distributor cap and rotor replacement

[pbm]

I have never replaced the cap or rotor on my Buick Century with 118K or my Accord with 99K. What is the standard replacement mileage for these?

 

[beast3300]

30k (in general) for distributor caps. If it is a distributor-less ignition Century then there isn't a d-cap to replace.

 

[dwendt44]

Get quality parts. The cheap stuff you find in department stores won't last long.

 

[Gary Allan]

Get the brass stuff at NAPA. Check the box content. I got an aluminum contact rotor in the upgraded echlin box once.

 

[Herz]

I always replace mine with Made in USA Borg Warner (BWD) or OEM and change em out every 100k, never had a problem.

 

[pbm]

I was looking at parts online and I am trying to spend a little more inorder to get free shipping. For the Honda Accord I have a choice between a WELLS and a BOSCH brand cap and rotor. Are either of these any good?

 

[eljefino]

Wells are unmitigated junk.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Wells are unmitigated junk.


+1 add to that garbage, [censored], trash, etc. Go for brass!!!!!!!!

 

[pbm]

Thanks guys..I'll buy a few extra filters to reach the free shipping threshold.

What are your thoughts on when the original thermostat needs changing and are Gates t-stats any good or should I again stick with OE? Thanks

 

[Vikas]

For Honda, stay with OEM ignition parts from dealer. They are not that expensive if you buy it on internet.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: pbm
Thanks guys..I'll buy a few extra filters to reach the free shipping threshold.

What are your thoughts on when the original thermostat needs changing and are Gates t-stats any good or should I again stick with OE? Thanks


I always go OE with thermostats, I've had too many instances where aftermarket T-Stats gave me issues. For the extra few $$ I have peace of mind. YMMV

 

[PandaBear]

No need for OE, I'm using Beck Arnley and it seems fine (rebranded Hitachi). Recommended is 30k miles but I've gone longer with no problem. Check on a regular basis and see if it is "fried" should be sufficient.

 

[mechtech2]

Always get the best PCV valves, thermostats, and cap /rotors for your car.
Not much more , but the quality can be 5 times as good.
At 100k, you are due. Sure, you could clean and dress/file them to eke out more mileage, but no on is shooting at you .

 

[wtd]

I had the brass contacts in an Accel distributor cap that I had on my 98 chevy truck with the 5.7L vortec corrode with only about 20,000 miles on it to the point that the truck would barely run. I've stayed with the factory aluminum since then with no problems.

Wayne

 

[carlprop]

Originally Posted By: wtd
I had the brass contacts in an Accel distributor cap that I had on my 98 chevy truck with the 5.7L vortec corrode with only about 20,000 miles on it to the point that the truck would barely run. I've stayed with the factory aluminum since then with no problems.

Wayne


I also had an Accel distributor cap with brass contacts do the same thing as you discribe. But I also observed that it did not have a vent built-in like some distributor caps. So hard to say if a vent would have prevented the corrosion or not.

 

[PandaBear]

Without a vent the arcing could cause increased ozone inside the distributor and increase wear.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted By: pbm
I was looking at parts online and I am trying to spend a little more inorder to get free shipping. For the Honda Accord I have a choice between a WELLS and a BOSCH brand cap and rotor. Are either of these any good?

Bosch ones are made in Japan by the same company that supplies Beck/Arnley. I used them with no issues.