I just fixed the loose steering in a 265 - not only were the bushings that the pivot pin rides in toast, but the pin was worn all to heck too. I replaced the bushings and made a new pin out of... 1" or 1 1/8" CRR. I cut the flange off the old pin, threaded the cold rold round and re-welded the flange to the new round... Now the mower steers MUCH better!
Digging back into my John Deere garden tractor
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I have a parts 260 I had to buy that shows the hour meter a bit over 1000 hours but it looked like it was in better condition overall than this one so I might be able to salvage from it. The hour meter was gone on the one I'm fixing up although I did install one on the front panel. Over the years working on this it's a hit or miss on obsolete parts from JD. Just ordered a NOS governor gear, from eBay, that's NLA as an example.
Good news it looks like #4 bushings are still available. So you already know that JD wants $86 for #9.
That's what it sounds like you made up by cutting the flat end off then re-welding it to some new CR stock pipe. Nice work! Unfortunately, I don't have a cutting torch & welder but I've been seriously thinking about getting one the last few years. I've been really eyeballing those 265's as another restore project. These gears are great for reliability but that hydrostat would be easier to mow with for my 0.53 acre lot. Geared tractors are good for wide open areas but I just couldn't resist the urge to fix this thing up right. Hopefully the parts mower one would be in better condition if I had to swap them. That is really helpful information if I need to though. Thank you!Yep, that's exactly what I replaced/made. I was thinking more on it and I'm pretty sure that it was 1 1/8" CRR, not 1". I would have bought the pin, but I was in a hurry to get it back together and back to it's owner and didn't want to wait..I have a parts 260 I had to buy that shows the hour meter a bit over 1000 hours but it looked like it was in better condition overall than this one so I might be able to salvage from it. The hour meter was gone on the one I'm fixing up although I did install one on the front panel. Over the years working on this it's a hit or miss on obsolete parts from JD. Just ordered a NOS governor gear, from eBay, that's NLA as an example.
View attachment 232542
Good news it looks like #4 bushings are still available. So you already know that JD wants $86 for #9.
View attachment 232541
This particular 265 was abused severely and not well maintained.. The deck had been cracked and welded in several places, with several more cracks in other places.. ALL the pivots and linkage attachments points are severely ovaled out and or literally half worn through! The axle pivot bushing and pin were so worn that it was like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.. it was comical how far the axle and tires moved front to back when you'd turn the steering wheel! You really didn't steer this thing so much as herded it!
Brand New reciprocating shaft & a new bushing pressed into the reciprocating counter weight. The engine shop didn't even charge me for the 5 min. job.
New shaft, shown above, in position w/new bushing on the counterweight below.
Had to sit the engine sideways to get the flat tappets & pushrods to stay in place while I put the camshaft back in. Put the two timing dots together.
I still see some of my cheap Autozone deglaze stones showing some crosshatching.
Other than getting a new governor gear (plastic), & many other small things you have to remember, I put it all back together today. Poured some 15w-40 Super Tech HDEO FS in which takes an oddball 1.9 quarts I had to measure out. Fired it up & took it around the yard & no more engine knock! Success! Now I know to not to put parts that are out of specification in during rebuild. Some parts may get away with while other cause a knock.
Here's the second UOA I did on this engine while it was knocking. Hopefully, metals will come down now after an oil change or two.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/john-deere-260-kawasaki-17-hp-4-7-hours.385883/
New shaft, shown above, in position w/new bushing on the counterweight below.
I still see some of my cheap Autozone deglaze stones showing some crosshatching.
Other than getting a new governor gear (plastic), & many other small things you have to remember, I put it all back together today. Poured some 15w-40 Super Tech HDEO FS in which takes an oddball 1.9 quarts I had to measure out. Fired it up & took it around the yard & no more engine knock! Success! Now I know to not to put parts that are out of specification in during rebuild. Some parts may get away with while other cause a knock.
Here's the second UOA I did on this engine while it was knocking. Hopefully, metals will come down now after an oil change or two.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/john-deere-260-kawasaki-17-hp-4-7-hours.385883/
ruh row
When I look at my pic the one of the left looks correct but the middle & right side blades do appear to be upside down. Yes, I've mowed already. I have the deck off right now so real easy for me to check in the morning. They should all have the winged curve towards the mower deck top. Good eye & I'll post back my findings tomorrow. Thanks
That looks like my '99 17hp F510 motor.Brand New reciprocating shaft & a new bushing pressed into the reciprocating counter weight. The engine shop didn't even charge me for the 5 min. job.
View attachment 233806
New shaft, shown above, in position w/new bushing on the counterweight below.
View attachment 233807Had to sit the engine sideways to get the flat tappets & pushrods to stay in place while I put the camshaft back in. Put the two timing dots together.
View attachment 233811
View attachment 233810
I still see some of my cheap Autozone deglaze stones showing some crosshatching.
View attachment 233812
Other than getting a new governor gear (plastic), & many other small things you have to remember, I put it all back together today. Poured some 15w-40 Super Tech HDEO FS in which takes an oddball 1.9 quarts I had to measure out. Fired it up & took it around the yard & no more engine knock! Success! Now I know to not to put parts that are out of specification in during rebuild. Some parts may get away with while other cause a knock.
View attachment 233814
Here's the second UOA I did on this engine while it was knocking. Hopefully, metals will come down now after an oil change or two.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/john-deere-260-kawasaki-17-hp-4-7-hours.385883/
Yep, those of the same K Engine family. Did you repower it w/17 since I thought the 525 only came w/17. Been watching YT on those mowers you have. Zero Turn's older brother deserves some respect.
No mine is the smaller 14 hp. Does your have the hydraulic unit on the bottom for the oil pan?Yep, those of the same K Engine family. Did you repower it w/17 since I thought the 525 only came w/17. Been watching YT on those mowers you have. Zero Turn's older brother deserves some respect.
I thought so. No, these garden tractor engines were not like your style where hydraulic is attached to engine. This is a 6 speed geared tractor not hydraulic at all. The closest garden tractor with that 14 HP was came with a separate hydrostat transaxle and that would be the 245. 17 HP would be 265.
The motor on the F510, PA420A, is also used on other JD equipment in different configurations. The crankcase on the F510/525 is also the hydraulic unit and a somewhat shared sump with the engine oil. When I looked for a used head for the thing it came off a FC420V from a rider.
Really a unique engine and has been pretty much bullet proof despite my mistreatments. Just replaced the OE coil with a no name. It does sometimes blow a lot of smoke on startup and always has. This clears up and no oil is usually added. Leaks more than it burns for the want of an oring.
My biggest failure was not cleaning the cooling fins and never adjusting the valves.
I didn't know they used that set-up on other equipment. I'm used to seeing the FC420V 14 HP though. Interesting versions they had on these K series. I too purchased a no name brand coil "Partsrun" LOL. I have all new charging system/spark & everything is getting along. I did notice that when I took the mower out that the no name brand "Kipa" carburetor fuel shut off seems to work again. I added a carb ground wire under the hopes that was the problem. I'd imagine that you have to mow weekly w/that mower? I think Kawasaki did a great job w/our metal tins covering the engine to keep debris out but yeah I've been doing it every 75 hours on my Craftsman to prevent total blockage. ha! If you don't have an eBay Technical Service manual then I recommend getting one. It's been pretty helpful for the machine as a whole. I will stress this.. What I've found out the hard way was don't always trust the John Deere parts diagram breakdown orientation of parts. Luckily the John Deere service manual gives you some details here & there that will say what to do. I was surprised by that but the parts diagrams are just that & overall seem to be close on orientation of parts on most things just not everything LOL.
I'm Busted! You were spot on, good eye, and two of the three were upside down. I'm pretty analytical and tedious about doing everything the right way but this one slipped by
.Flipped them over to correct orientation and wife and I cleaned some grass off while we were there.
Example left is correct but right side is not.
Corrected
I do have a service manual and parts diagrams. But have seldom need it. The deck is what has worn and I'm on my second one. But it's not used for mowing anymore, just hauling and it does a good job of that. I drag logs around with it and the front mower is good for pushing and rolling them. That and a 10 cu ft cart. On my 4th mulch pile for the year.
It a slow mower. I'm thinking of putting some taller/bigger tires on it. I could go an inch I think. Better traction too I would hope. Currently 18-8.50
How many hours on that 14 hp? The hour meter was removed when I got this one & the engine knock is why the engine was removed from the tractor but it was worn out w/original deck patched up all over. Rust still eventually got it & it went to the scrap yard first thing.
The hour meter broke at 140 hrs or so. I mowed about 26 times a year at 2 hrs a mow I figured at 24 years. So plus 1000 hrs before failure. I use it more than 2 hrs a week now but it's all stop and start.
Always used M1 0w40 or 5w40, but now on 5w30 HM.
The deck never rusted out but the front wheel bushings and bolts all were loose so I swapped it with one I found on eBay but just 10 miles away. Rebuilt the spindles once.
Had a 185 with the single 17 motor, it was LOUD but I never was able to hurt it.
Wow, that meter didn't last long. 1000 hours seems to be a general long life out of these single cylinder engines. You're certainly getting use out of yours.
From my experience an engine knock makes it even more "loud".
But I agree and that is what I have noticed. Makes my 24 HP B&S sound quiet. Those 185's seem to be good mowers.
When I decided I'd had enough of MTD mowers and wanted a John Deere I went to buy the F510 at the local dealer. Unbeknown to me it was the last year of production and they weren't a well designed machine being JDs first shot at Front mower or predecessor the Zero Turn jobs.. Well built but as flaws, traction and slow speed being the two biggest. Faster speed would beat you to death though.
But they would not order one for me. Said they didn't want to be saddled with it when I traded it in. So I went over to Indiana to a JD dealer about 40 miles away. They gladly ordered one. Got it a week after the order fresh off the line in Moline, IL and delivered for free. $1200 less that the list price. That was 25 years ago.
But they would not order one for me. Said they didn't want to be saddled with it when I traded it in. So I went over to Indiana to a JD dealer about 40 miles away. They gladly ordered one. Got it a week after the order fresh off the line in Moline, IL and delivered for free. $1200 less that the list price. That was 25 years ago.
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