole a framing square up against the wheel....measure from the square to the bead on the bottom and the top, and I usually make the top 1/4" farther away from the square than the bottom.
Then jack the car up, wrap the tire with 2" painters tape, use a sharpie to scribe a line all the way around it. Get a helper to hold one end of the tape measure, then after rolling the car back and forth a bit to settle things...measure line to line both in front of and behind the tires. Give it zero to 1/8" of toe out for a FWD car, 1/8-1/4" of toe in for a RWD car, and send it.
You can get all fancy and use a tire scribe...
https://trakkrats.com/products/tire-scribe-for-toe-measurement the tape and sharpy works good too. I'd argue that this is every bit as accurate as using a proper computer aligner machine...possibly more because we're measuring off the actual tire, not some compensated figure of runout of a bent wheel (all wheels are bent).
Yeah, you're not on the axle centerline, but it's close enough.
If you have actual specs are your disposal, use those...without specs, the above numbers will work pretty good.
