I'd just get my 4 way lug wrench and check them all. Tighten them all to what feels like the same. Then get my torque wrench and get them all equal at about 75 pounds and call it good. No torque wrench, go back to DT and have them torque them.
Discount Tire FAILURE.
- Thread starter gregk24
- Start date
I think the torque spec depends on the size of the lug bolt.
My 17 Camry lug nut spec is 76 pounds. They may have it right: depends on the lug bolt size.
I've had loose lug nuts twice now... First time I did it myself (Doh!) Second time, just like you, Discount Tire sent me home without torque. Good thing about loose lugs is they tell you about it long before the wheel falls off. I just re-torqued them myself. I later told the tire place about it and they said it was probably two guys working on the same car and each thought the other did the torque.
While I would notice it and Check, my wife or others less attuned to strange new noises might just drive on and that's when wheels come off!
Last edited:
While you’re there, see if you can work out an exchange for those Michelin’s I mentioned.
Yep. There’s a stretch of road I drive on that has bumps/frost heaves placed almost perfectly to essentially rock my truck forward and backward pretty violently at 55mph, and this stretch of road only really does it when it’s below 40F out and gets progressively worse the colder it gets. Our van doesn’t buck nearly as hard.
But definitely check the wheel torque.
Always take a few minutes to check things over yourself when you have work done. Granted sometimes you can't, and have to take the word of the outfit who did the work. But on something as simple as lug nuts, it only takes a couple of minutes to prove to yourself it's been done right. Especially before embarking on a trip somewhere.
Having lived in the Rust Belt of Chicago, where the roads are blessed with salt, along with the corrosion it brings every Winter, I'm a bit anal about lug nuts. I ALWAYS remove each lug nut, apply anti seize to the threads, then torque them to 10% less with a torque wrench. I've never had a lug nut come loose, or seize in over 50 years of driving.
No, you shouldn't have to do these things yourself when you're paying to have someone else do it. But it's the only way you can insure you don't end up having a situation like you had develop.
Having lived in the Rust Belt of Chicago, where the roads are blessed with salt, along with the corrosion it brings every Winter, I'm a bit anal about lug nuts. I ALWAYS remove each lug nut, apply anti seize to the threads, then torque them to 10% less with a torque wrench. I've never had a lug nut come loose, or seize in over 50 years of driving.
No, you shouldn't have to do these things yourself when you're paying to have someone else do it. But it's the only way you can insure you don't end up having a situation like you had develop.
Shel_B
Site Donor 2023
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2020
- Messages
- 5,167
^
This
Never trust anyone when it comes to mounting tires or doing rotations. It’s a good idea to check the torque on every lug nut. You can do it before you leave the shop or as soon as you get home.
I'd raise hell, then fix it myself. It's really sad when you pay good money to have work done, then have to check and often correct it. Sadly I'm not surprised, it seems to be a trend especially with automotive maintenance and repair work. There are some great mechanics out there, a few of them are members here. Having said that for every good mechanic there's probably ten hacks!
The receipt probably also says they should be rechecked after X miles probably 25 or so. It is a CYA ... I would be shocked if they actually think everyone (anyone) is doing it.
I'm not a huge fan of discount tire, they are actually pretty bad at balancing IME, but i have never seen them not use torque sticks AND a torque wrench and I'm the guy who watches their every move on my vehicle and most everyone else's when I'm there. They also usually have very good customer service.
I'm going to go a little against the grain here and say they should fix it, if the wheel is very loose and damaged the studs they should fix that too. I probably would not touch it until they look at it, because that is the evidence.
For the future get yourself the tools to double check, get a harbor freight torque wrench if need be it is not that much. CDI can be had on Amazon if you want the good stuff.
Stuff does happen people make mistakes and it is true that in a perfect world lug nuts would get rechecked after a good heat up and cool down... they do come loose infrequently even if properly installed.
I always recheck them after 50 or so miles... I am sure that in the realm of John Q Public I am in a minuscule percent that do so...
Finally - the measure of customer service is not if there is a problem - it is how they handle the problem.
I'm not a huge fan of discount tire, they are actually pretty bad at balancing IME, but i have never seen them not use torque sticks AND a torque wrench and I'm the guy who watches their every move on my vehicle and most everyone else's when I'm there. They also usually have very good customer service.
I'm going to go a little against the grain here and say they should fix it, if the wheel is very loose and damaged the studs they should fix that too. I probably would not touch it until they look at it, because that is the evidence.
For the future get yourself the tools to double check, get a harbor freight torque wrench if need be it is not that much. CDI can be had on Amazon if you want the good stuff.
Stuff does happen people make mistakes and it is true that in a perfect world lug nuts would get rechecked after a good heat up and cool down... they do come loose infrequently even if properly installed.
I always recheck them after 50 or so miles... I am sure that in the realm of John Q Public I am in a minuscule percent that do so...
Finally - the measure of customer service is not if there is a problem - it is how they handle the problem.
I've had not one, but two prii develop loose lug nuts. They had perfect (dry) studs and nuts. Alloy wheels with the "washer" style nuts. I think a "cone" nut would dig into the wheel more and stay put. Re-torqued both and had no issues after. And one was not immediately after any wheel service, the other was ~100 miles later.
Your receipt says you need to re-check your torque after a distance, and I bet your owners manual does too. DT will do it for free but it's so easy you can and should DIY with the wrench in your trunk. Getting the torque EVEN across all 5 nuts is important for not warping rotors.
You aren't going to teach them any lessons by having the car towed in. You can certainly call them with the info from your receipt, they might have a flaky tech and this would bring this to their attention. But the odds are slim, IMO.
As for mystery vibrations, snow or ice in the wheel can do it, then it goes away when it melts.
Your receipt says you need to re-check your torque after a distance, and I bet your owners manual does too. DT will do it for free but it's so easy you can and should DIY with the wrench in your trunk. Getting the torque EVEN across all 5 nuts is important for not warping rotors.
You aren't going to teach them any lessons by having the car towed in. You can certainly call them with the info from your receipt, they might have a flaky tech and this would bring this to their attention. But the odds are slim, IMO.
As for mystery vibrations, snow or ice in the wheel can do it, then it goes away when it melts.
Also agree with Critic while it is back get them to put some michelins on it, since they now own tire rack use it against them, Cross climate 2 set of 4 with road hazard 591.96, T+H set of 4 with road hazard 559.96
Have shop check all four corners and ask for refund on the install.
JHZR2
Staff member
Most folks just tighten with the lug wrench and move on if they replace a tire. It works well enough.
Id tighten them reasonably with the car‘s lug wrench, and then go there and demand a loosen and retorque with a proper wrench.
I picked up a fire truck ariel from the city garage one day and almost made back to its station when one of the wheels passed me at a red light. Several lug nuts were loose and the scrubbing force that happens when the double axels turn sheers off all the lug bolts sending that huge wheel down the street.
Other mishaps from that garage included a water separator filter left in the engine bay that got caught in the belts and fan blades wreaking havoc in the engine bay and on another fire engine a couple shop towels left in the bay that ended up against the turbo and catching fire on an interstate tractor trailer wreck.
I would have the lug bolts checked too if they nuts were indeed loose.
Other mishaps from that garage included a water separator filter left in the engine bay that got caught in the belts and fan blades wreaking havoc in the engine bay and on another fire engine a couple shop towels left in the bay that ended up against the turbo and catching fire on an interstate tractor trailer wreck.
I would have the lug bolts checked too if they nuts were indeed loose.
Doing a quick google of your 2000 Ford Taurus shows that if you have the 15" wheels, that is the correct torque specs. Now, if they actually did that is a different story.
I still say that this is a good excuse to buy a tool that can come in handy.
Greg, unless the studs are new I see no reason having to re-torque the wheels between tire rotations. I think your best plan is to take it back and have them re-torque everything. BTW, there is no shame in not having your own tools. OTOH, this might be a good reason to shop around for a cheap torque wrench.
I checked last night. Turns out I do, just not a torque wrench. I had one years ago but much have got lost in the move to our house.
Wondering if DT could have lightly stripped a 20 year old lug bolt that only becomes noticeable as you drive the car.
