I DIY alignments for exactly the reason OP mentions.
Do not set toe right off the bat. You didn't do anything to change it. Your CAMBER is all over the place, and changing the camber will change the toe. So this is your opportunity to get the camber right by measuring the toe. (Read my final paragraph for how to do that.)
Find a FLAT driveway-- put a marble on a tile on its surface, make sure it doesn't roll. Many are crowned.
Get an 18 inch laser bubble level, put that thing on your tire sidewalls at 7 and 11 o'clock. For a little bit of negative camber (scientific spec, LOL) you want the 11 o'clock position of the tire about a quarter inch inward compared to 7 o'clock.
Go for a drive, see if it pulls left or right. Camber will cause a pull, or a push, however you look at it. Negative camber on the right with neutral or positive on the left will make the car pull to the left, and vice versa.
Got your camber so it doesn't pull? Check your toe. Put the laser level on the tires at 4 and 8 oclock and aim for the rear tires. Since the bubble head of the level is a few mm from the straightedge, the laser should just barely miss the rear tire sidewall when you aim it back there. Rack the thing up and down to watch how the laser spot tracks the concrete floor and misses the rear tire. You can do trigonometry if you have a specific toe requirement but I go as close to zero as I can.
