Difference in battery or difference in warranty?

[JeffKeryk]

Will they code the new battery to the car?

No. No questions asked upon return within warranty period. I brought back a TSX (small size due to tight engine bay) battery, had no receipt. Looked me up on computer, told me I had about 2 weeks left, pulled a new one off the shelf, put it in my cart and said thank you.

I recently helped a neighbor with a dead battery in her Odyssey. Went to Costco, grabbed a battery and asked them about warranty for a neighbor (also a Costco member). They told me I would have to accompany any warranty claim.

 

[RaymondP]

Don't think anyone including Costco will code/register a new battery if they replace your battery. This includes O'Rielys and similar retail chains. Not sure I would trust them going in there anyway. Will have to visit the dealer or more specialist shop that has the tool(s) for registration/coding. If new battery is same as old spec. you can buy the more advanced but somewhat affordable OBD 2 scanners that have the registration capability. My understanding is that coding requires more sophisticated equipment to code, but I know others have used plug in devices working with their phones that have this capability. Leads me to invite others to comment on experience and recommendations?

 

[Touring5]

To piggyback on this thread: I just went through the same situation (even the same group 35 size battery).

First I started shopping around online. Interestingly when I searched the walmart site for group 35 car battery, the only everstart shown was the "value" battery. I looked into the Costco battery and then thought about whether I'd still be a member in a year or two. Oddly, when I did a search for group 35 car battery on googel, the first result from walmart was the everstart maxx. I wanted to check availability the next day and searched the walmart site - no maxx version shown. Then did the googel search, clicked the walmart link and there it was with 1 in stock nearby. Went to that store and it had a "11/22" sticker on it and I bought it. Not sure if it was a glitch on the walmart site search or what but I've seen a lot of weirdness in the past.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I have returned several batteries to walmart as carry ins - no questions - just date. If you have a receipt its easier, but if they actually put your phone number in properly the first time they can look it up.

As for coding the battery, I don't have a rig that requires it but did read some things about it - when I was foolishly thinking about buying a vehicle with start / stop - then I changed my mind. You can buy a code reader that does it now for under $100 - and there are a bunch of youtube vids for anyone interested - looks simple enough. My guess is it simply triggers the the system to relearn the new battery, and also stores the new battery serial number - I would guess so the OEM can blame you later if something stops working.

 

[RaymondP]

I don't think battery registration and coding necessarily correlates with Start/Stop on all vehicles. My 2016 BMW with Start/Stop needs it, while the late model Merc SUV does NOT, although it also has the Start/Stop feature.

A lot of confusion on this issue. Two parts: 1. Registration only needed for a new battery that has same spec as installed. 2. Coding, needed as well as registration, if you are installing a new battery with different spec to the battery currently installed.

I have noticed on the YouTube videos the coding capability seems limited on the phone app type bluetooth/phone devices. They mention coding with the Ah closest but lower than spec. if a direct match is not shown on the device or available. So, for instance, a 95 Ah newly installed battery would be coded as a 90 Ah battery (closest). My installed battery is 92 Ah, but same size replacement options all seem to be 95 Ah, 3 Ah higher. Thinking it best not to be concerned and just register battery as a direct replacement, and not worry about the higher Ah and recoding.

Appreciate input from others with more knowledge/expertise on this issue. Will I be compromising the new battery by NOT coding?

 

[bbhero]

One of the major battery retailers used to offer three different levels of battery. According to their rep they all came off the same line and the only difference was the sticker they put on the case. The cost difference was because of the difference in how long the company was on the hook should it go bad. You were paying for a difference in warranty not a difference in quality.

Since the plus battery isn't much heavier there's no reason to believe it's built with better materials/thicker plates/etc.

I spoke to a East Penn battery representative and he told me the exact same thing ... Same batteries with just different stickers in them. Aka Deka, Napa, Duracell, Federated Auto Parts etc etc...

And he's definitely right about that happening.

Was a time wheee the Valuepower group 24f weighed 41 pounds which correlated with East Penn's group 24f 624fmf Gold series battery. Which meant getting a Valuepower group 24f you were getting a higher tier battery for only $50. Now that was a heck a deal there.