Thanks for the link, yeah that's the prescribed antidote, I wonder what's best to fill it with for valve protection that's readily available, I see it's intended for MMO, I wondered whether just 2 stroke (is TCW3 different?) or even bio/diesel would be effective and whether initially added to the gasoline tank mite suffice?
Diesel as a UCL in petrol.
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Subarus aren't the best of the best vehicles.
UCL should be found sitting right next to Blinker Fluid on the shelf labeled "BS Products".
Whats the Make and Model of the vehicle in question?
Are you operating the engine on propane?
I've seen a propane retrofit before. It's apparently cheaper than gasoline (depending on current prices), but takes up a ton of volume. I found that out when riding a taxi in Asia and trying to cram my luggage into a trunk where half the volume was taken up by a supplemental tank.
Yeah I've converted it to run on propane which burns dryer and hotter and can be hard on valve/seats hence why I'm asking for any valve care tips/ideas.
(The cost for Lpg ie. propane can be 40% of petroleum here in the UK with almost the same mpg, so there are savings to be made, it doesn't have to take up that much space you can get tanks that fit in the spare wheel well instead of a tyre, they do weigh a bit, but you don't have to carry much petrol to offset that, there's not actually that many extra components you 've got to fit in the engine bay)
(The cost for Lpg ie. propane can be 40% of petroleum here in the UK with almost the same mpg, so there are savings to be made, it doesn't have to take up that much space you can get tanks that fit in the spare wheel well instead of a tyre, they do weigh a bit, but you don't have to carry much petrol to offset that, there's not actually that many extra components you 've got to fit in the engine bay)
TCW3 and Marvel Mystery Oil is what I would use in the fuel tank. I also mix them sometimes, you know for fun.
It's for marine 2-stroke engines, but it's available around the world from different companies.
An image link to a PDF only shows the first page, but even then there are a lot of European brands represented.
This claims to be TC-W3 compliant, but it doesn't seem to have the registered trademark.
MANNOL Outboard Marine API TD, 4 Litres : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
Buy MANNOL Outboard Marine API TD, 4 Litres at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.
www.amazon.co.uk
Or something like this, which is on the approved list.
CASTROL OUTBOARD 2T
Castrol Outboard 2T is a mineral based, superior performance engine oil designed for watercooled 2-stroke outboard engines.
www.broughtonlubricants.co.uk
Marine Fully Synthetic Gear Oil GL4/GL5 75W-90
Fully synthetic high-performance gear oil with extremely high performance reserves. Ensures assemblies function perfectly, even under extreme operating conditions and when exposed to large temperature fluctuations. Meets the requirements for API GL4 and GL5 performance categories and corresponds...
Marine 2T Motor Oil
Effektiv 2-takt-motorolie på basis af udvalgt basisolier og særlige additiver. Sørger for sikker smøring, stor driftssikkerhed og fremragende beskyttelse mod slitage og rust.
So wait isn’t the vehicle running on propane? Isn’t that when you supposedly need the UCL?
I've heard one thesis that ash in burned oil has some "pillow" dampening effect between seats and valves.
it may make sense, because lead replacement and "flashlube" are chemically similar things :
Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl - Wikipedia
Thanks for the replies and links, so TCW3 is in some way superior and more appropriate than regular motorcycle 2 stroke as a UCL in car engines?
And yes, the recommended way of 'prolonging ' valve/seat life (I don't think anythings a complete cure anyway) for some proner engines running on propane is to have a pre oiler fitted into the intake, like the ampco one earlier in the thread, to have a flashlube (yeah presumably it's a n alternative lead replacement additive in a carrier light pale base oil or something) that basically slowly drips oil into the inlet tracts.
You could in fact drip anything into there instead/as well as flashlube, TCW3, MMO, ATF, diesel, kerosene, water?
It would be good to get something onto the valves that would have a similar cushioning effect like TEL used to.
Problems are that on some engines it's more involved infusing the oil into the manifold, and some kits work on vacuum which isn't that efficient at higher rpm s when you need it and they're are electronic kits which are harder to set-up for the drip feed.
And yeah, it's when you're actually running on propane that you need it really.
At the moment, I'm just limiting my revs when on propane and switching back to gasoline temporarily during load and prolonged running for periods to keep the temperature down.
And yes, the recommended way of 'prolonging ' valve/seat life (I don't think anythings a complete cure anyway) for some proner engines running on propane is to have a pre oiler fitted into the intake, like the ampco one earlier in the thread, to have a flashlube (yeah presumably it's a n alternative lead replacement additive in a carrier light pale base oil or something) that basically slowly drips oil into the inlet tracts.
You could in fact drip anything into there instead/as well as flashlube, TCW3, MMO, ATF, diesel, kerosene, water?
It would be good to get something onto the valves that would have a similar cushioning effect like TEL used to.
Problems are that on some engines it's more involved infusing the oil into the manifold, and some kits work on vacuum which isn't that efficient at higher rpm s when you need it and they're are electronic kits which are harder to set-up for the drip feed.
And yeah, it's when you're actually running on propane that you need it really.
At the moment, I'm just limiting my revs when on propane and switching back to gasoline temporarily during load and prolonged running for periods to keep the temperature down.
It's a standard that's supposed to include checks against ring sticking, carbon deposits, etc. However, part of it may be the inherent issues of deliberately burning oil in the combustion chamber that may cause rings to stick and carbon deposits to form.
I prefer scented lamp oil. A Light paraffin.
No "additives" to crust up plug insulators or piston tops
Yeah that looks like a clean burning light oil without any additives that's paraffin based (paraffin=similar to kerosene a bit is it?))
I don't know the MSDS's but I suppose generally UCL s are going to be some form of light burning oil (thus not motor oil) miscible with fuel with maybe some sort of detergent/higher scale solvents ad de d to this carrier primarily for the injectors presumably, and any trace amounts of select additives.
I've used aceton e, lacquer thinner and naptha (lighter fluid) in the petrol before as a cleaner.
I suppose it's a similar readily available cost effective oil I could run through the system permanently that would probably be the best.
(Unfortunately as it's a bucket lifter under camshaft adjusting valve clearances in the future can be quite costly and labor intensive on my engine)
I don't know the MSDS's but I suppose generally UCL s are going to be some form of light burning oil (thus not motor oil) miscible with fuel with maybe some sort of detergent/higher scale solvents ad de d to this carrier primarily for the injectors presumably, and any trace amounts of select additives.
I've used aceton e, lacquer thinner and naptha (lighter fluid) in the petrol before as a cleaner.
I suppose it's a similar readily available cost effective oil I could run through the system permanently that would probably be the best.
(Unfortunately as it's a bucket lifter under camshaft adjusting valve clearances in the future can be quite costly and labor intensive on my engine)
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TCW3 has specifications that need to be followed, and also TCW3 is cleaner burning than older 2 stroke oil variants due to this specification.
I run half a quart or a quart of it in a tank if I am going to let my throttle rip on my Volkswagen.
How are you going to add diesel or whatever to propane?
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