If I could go to the store and buy Amsoil I would consider it, but you can't and therefore I will not be using it. I do wish stores like Walmart would carry oils like Amsoil and Kendall oil. I have nothing against Mobil and I may stick with it, I was just thinking about trying something different for a change. I just received my kit from Blackstone so I'm probably going to UOA my current fill of Mobil 1and then do the same for the next OCI. I just wondered what the new oil craze is, still PYB or Caterham blend?
Divorcing Mobil 1
- Thread starter Tmiller3063
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Originally Posted By: GM4LIFE
Mobil 1 is fine for 90% of the engines on the road. It's when you get to the ultra high performance world and you beat the [censored] out of the car all day, everyday, you may want to go a higher end oil like Amsoil. You can't go wrong with Amsoil Signature Series oil and the Amsoil EA filters for the ultimate in protection. I am running Mobil 1 now, but will most likely switch to Amsoil on my next oil change.
So the cars at LeMans and the Porsche Cup cars aren't ultra high performance? You do know that GM runs M1 0w-40 in their own Race Program Corvette's, which conveniently is the same oil used in the Porsche Cup cars and many at LeMans run the 0w-40 and some the 5w-30.
Mobil 1 is fine for 90% of the engines on the road. It's when you get to the ultra high performance world and you beat the [censored] out of the car all day, everyday, you may want to go a higher end oil like Amsoil. You can't go wrong with Amsoil Signature Series oil and the Amsoil EA filters for the ultimate in protection. I am running Mobil 1 now, but will most likely switch to Amsoil on my next oil change.
So the cars at LeMans and the Porsche Cup cars aren't ultra high performance? You do know that GM runs M1 0w-40 in their own Race Program Corvette's, which conveniently is the same oil used in the Porsche Cup cars and many at LeMans run the 0w-40 and some the 5w-30.
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Originally Posted By: GM4LIFE
Oil analysis for one. I compared Mobil 1 to Amsoil in that way. Amsoil can go much farther between oil changes over Mobil 1 and protects the engine better while you go the further distance. Better wear protection with Amsoil.
How did you determine you were getting better wear protection? Also, I would hope an oil designed for 25K changes would last longer in service than one designed for 10K intervals.
Quote:
While Mobil 1 is good oil, Amsoil is excellent. Research the two. There have been a lot of Mobil 1 complaints and rumors of ingredient changes. Amsoil seems to be the gold standard of motor oil these days.
I would argue M1 0w-40 is the gold standard for engine oil. It is the factory and service fill in a myriad of high performance cars and used in numerous factory race programs and racing venues.
I think AMSOIL makes excellent products, which is why I am a dealer and use their gear oils, ATF's and engine oils. But my M5 still has M1 0w-40 in the sump. AMSOIL doesn't make an LL-01 approved product, nor do they have a product with the huge list of certs/approvals that oil has. It is what it is. It is Mobil's best oil and probably the most widely used single engine oil in the racing world due to its extensive use by factory race teams.
Oil analysis for one. I compared Mobil 1 to Amsoil in that way. Amsoil can go much farther between oil changes over Mobil 1 and protects the engine better while you go the further distance. Better wear protection with Amsoil.
How did you determine you were getting better wear protection? Also, I would hope an oil designed for 25K changes would last longer in service than one designed for 10K intervals.
Quote:
While Mobil 1 is good oil, Amsoil is excellent. Research the two. There have been a lot of Mobil 1 complaints and rumors of ingredient changes. Amsoil seems to be the gold standard of motor oil these days.
I would argue M1 0w-40 is the gold standard for engine oil. It is the factory and service fill in a myriad of high performance cars and used in numerous factory race programs and racing venues.
I think AMSOIL makes excellent products, which is why I am a dealer and use their gear oils, ATF's and engine oils. But my M5 still has M1 0w-40 in the sump. AMSOIL doesn't make an LL-01 approved product, nor do they have a product with the huge list of certs/approvals that oil has. It is what it is. It is Mobil's best oil and probably the most widely used single engine oil in the racing world due to its extensive use by factory race teams.
Originally Posted By: GM4LIFE
Mobil 1 is fine for 90% of the engines on the road. It's when you get to the ultra high performance world and you beat the [censored] out of the car all day, everyday, you may want to go a higher end oil like Amsoil. You can't go wrong with Amsoil Signature Series oil and the Amsoil EA filters for the ultimate in protection. I am running Mobil 1 now, but will most likely switch to Amsoil on my next oil change.
I don't see Amsoil in factory fill high performance engines. I'd be careful on what you say.
Mobil 1 is fine for 90% of the engines on the road. It's when you get to the ultra high performance world and you beat the [censored] out of the car all day, everyday, you may want to go a higher end oil like Amsoil. You can't go wrong with Amsoil Signature Series oil and the Amsoil EA filters for the ultimate in protection. I am running Mobil 1 now, but will most likely switch to Amsoil on my next oil change.
I don't see Amsoil in factory fill high performance engines. I'd be careful on what you say.
If you must switch try Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra (if you can find it)
Originally Posted By: Tmiller3063
I'm thinking about divorcing Mobil 1 5W-30 and trying a different oil in my 2004 Tacoma with the 5VZ-FE. What are some good synthetic or even synthetic blends that I could try out for a 5k OCI. I'm thinking Pennzoil Syn Blend but I have not heard anything about it. Also my fellow Tacoma drivers, tell me what you use!
Why run 5K on synthetic? Just run a good conventional oil and be done. Your 3.4L is a solid engine. I've got a coworker with the same engine but in a Tundra with 300K and runs Maxlife blend to 10K intervals. Mine, look at my signature. I run between 6-7K.
I'm thinking about divorcing Mobil 1 5W-30 and trying a different oil in my 2004 Tacoma with the 5VZ-FE. What are some good synthetic or even synthetic blends that I could try out for a 5k OCI. I'm thinking Pennzoil Syn Blend but I have not heard anything about it. Also my fellow Tacoma drivers, tell me what you use!
Why run 5K on synthetic? Just run a good conventional oil and be done. Your 3.4L is a solid engine. I've got a coworker with the same engine but in a Tundra with 300K and runs Maxlife blend to 10K intervals. Mine, look at my signature. I run between 6-7K.
I can understand why the OP wants the split. I grew up on pennzoil and Castrol. When I got my own ride it was Castrol from day one, it still is. No need to change because it has run perfect in everything I have had.
Then one day the wife says she will pick up oil for me. She knows what to get but M1 was onsale. So I poured it in. First start the car ran a tad rough and ticked. The wife said after it warmed up it was worse. So I dumped it out and put GTX back in it. Ran perfectly smooth with no noise again. Now I run CHM in her car, same story, runs smooth for the entire 7500 mile OCI. Back in 09 in the PacNW there was no 5w30 in any brand, nothing, but plenty of 5w20 everywhere in every brand, so GTX 5w20 went in. Ran just as good as the 5w30 for 7500 miles. But that M1 5w30 was just horrible.
My brother buys into all the hype. Ran M1 in a malibu with a 5.3 in it, it clicked and clacked, ran a Equinox he had with M1 and it was a clicking clacking monster. Now he has a 3.5 Eco Boost F150. Ran M1 in that aswell and the noise was terrible, sounded like it was gonna fall apart. Then one day he has turbo problems and 2 months later he has all new everything under warranty replaced and ford gave him a forever service plan as a we are sorry it blew up. Now it has Motor Craft syn blend 5w30 in it and the flipping thing is smooth as can be. He says it is the new rebuilt motor, Im not buying it. His motor runs so flipping quiet now it is very noticeable.
Divorce that oil. Everyone complains about it, especially if you ride a Harley, I can pick out right away the guys who run it by the top end noise. No way I will ever buy it on purpose and I would rather run CHM 10,000 miles and wait for more to get in stock before I ran it. The old oil with 7500 on it will run more smooth.
I got my 01 3.0 Vulcan powered Ranger at the start of the year and it had 5w20 in it, dude I bought it from works at a quick lube. Ran fine on it, till the day I put that truck to work after I fixed some minor issues. That light oil was toast in 2,000 miles. It does not hold up well to hauling and towing (in that motor) at all. I believed my experience in the car would prove it to be fine. Not in a hard worked motor, maybe if it was a point a to point b truck and only ever hauled a pack of smokes and a monster, but I work it. Filled it with CHM 10w30 and with 3,000 miles on the current oil it is not as burnt up as the 5w20 was and I have worked it harder with this oil change than what came in it.
Bottom line is you have to match the oil to the application. In my case M1 did bad in a car that is easy on oil and light viscosity oil in the truck is bad for working it hard every day it sees pavement.
What I dont get after lurking here for years is how everyone defends M1 when people try the koolaid. It uses oil, car never used a drop before, it runs hotter, turns black super fast, motoer runs rough on it, motor sounds like spoons bouncing around the oil pan and valve cover. Then the fanbois pipe up, run it a few OCIs, you get used to the noise, you get used to the consumption. I can only imagine if the coin were reversed and everyone who used M1 forever switched to Castrol and said it uses oil, runs rough, sounds terrible, no oil on dip stick after 3,000 miles. Yall would open the gates of the hate machine right quick.
So the OP noticed what everyone does who tries the koolaid, its no big deal, better oils are out there. Pick one, just dont go back to paying for a mediocre oil and paying a bunch for advertising. Too easy.
Then one day the wife says she will pick up oil for me. She knows what to get but M1 was onsale. So I poured it in. First start the car ran a tad rough and ticked. The wife said after it warmed up it was worse. So I dumped it out and put GTX back in it. Ran perfectly smooth with no noise again. Now I run CHM in her car, same story, runs smooth for the entire 7500 mile OCI. Back in 09 in the PacNW there was no 5w30 in any brand, nothing, but plenty of 5w20 everywhere in every brand, so GTX 5w20 went in. Ran just as good as the 5w30 for 7500 miles. But that M1 5w30 was just horrible.
My brother buys into all the hype. Ran M1 in a malibu with a 5.3 in it, it clicked and clacked, ran a Equinox he had with M1 and it was a clicking clacking monster. Now he has a 3.5 Eco Boost F150. Ran M1 in that aswell and the noise was terrible, sounded like it was gonna fall apart. Then one day he has turbo problems and 2 months later he has all new everything under warranty replaced and ford gave him a forever service plan as a we are sorry it blew up. Now it has Motor Craft syn blend 5w30 in it and the flipping thing is smooth as can be. He says it is the new rebuilt motor, Im not buying it. His motor runs so flipping quiet now it is very noticeable.
Divorce that oil. Everyone complains about it, especially if you ride a Harley, I can pick out right away the guys who run it by the top end noise. No way I will ever buy it on purpose and I would rather run CHM 10,000 miles and wait for more to get in stock before I ran it. The old oil with 7500 on it will run more smooth.
I got my 01 3.0 Vulcan powered Ranger at the start of the year and it had 5w20 in it, dude I bought it from works at a quick lube. Ran fine on it, till the day I put that truck to work after I fixed some minor issues. That light oil was toast in 2,000 miles. It does not hold up well to hauling and towing (in that motor) at all. I believed my experience in the car would prove it to be fine. Not in a hard worked motor, maybe if it was a point a to point b truck and only ever hauled a pack of smokes and a monster, but I work it. Filled it with CHM 10w30 and with 3,000 miles on the current oil it is not as burnt up as the 5w20 was and I have worked it harder with this oil change than what came in it.
Bottom line is you have to match the oil to the application. In my case M1 did bad in a car that is easy on oil and light viscosity oil in the truck is bad for working it hard every day it sees pavement.
What I dont get after lurking here for years is how everyone defends M1 when people try the koolaid. It uses oil, car never used a drop before, it runs hotter, turns black super fast, motoer runs rough on it, motor sounds like spoons bouncing around the oil pan and valve cover. Then the fanbois pipe up, run it a few OCIs, you get used to the noise, you get used to the consumption. I can only imagine if the coin were reversed and everyone who used M1 forever switched to Castrol and said it uses oil, runs rough, sounds terrible, no oil on dip stick after 3,000 miles. Yall would open the gates of the hate machine right quick.
So the OP noticed what everyone does who tries the koolaid, its no big deal, better oils are out there. Pick one, just dont go back to paying for a mediocre oil and paying a bunch for advertising. Too easy.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I can understand why the OP wants the split. I grew up on pennzoil and Castrol. When I got my own ride it was Castrol from day one, it still is. No need to change because it has run perfect in everything I have had.
Then one day the wife says she will pick up oil for me. She knows what to get but M1 was onsale. So I poured it in. First start the car ran a tad rough and ticked. The wife said after it warmed up it was worse. So I dumped it out and put GTX back in it. Ran perfectly smooth with no noise again. Now I run CHM in her car, same story, runs smooth for the entire 7500 mile OCI. Back in 09 in the PacNW there was no 5w30 in any brand, nothing, but plenty of 5w20 everywhere in every brand, so GTX 5w20 went in. Ran just as good as the 5w30 for 7500 miles. But that M1 5w30 was just horrible.
My brother buys into all the hype. Ran M1 in a malibu with a 5.3 in it, it clicked and clacked, ran a Equinox he had with M1 and it was a clicking clacking monster. Now he has a 3.5 Eco Boost F150. Ran M1 in that aswell and the noise was terrible, sounded like it was gonna fall apart. Then one day he has turbo problems and 2 months later he has all new everything under warranty replaced and ford gave him a forever service plan as a we are sorry it blew up. Now it has Motor Craft syn blend 5w30 in it and the flipping thing is smooth as can be. He says it is the new rebuilt motor, Im not buying it. His motor runs so flipping quiet now it is very noticeable.
Divorce that oil. Everyone complains about it, especially if you ride a Harley, I can pick out right away the guys who run it by the top end noise. No way I will ever buy it on purpose and I would rather run CHM 10,000 miles and wait for more to get in stock before I ran it. The old oil with 7500 on it will run more smooth.
I got my 01 3.0 Vulcan powered Ranger at the start of the year and it had 5w20 in it, dude I bought it from works at a quick lube. Ran fine on it, till the day I put that truck to work after I fixed some minor issues. That light oil was toast in 2,000 miles. It does not hold up well to hauling and towing (in that motor) at all. I believed my experience in the car would prove it to be fine. Not in a hard worked motor, maybe if it was a point a to point b truck and only ever hauled a pack of smokes and a monster, but I work it. Filled it with CHM 10w30 and with 3,000 miles on the current oil it is not as burnt up as the 5w20 was and I have worked it harder with this oil change than what came in it.
Bottom line is you have to match the oil to the application. In my case M1 did bad in a car that is easy on oil and light viscosity oil in the truck is bad for working it hard every day it sees pavement.
What I dont get after lurking here for years is how everyone defends M1 when people try the koolaid. It uses oil, car never used a drop before, it runs hotter, turns black super fast, motoer runs rough on it, motor sounds like spoons bouncing around the oil pan and valve cover. Then the fanbois pipe up, run it a few OCIs, you get used to the noise, you get used to the consumption. I can only imagine if the coin were reversed and everyone who used M1 forever switched to Castrol and said it uses oil, runs rough, sounds terrible, no oil on dip stick after 3,000 miles. Yall would open the gates of the hate machine right quick.
So the OP noticed what everyone does who tries the koolaid, its no big deal, better oils are out there. Pick one, just dont go back to paying for a mediocre oil and paying a bunch for advertising. Too easy.
You..... Have read my mind. So I'm thinking Pennzoil Syn Blend. The only problem is I have never seen a VOA/UOA on this oil and I really like to know what kind of add pack and oil has in it before I fill the sump. Guess I'm going to have to break down and do one for the team, unless somebody has already did one (didn't find one when I searched)
I can understand why the OP wants the split. I grew up on pennzoil and Castrol. When I got my own ride it was Castrol from day one, it still is. No need to change because it has run perfect in everything I have had.
Then one day the wife says she will pick up oil for me. She knows what to get but M1 was onsale. So I poured it in. First start the car ran a tad rough and ticked. The wife said after it warmed up it was worse. So I dumped it out and put GTX back in it. Ran perfectly smooth with no noise again. Now I run CHM in her car, same story, runs smooth for the entire 7500 mile OCI. Back in 09 in the PacNW there was no 5w30 in any brand, nothing, but plenty of 5w20 everywhere in every brand, so GTX 5w20 went in. Ran just as good as the 5w30 for 7500 miles. But that M1 5w30 was just horrible.
My brother buys into all the hype. Ran M1 in a malibu with a 5.3 in it, it clicked and clacked, ran a Equinox he had with M1 and it was a clicking clacking monster. Now he has a 3.5 Eco Boost F150. Ran M1 in that aswell and the noise was terrible, sounded like it was gonna fall apart. Then one day he has turbo problems and 2 months later he has all new everything under warranty replaced and ford gave him a forever service plan as a we are sorry it blew up. Now it has Motor Craft syn blend 5w30 in it and the flipping thing is smooth as can be. He says it is the new rebuilt motor, Im not buying it. His motor runs so flipping quiet now it is very noticeable.
Divorce that oil. Everyone complains about it, especially if you ride a Harley, I can pick out right away the guys who run it by the top end noise. No way I will ever buy it on purpose and I would rather run CHM 10,000 miles and wait for more to get in stock before I ran it. The old oil with 7500 on it will run more smooth.
I got my 01 3.0 Vulcan powered Ranger at the start of the year and it had 5w20 in it, dude I bought it from works at a quick lube. Ran fine on it, till the day I put that truck to work after I fixed some minor issues. That light oil was toast in 2,000 miles. It does not hold up well to hauling and towing (in that motor) at all. I believed my experience in the car would prove it to be fine. Not in a hard worked motor, maybe if it was a point a to point b truck and only ever hauled a pack of smokes and a monster, but I work it. Filled it with CHM 10w30 and with 3,000 miles on the current oil it is not as burnt up as the 5w20 was and I have worked it harder with this oil change than what came in it.
Bottom line is you have to match the oil to the application. In my case M1 did bad in a car that is easy on oil and light viscosity oil in the truck is bad for working it hard every day it sees pavement.
What I dont get after lurking here for years is how everyone defends M1 when people try the koolaid. It uses oil, car never used a drop before, it runs hotter, turns black super fast, motoer runs rough on it, motor sounds like spoons bouncing around the oil pan and valve cover. Then the fanbois pipe up, run it a few OCIs, you get used to the noise, you get used to the consumption. I can only imagine if the coin were reversed and everyone who used M1 forever switched to Castrol and said it uses oil, runs rough, sounds terrible, no oil on dip stick after 3,000 miles. Yall would open the gates of the hate machine right quick.
So the OP noticed what everyone does who tries the koolaid, its no big deal, better oils are out there. Pick one, just dont go back to paying for a mediocre oil and paying a bunch for advertising. Too easy.
You..... Have read my mind. So I'm thinking Pennzoil Syn Blend. The only problem is I have never seen a VOA/UOA on this oil and I really like to know what kind of add pack and oil has in it before I fill the sump. Guess I'm going to have to break down and do one for the team, unless somebody has already did one (didn't find one when I searched)
Last edited:
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Here on Bitog you may find valid, heated discussions regarding conventional vs synthetic, thick vs thin, and between brands, but very few if any members will tell you that 'M1 is the reason any car suffered a beakdown or made it sound like it has spoons in the sump'. Choose any API SN oil you'd like, Pennzoil Synthetic blend sounds like a winner. But don't get that confused with M1's quality as it's also a top notch product.
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If you want to try a different synth,give Edge a shot.
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Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I can understand why the OP wants the split. I grew up on pennzoil and Castrol. When I got my own ride it was Castrol from day one, it still is. No need to change because it has run perfect in everything I have had.
Then one day the wife says she will pick up oil for me. She knows what to get but M1 was onsale. So I poured it in. First start the car ran a tad rough and ticked. The wife said after it warmed up it was worse. So I dumped it out and put GTX back in it. Ran perfectly smooth with no noise again. Now I run CHM in her car, same story, runs smooth for the entire 7500 mile OCI. Back in 09 in the PacNW there was no 5w30 in any brand, nothing, but plenty of 5w20 everywhere in every brand, so GTX 5w20 went in. Ran just as good as the 5w30 for 7500 miles. But that M1 5w30 was just horrible.
My brother buys into all the hype. Ran M1 in a malibu with a 5.3 in it, it clicked and clacked, ran a Equinox he had with M1 and it was a clicking clacking monster. Now he has a 3.5 Eco Boost F150. Ran M1 in that aswell and the noise was terrible, sounded like it was gonna fall apart. Then one day he has turbo problems and 2 months later he has all new everything under warranty replaced and ford gave him a forever service plan as a we are sorry it blew up. Now it has Motor Craft syn blend 5w30 in it and the flipping thing is smooth as can be. He says it is the new rebuilt motor, Im not buying it. His motor runs so flipping quiet now it is very noticeable.
Divorce that oil. Everyone complains about it, especially if you ride a Harley, I can pick out right away the guys who run it by the top end noise. No way I will ever buy it on purpose and I would rather run CHM 10,000 miles and wait for more to get in stock before I ran it. The old oil with 7500 on it will run more smooth.
I got my 01 3.0 Vulcan powered Ranger at the start of the year and it had 5w20 in it, dude I bought it from works at a quick lube. Ran fine on it, till the day I put that truck to work after I fixed some minor issues. That light oil was toast in 2,000 miles. It does not hold up well to hauling and towing (in that motor) at all. I believed my experience in the car would prove it to be fine. Not in a hard worked motor, maybe if it was a point a to point b truck and only ever hauled a pack of smokes and a monster, but I work it. Filled it with CHM 10w30 and with 3,000 miles on the current oil it is not as burnt up as the 5w20 was and I have worked it harder with this oil change than what came in it.
Bottom line is you have to match the oil to the application. In my case M1 did bad in a car that is easy on oil and light viscosity oil in the truck is bad for working it hard every day it sees pavement.
What I dont get after lurking here for years is how everyone defends M1 when people try the koolaid. It uses oil, car never used a drop before, it runs hotter, turns black super fast, motoer runs rough on it, motor sounds like spoons bouncing around the oil pan and valve cover. Then the fanbois pipe up, run it a few OCIs, you get used to the noise, you get used to the consumption. I can only imagine if the coin were reversed and everyone who used M1 forever switched to Castrol and said it uses oil, runs rough, sounds terrible, no oil on dip stick after 3,000 miles. Yall would open the gates of the hate machine right quick.
So the OP noticed what everyone does who tries the koolaid, its no big deal, better oils are out there. Pick one, just dont go back to paying for a mediocre oil and paying a bunch for advertising. Too easy.
Castrol:
Mobil 1:
I could of course put some context and history to the pictures but why bother if we are just tossing out hyperbole and conjecture eh?
I've torn down a number of engines run on Mobil 1, they all were spotless. I've also NEVER had an engine noisier with M1, and that's probably 30+ engines to your three. The 302 in the first set of Mobil 1 pictures has 338,000Km on it, has ZERO bore wear (visible cross hatching still in the bores), factory compression, zero consumption and makes 100+HP more than stock. THAT engine, along with our 425HP built 312 Interceptor were the two engines that proved to me that the product performed.
Oh, and we ran this engine on Mobil 1 too (the 0w-40):
It came apart (again) to get the link-bar lifters installed.
I'm sure GTX is a fine oil (my grandfather used it and VWB because he got it on sale by the case.... It was never any more or less quiet than M1 in the same engine BTW) but some of the anecdotes tossed around here are utterly ridiculous.
I can understand why the OP wants the split. I grew up on pennzoil and Castrol. When I got my own ride it was Castrol from day one, it still is. No need to change because it has run perfect in everything I have had.
Then one day the wife says she will pick up oil for me. She knows what to get but M1 was onsale. So I poured it in. First start the car ran a tad rough and ticked. The wife said after it warmed up it was worse. So I dumped it out and put GTX back in it. Ran perfectly smooth with no noise again. Now I run CHM in her car, same story, runs smooth for the entire 7500 mile OCI. Back in 09 in the PacNW there was no 5w30 in any brand, nothing, but plenty of 5w20 everywhere in every brand, so GTX 5w20 went in. Ran just as good as the 5w30 for 7500 miles. But that M1 5w30 was just horrible.
My brother buys into all the hype. Ran M1 in a malibu with a 5.3 in it, it clicked and clacked, ran a Equinox he had with M1 and it was a clicking clacking monster. Now he has a 3.5 Eco Boost F150. Ran M1 in that aswell and the noise was terrible, sounded like it was gonna fall apart. Then one day he has turbo problems and 2 months later he has all new everything under warranty replaced and ford gave him a forever service plan as a we are sorry it blew up. Now it has Motor Craft syn blend 5w30 in it and the flipping thing is smooth as can be. He says it is the new rebuilt motor, Im not buying it. His motor runs so flipping quiet now it is very noticeable.
Divorce that oil. Everyone complains about it, especially if you ride a Harley, I can pick out right away the guys who run it by the top end noise. No way I will ever buy it on purpose and I would rather run CHM 10,000 miles and wait for more to get in stock before I ran it. The old oil with 7500 on it will run more smooth.
I got my 01 3.0 Vulcan powered Ranger at the start of the year and it had 5w20 in it, dude I bought it from works at a quick lube. Ran fine on it, till the day I put that truck to work after I fixed some minor issues. That light oil was toast in 2,000 miles. It does not hold up well to hauling and towing (in that motor) at all. I believed my experience in the car would prove it to be fine. Not in a hard worked motor, maybe if it was a point a to point b truck and only ever hauled a pack of smokes and a monster, but I work it. Filled it with CHM 10w30 and with 3,000 miles on the current oil it is not as burnt up as the 5w20 was and I have worked it harder with this oil change than what came in it.
Bottom line is you have to match the oil to the application. In my case M1 did bad in a car that is easy on oil and light viscosity oil in the truck is bad for working it hard every day it sees pavement.
What I dont get after lurking here for years is how everyone defends M1 when people try the koolaid. It uses oil, car never used a drop before, it runs hotter, turns black super fast, motoer runs rough on it, motor sounds like spoons bouncing around the oil pan and valve cover. Then the fanbois pipe up, run it a few OCIs, you get used to the noise, you get used to the consumption. I can only imagine if the coin were reversed and everyone who used M1 forever switched to Castrol and said it uses oil, runs rough, sounds terrible, no oil on dip stick after 3,000 miles. Yall would open the gates of the hate machine right quick.
So the OP noticed what everyone does who tries the koolaid, its no big deal, better oils are out there. Pick one, just dont go back to paying for a mediocre oil and paying a bunch for advertising. Too easy.
Castrol:
Mobil 1:
I could of course put some context and history to the pictures but why bother if we are just tossing out hyperbole and conjecture eh?
I've torn down a number of engines run on Mobil 1, they all were spotless. I've also NEVER had an engine noisier with M1, and that's probably 30+ engines to your three. The 302 in the first set of Mobil 1 pictures has 338,000Km on it, has ZERO bore wear (visible cross hatching still in the bores), factory compression, zero consumption and makes 100+HP more than stock. THAT engine, along with our 425HP built 312 Interceptor were the two engines that proved to me that the product performed.
Oh, and we ran this engine on Mobil 1 too (the 0w-40):
It came apart (again) to get the link-bar lifters installed.
I'm sure GTX is a fine oil (my grandfather used it and VWB because he got it on sale by the case.... It was never any more or less quiet than M1 in the same engine BTW) but some of the anecdotes tossed around here are utterly ridiculous.
Quote:
but some of the anecdotes tossed around here are utterly ridiculous
Like the try it a few OCIs, ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA, the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
but some of the anecdotes tossed around here are utterly ridiculous
Like the try it a few OCIs, ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA, the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Like the try it a few OCIs,
That statement goes with ANY oil when there is initial consumption be it a Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil product. Brand change consumption has been observed on EVERY brand of oil on here.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA,
A UOA now tells us wear does it?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
Or the noise is just in your head
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Or you hear it because you want to hear it, you after all, grew up a "Castrol guy", have to find fault with the competing product right?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
That's ridiculous. You'd throw out perfectly good oil for no reason other than you have some irrational, baseless hatred for it? But no, your views aren't jaded at all and these claims of yours are all just factual observations right?
Guess the rest of us who have never experienced these incredible issues that you've had must have just been lucky right? Same with all the factory race teams, LeMans cars.....etc. Good Lord, I'm shocked at how the products can pass all the extensive manufacturer testing given how bad you seem to think they are.
Like the try it a few OCIs,
That statement goes with ANY oil when there is initial consumption be it a Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil product. Brand change consumption has been observed on EVERY brand of oil on here.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA,
A UOA now tells us wear does it?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
Or the noise is just in your head
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Or you hear it because you want to hear it, you after all, grew up a "Castrol guy", have to find fault with the competing product right?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
That's ridiculous. You'd throw out perfectly good oil for no reason other than you have some irrational, baseless hatred for it? But no, your views aren't jaded at all and these claims of yours are all just factual observations right?
Guess the rest of us who have never experienced these incredible issues that you've had must have just been lucky right? Same with all the factory race teams, LeMans cars.....etc. Good Lord, I'm shocked at how the products can pass all the extensive manufacturer testing given how bad you seem to think they are.
I had a separation from her, but we're back, and the relationship is better than ever.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Like the try it a few OCIs,
That statement goes with ANY oil when there is initial consumption be it a Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil product. Brand change consumption has been observed on EVERY brand of oil on here.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA,
A UOA now tells us wear does it?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
Or the noise is just in your head
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Or you hear it because you want to hear it, you after all, grew up a "Castrol guy", have to find fault with the competing product right?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
That's ridiculous. You'd throw out perfectly good oil for no reason other than you have some irrational, baseless hatred for it? But no, your views aren't jaded at all and these claims of yours are all just factual observations right?
Guess the rest of us who have never experienced these incredible issues that you've had must have just been lucky right? Same with all the factory race teams, LeMans cars.....etc. Good Lord, I'm shocked at how the products can pass all the extensive manufacturer testing given how bad you seem to think they are.
Was way too easy to find this.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2233731
High(er) iron numbers. Viscosity is thicker than when it went in. Same thing as their V twin oil. Higher iron numbers and oil gets thicker.
No thanks, I will not buy oil based on advertisements or to make members of an online forum happy.
I only stated my observations. The UOA wear numbers and thickening oil proof is posted right here.
Like I said, just imagine the hate if Castrol showed increased wear compared to M1 and got thicker with more miles.
I know why it gets thicker. Do you? If you do lets say my CHM got thicker during my OCI, lets ignore the other facts on that other brand for now. Since my oil does not get thicker it will be a hypothetical explaination. Explain to me why my oil will get thicker through chemistry.
I am not saying it is bad, all I am saying is I will never use it based on first of all, experience. Then through observation of others running it and the UOA evidence posted here. Seems like a solid explaination as to why I will never use.
I am happy you are happy with it. Rock on.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Like the try it a few OCIs,
That statement goes with ANY oil when there is initial consumption be it a Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil product. Brand change consumption has been observed on EVERY brand of oil on here.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA,
A UOA now tells us wear does it?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
Or the noise is just in your head
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Or you hear it because you want to hear it, you after all, grew up a "Castrol guy", have to find fault with the competing product right?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
That's ridiculous. You'd throw out perfectly good oil for no reason other than you have some irrational, baseless hatred for it? But no, your views aren't jaded at all and these claims of yours are all just factual observations right?
Guess the rest of us who have never experienced these incredible issues that you've had must have just been lucky right? Same with all the factory race teams, LeMans cars.....etc. Good Lord, I'm shocked at how the products can pass all the extensive manufacturer testing given how bad you seem to think they are.
Was way too easy to find this.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2233731
High(er) iron numbers. Viscosity is thicker than when it went in. Same thing as their V twin oil. Higher iron numbers and oil gets thicker.
No thanks, I will not buy oil based on advertisements or to make members of an online forum happy.
I only stated my observations. The UOA wear numbers and thickening oil proof is posted right here.
Like I said, just imagine the hate if Castrol showed increased wear compared to M1 and got thicker with more miles.
I know why it gets thicker. Do you? If you do lets say my CHM got thicker during my OCI, lets ignore the other facts on that other brand for now. Since my oil does not get thicker it will be a hypothetical explaination. Explain to me why my oil will get thicker through chemistry.
I am not saying it is bad, all I am saying is I will never use it based on first of all, experience. Then through observation of others running it and the UOA evidence posted here. Seems like a solid explaination as to why I will never use.
I am happy you are happy with it. Rock on.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Like the try it a few OCIs,
That statement goes with ANY oil when there is initial consumption be it a Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil product. Brand change consumption has been observed on EVERY brand of oil on here.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA,
A UOA now tells us wear does it?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
Or the noise is just in your head
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Or you hear it because you want to hear it, you after all, grew up a "Castrol guy", have to find fault with the competing product right?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
That's ridiculous. You'd throw out perfectly good oil for no reason other than you have some irrational, baseless hatred for it? But no, your views aren't jaded at all and these claims of yours are all just factual observations right?
Guess the rest of us who have never experienced these incredible issues that you've had must have just been lucky right? Same with all the factory race teams, LeMans cars.....etc. Good Lord, I'm shocked at how the products can pass all the extensive manufacturer testing given how bad you seem to think they are.
Was way too easy to find this.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2233731
High(er) iron numbers. Viscosity is thicker than when it went in. Same thing as their V twin oil. Higher iron numbers and oil gets thicker.
No thanks, I will not buy oil based on advertisements or to make members of an online forum happy.
I only stated my observations. The UOA wear numbers and thickening oil proof is posted right here.
Like I said, just imagine the hate if Castrol showed increased wear compared to M1 and got thicker with more miles.
I know why it gets thicker. Do you? If you do lets say my CHM got thicker during my OCI, lets ignore the other facts on that other brand for now. Since my oil does not get thicker it will be a hypothetical explaination. Explain to me why my oil will get thicker through chemistry.
I am not saying it is bad, all I am saying is I will never use it based on first of all, experience. Then through observation of others running it and the UOA evidence posted here. Seems like a solid explaination as to why I will never use.
I am happy you are happy with it. Rock on.
It is quite impression how so much Wrong can be contained in a single post.
Bravo new guy!
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Like the try it a few OCIs,
That statement goes with ANY oil when there is initial consumption be it a Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil product. Brand change consumption has been observed on EVERY brand of oil on here.
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
ignore the extra wear numbers in your UOA,
A UOA now tells us wear does it?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
the noise will go away (aka you get used to it and the brain cancels it out).
Or the noise is just in your head
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
I hear it all the time, the top end noise, and the excuses the Harley riders I know who make them, to keep filling the motor with it.
Or you hear it because you want to hear it, you after all, grew up a "Castrol guy", have to find fault with the competing product right?
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Just my observations. Nothing more. I will not buy it, and if someone gave it to me, I would take it to the recycler and 50% of it will end up in next gen after the 50% of it that is bad is left out. True story.
That's ridiculous. You'd throw out perfectly good oil for no reason other than you have some irrational, baseless hatred for it? But no, your views aren't jaded at all and these claims of yours are all just factual observations right?
Guess the rest of us who have never experienced these incredible issues that you've had must have just been lucky right? Same with all the factory race teams, LeMans cars.....etc. Good Lord, I'm shocked at how the products can pass all the extensive manufacturer testing given how bad you seem to think they are.
Was way too easy to find this.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2233731
High(er) iron numbers. Viscosity is thicker than when it went in. Same thing as their V twin oil. Higher iron numbers and oil gets thicker.
No thanks, I will not buy oil based on advertisements or to make members of an online forum happy.
I only stated my observations. The UOA wear numbers and thickening oil proof is posted right here.
Like I said, just imagine the hate if Castrol showed increased wear compared to M1 and got thicker with more miles.
I know why it gets thicker. Do you? If you do lets say my CHM got thicker during my OCI, lets ignore the other facts on that other brand for now. Since my oil does not get thicker it will be a hypothetical explaination. Explain to me why my oil will get thicker through chemistry.
I am not saying it is bad, all I am saying is I will never use it based on first of all, experience. Then through observation of others running it and the UOA evidence posted here. Seems like a solid explaination as to why I will never use.
I am happy you are happy with it. Rock on.
It is quite impression how so much Wrong can be contained in a single post.
Bravo new guy!
- Status