With the two cars I drive in my sig the yaris and del sol, I average maybe 5k or less in a year each. I put 4,600 on the yaris on a 1yr OCI with ST syn and a little over 5k on the del sol. With the improvment of PYB getting a good shot of moly from SN I havent seen the need to buy PP or PU anymore and Im looking into sticking with dino juice from now on. Ive already got 4 gallons of VWB I ordered from amazon.com for $19.99 w/ free 2 day shipping (thanks to 05hemiramqc who posted that link!!!) and I am curious to know if anyone here would do a year on dino with low mileage and be able to sleep at night? Please give me some imput.
dino for a year OCI?
- Thread starter yaris0128
- Start date
- Status
I am very conservative and I wouldn't do synthetic for a year. I know people often do and change the oil in the Spring.
Do it all the time with more mileage and an older car, don't worry about it.
I have never gone a year on Dino due to the severe driving conditions where I live. But if have very low mile and not a lot of short trips and stop and go traffic it would be interesting to see if it would work out for your application. PYB is some great oil but it is still not as great as PP or PU. If you have any PU or PP left over you may want to add a quart to each OCI. Who knows...with the addition of 1 quart to your fill you may make it with ease and sleep well at night.
I probably should have noted that 100% of the delsol is highway miles. I refuse to do anything but with that car. And its about 75% highway with the yaris.
I think you're ahead of the curve. The SN PYB will probably prove to be an easy choice for a 1 year 5000 mile oci. It may take a few UOA posts to document. With the only exceptions for sludgers, certain Toyotas, 2.7 Chrysler's. VW/Audi.
With more than 50% high way miles, I don't see a problem going a year/12 months on dino....have no fear.
If you happen to make any "city traffic" trips where the car doesn't completely warm up, consider taking the "long route" around town to get where you need to go, just so that the car gets fully warmed up, and you don't have to worry about fuel dilution from the short trips. But even so, if you jump on the highway for at least 20-30 minutes a week, that should burn up any possible fuel that could make it's way into the oil..
If you happen to make any "city traffic" trips where the car doesn't completely warm up, consider taking the "long route" around town to get where you need to go, just so that the car gets fully warmed up, and you don't have to worry about fuel dilution from the short trips. But even so, if you jump on the highway for at least 20-30 minutes a week, that should burn up any possible fuel that could make it's way into the oil..
You should be good with quality dino + filter. I don't think I would use a ST filter that long.
I also don't see a need for UOA. It would cost more, and be more of a hassle than another dino OCI in this case.
I also don't see a need for UOA. It would cost more, and be more of a hassle than another dino OCI in this case.
What do the manufacturer's recommend? That's always a good place to begin.
Do you do a lot of cold start/short trip driving? A lot of driving under dusty conditions? If so, then use the manufacturer's severe service recommendations.
Asking what other people would do is sure to get you a bunch of opinions. However, opinions are like nostrils. Most of us have a couple of them, but they're usually not very pretty.
Do you do a lot of cold start/short trip driving? A lot of driving under dusty conditions? If so, then use the manufacturer's severe service recommendations.
Asking what other people would do is sure to get you a bunch of opinions. However, opinions are like nostrils. Most of us have a couple of them, but they're usually not very pretty.
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
With the two cars I drive in my sig the yaris and del sol, I average maybe 5k or less in a year each. I put 4,600 on the yaris on a 1yr OCI with ST syn and a little over 5k on the del sol. With the improvment of PYB getting a good shot of moly from SN I havent seen the need to buy PP or PU anymore and Im looking into sticking with dino juice from now on. Ive already got 4 gallons of VWB I ordered from amazon.com for $19.99 w/ free 2 day shipping (thanks to 05hemiramqc who posted that link!!!) and I am curious to know if anyone here would do a year on dino with low mileage and be able to sleep at night? Please give me some imput.
Go for it
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
With the two cars I drive in my sig the yaris and del sol, I average maybe 5k or less in a year each. I put 4,600 on the yaris on a 1yr OCI with ST syn and a little over 5k on the del sol. With the improvment of PYB getting a good shot of moly from SN I havent seen the need to buy PP or PU anymore and Im looking into sticking with dino juice from now on. Ive already got 4 gallons of VWB I ordered from amazon.com for $19.99 w/ free 2 day shipping (thanks to 05hemiramqc who posted that link!!!) and I am curious to know if anyone here would do a year on dino with low mileage and be able to sleep at night? Please give me some imput.
Go for it
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
And what exactly does your picture indicate?
How does that picture apply to this conversation?
Looks like a SBC, or similar engine.
BC.
How does that picture apply to this conversation?
Looks like a SBC, or similar engine.
BC.
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
With the two cars I drive in my sig the yaris and del sol, I average maybe 5k or less in a year each. I put 4,600 on the yaris on a 1yr OCI with ST syn and a little over 5k on the del sol. With the improvment of PYB getting a good shot of moly from SN I havent seen the need to buy PP or PU anymore and Im looking into sticking with dino juice from now on. Ive already got 4 gallons of VWB I ordered from amazon.com for $19.99 w/ free 2 day shipping (thanks to 05hemiramqc who posted that link!!!) and I am curious to know if anyone here would do a year on dino with low mileage and be able to sleep at night? Please give me some imput.
Based on some guesses on you MPG for each car....I would estimate that you will spend anywhere between $500 to $600 on gas each year for each vehicle.
....And the difference in dollars between a quality conventional oil and a quality synthetic (PP or M-1 in 5 quat jugs) is maybe, at most $10.....IMHO it doesn't make economic sense to do conventionl....when a synthetic has many advantges over conventional....especially in the short 5000 miles you put on each vehicle each year.... I mean $10 a year per vehicle per year...come on. Makes no sense at all....and you know for sure that a synthetic will easily go for one year OCI's.
Stick with a quality synthetic....remember...oil is cheap compared to other vehicle expenses.
With the two cars I drive in my sig the yaris and del sol, I average maybe 5k or less in a year each. I put 4,600 on the yaris on a 1yr OCI with ST syn and a little over 5k on the del sol. With the improvment of PYB getting a good shot of moly from SN I havent seen the need to buy PP or PU anymore and Im looking into sticking with dino juice from now on. Ive already got 4 gallons of VWB I ordered from amazon.com for $19.99 w/ free 2 day shipping (thanks to 05hemiramqc who posted that link!!!) and I am curious to know if anyone here would do a year on dino with low mileage and be able to sleep at night? Please give me some imput.
Based on some guesses on you MPG for each car....I would estimate that you will spend anywhere between $500 to $600 on gas each year for each vehicle.
....And the difference in dollars between a quality conventional oil and a quality synthetic (PP or M-1 in 5 quat jugs) is maybe, at most $10.....IMHO it doesn't make economic sense to do conventionl....when a synthetic has many advantges over conventional....especially in the short 5000 miles you put on each vehicle each year.... I mean $10 a year per vehicle per year...come on. Makes no sense at all....and you know for sure that a synthetic will easily go for one year OCI's.
Stick with a quality synthetic....remember...oil is cheap compared to other vehicle expenses.
You need to change it at least every 3k if not that no more than every 6 months. Oil gets a beaten even when the engine isn't ran. Water build up just to name one of them. Use a good conventional and just change it every 3k or every 3 to 6 months and sleep well at night knowing you don't have any surprises in a few years. Remember oil is cheap compared to an engine replacement that probably won't be covered under any warranty especially if theres a reason for neglect such as the picture above of someone who either used Pennzoil/Quick mistake or didn't change the oil in it at all.
I remember someone here posted a UOA indicating that have the oil sitting in the oil pan for a long time is not as bad as most people thinks. (Can someone pull that post?) Plus, OP's car is not just sitting there forever, he does drive it on the freeway.
And the 3K thing, I really don't what to say...
I mean one can substitute 3k with 2.5, 2 or any other integer.
I think 1 year with Dino these days is fine. I personally will do it if I fall into the same situation as OP. I always go with manual, manual say change oil according to OLM, i will follow, but manual also states change oil regardless of milegae in 1 year, i will follow too.
Either way chances are OP's engine will outlast the entire car.
And the 3K thing, I really don't what to say...
I mean one can substitute 3k with 2.5, 2 or any other integer.
I think 1 year with Dino these days is fine. I personally will do it if I fall into the same situation as OP. I always go with manual, manual say change oil according to OLM, i will follow, but manual also states change oil regardless of milegae in 1 year, i will follow too.
Either way chances are OP's engine will outlast the entire car.
Wow. I wish I had taken pics of the valve cover of my 42 year old, 8300 hour Farmall tractor when I adjusted the valves. It barely had any varnish, let alone sludge, and it sits most of the time. It get three year oil changes (verified by UOA) and based on some things I found when I got the tractor seven years ago, such as a hydraulic oil filter with 1980s date codes, the oil changes in it's past may not have been even that frequent.
Posting that undocumented, unattributed pic as some kind of evidence is disingenuous. Doesn't prove a dang thing.
Take it to the bank, in most conditions, the oil can barely tell the passage of time.
Before you newbs start arguing with me, go back and search this topic or go back and read some of my older posts on long OCIs, with UOA documentation. It will connect you with a whole lot of data (from me and many others) and not old wive's tales. We had some very long and fruitful discussions on this in the past and there has been a lot of great info posted. It's well worth the time to search it out. I regularly do 18 month to two year OCIs on a Honda and Ford truck (with UOAs) as well as two and three year OCIs on various farm equipment and small engines. There are a number of others here with similar setups.
VR1: A friendly word of advice. Don't bring up the Pennzoil/Sludge thing again without your best flame suit on. The first time gets you laughed at... a grace period. After that... whoosh... your hair and eyebrows are gone. ( : < ).
Posting that undocumented, unattributed pic as some kind of evidence is disingenuous. Doesn't prove a dang thing.
Take it to the bank, in most conditions, the oil can barely tell the passage of time.
Before you newbs start arguing with me, go back and search this topic or go back and read some of my older posts on long OCIs, with UOA documentation. It will connect you with a whole lot of data (from me and many others) and not old wive's tales. We had some very long and fruitful discussions on this in the past and there has been a lot of great info posted. It's well worth the time to search it out. I regularly do 18 month to two year OCIs on a Honda and Ford truck (with UOAs) as well as two and three year OCIs on various farm equipment and small engines. There are a number of others here with similar setups.
VR1: A friendly word of advice. Don't bring up the Pennzoil/Sludge thing again without your best flame suit on. The first time gets you laughed at... a grace period. After that... whoosh... your hair and eyebrows are gone. ( : < ).
Originally Posted By: VR1
You need to change it at least every 3k if not that no more than every 6 months.
Drink the coolaid. Every 3K is a waste.
Welcome to 2011.
Any quality dino can handle his 1 YEAR / 5K mile interval
I run my Jeep to 1 year and it gets beaten worse than most vehicles here. IIRC, there was a gentleman who ran his Toyota pickup out to two years and his UOA was fine.
You need to change it at least every 3k if not that no more than every 6 months.
Welcome to 2011.
Any quality dino can handle his 1 YEAR / 5K mile interval
I run my Jeep to 1 year and it gets beaten worse than most vehicles here. IIRC, there was a gentleman who ran his Toyota pickup out to two years and his UOA was fine.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
VR1: A friendly word of advice. Don't bring up the Pennzoil/Sludge thing again without your best flame suit on. The first time gets you laughed at... a grace period. After that... whoosh... your hair and eyebrows are gone. ( : < ).
X2.
VR1: A friendly word of advice. Don't bring up the Pennzoil/Sludge thing again without your best flame suit on. The first time gets you laughed at... a grace period. After that... whoosh... your hair and eyebrows are gone. ( : < ).
X2.
Well if its a waste I enjoy my vehicles and equipment everyday and know that no matter what I will get the most out of all my stuff. I can rest assured I did all I could to take care of my things. If you want to reinvent the wheel and change it at some odd mileage or do what some [censored] at Jiffy Lube or some dip down the street told you then by all means. Me I have driven two vehicles well beyond 200k with no drivetrain problems what so ever. Just my two. O and the Pennzoil and QS well lets just say I would never use it.
Originally Posted By: VR1
You need to change it at least every 3k if not that no more than every 6 months. Oil gets a beaten even when the engine isn't ran. Water build up just to name one of them. Use a good conventional and just change it every 3k or every 3 to 6 months and sleep well at night knowing you don't have any surprises in a few years. Remember oil is cheap compared to an engine replacement that probably won't be covered under any warranty especially if theres a reason for neglect such as the picture above of someone who either used Pennzoil/Quick mistake or didn't change the oil in it at all.
Another one of those opinions I was talking about.
According to the Toyota engineers who designed the Yaris, your OCI is 5K miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Unless you're going to do UOAs, I'd recommend you stick to this schedule.
You need to change it at least every 3k if not that no more than every 6 months. Oil gets a beaten even when the engine isn't ran. Water build up just to name one of them. Use a good conventional and just change it every 3k or every 3 to 6 months and sleep well at night knowing you don't have any surprises in a few years. Remember oil is cheap compared to an engine replacement that probably won't be covered under any warranty especially if theres a reason for neglect such as the picture above of someone who either used Pennzoil/Quick mistake or didn't change the oil in it at all.
Another one of those opinions I was talking about.
According to the Toyota engineers who designed the Yaris, your OCI is 5K miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Unless you're going to do UOAs, I'd recommend you stick to this schedule.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
