Did the CRC Intake Valve Treatment.

I highly doubt this does anything. I used this before I took my manifold off and it still was absolutely full of gunk.
Before I go and bash these products let me just say, I get it. I think everyone should do what they feel is best and if it makes you feel good, do it. Do it. Absolutely, because at least you’re showing pride in ownership and in the long run you’ll end up doing something that will help your vehicle over the course of its life. But this isn’t it.

I’ve done the same, it did basically nothing (Taking my manifold off expecting to see some form of sign that my treatments with CRC did something).

And when I discovered THAT, I did a little “test” of my own on CRC cleaner. I had a carbon coated valve laying around in the shop (nothing too bad) and sprayed an entire can DIRECTLY on the valve. Nothing. So then I let the valve soak directly in a solution of sea foam for two hours. Nothing. I then unloaded another half a can directly on to the valve AFTER heating the valve up to 200 plus degrees and next to nothing - as I continued to spray the remainder of the second can. Oh and I also agitated the valve back and forth in the solution while it was soaking for two hours.

And the before and after photos, videos, scopes, whatever with these products need to be compared to whatever would happen with untreated valve/combustion chambers. Because gasoline, heat, combustion take place and things will change. These YouTube videos generally show what it looks like after treatment (which usually is next to nothing). Show what happens while using nothing at all, I imagine it’ll look remarkably the same.

I think the only way these cleaners would “work” is if they were sprayed once a week, or more.
 
Ya good thought Snagglefoot but then someone would have to scope their intake manifold, the back of the intake valves then the combustion chambers both through an open intake valve and then down through the spark plug hole . Before and after pictures and/or videos. :cool:
Sounds like a good idea for Project Farm. ;)
 
On direct injected engine there is no fuel that goes behind the intake valve. So no cleaning effects from fuel going into the combustion chambers Unless you drive highway all the time and it is mostly flat level roads/highways you will get some carbon no mater what retail fuel you use for a daily driver. I personally will only use 91-93 Chevron fuels and I still occasional see a little carbon forming.
 
I don't think this is needed if using a top tier fuel.
I think if it's a hybrid injection system with an injector In the intake , that would help. But if its dry flow intake, how will the top tier fuel clean the Pcv oil buildup off the intake valves?
 
Moving the injector DI engine or having a separate specific injector for the purpose of cleaning the intake valves we are It not likely to see a change with more Hybrid and electric vehicle's that will eventually dominate the roads ? But who knows, maybe the auto manufactures will bring back a few old school tricks that will reduce ,clean and eliminate carbon deposits?;) The general reason for a DI engine is improved power and lowered emissions.

Composite Intake manifold not only can take very high heat but their composition resists caustic materials like cleaning agents both internal and external from damaging them.

The biggest thing I dislike about them is you can't really port them.... 😔
 
I am pretty sure that I read somewhere (please correct me if I am wrong) that some new Ford and Toyota engines have two injectors per cylinder; the main one for DI and then a separate "old school" injector in the port. When the engine is at operating temperature and idling, they switch to the port injector for the purpose of cleaning the intake valve.
 
The only way to clean the back of DI valves is to remove the intake and walnut blast them or literaly scrub the valves. The carbon build up isn't soft or gummy it is hard and baked on. Think of food and grease spills on the bottom of your oven, even with oven cleaner you have to scrub the baked on stuff. A lot of you will flame me for this but a quality dual port catch can will significantly reduce the deposits. Will it eliminate them 100%? No. Eventually the intake hs to come off and be mechanically removed. On some vehicles it is an easy proceedure, on others its very complex. Save your money on the CRC stuff and invest in a catch can, you'll be very suprised by the amount of junk it accumulates.
 
Preventive service and even more so that peace of mind is never necessarily a waste of time or money. :D


Sooner or later they will have to be cleaned. It’s a common service now. O’Reillys sells these for $14 each so every 5000 miles adds up.
 
Did that last month. My IS was having rough idle and low rpm for a while, then after a new battery and stalling for a few times afterward, I ran a can following the instruction to the dot and spray from the brake vacuum line. It smoothed out afterward but it did have rough idle during test drive, and a misfire cell came on when accelerating. The idle RPM went from 500 to about 600 afterward.

Overall I think it "did something", but it may be because the ECU adapt to the new idle as well, so hard to say how much it help. I might run it if I was having some idle issue, and a can may clean just enough to make it back to ok. I probably won't use it if I am having no problem.
 
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I am pretty sure that I read somewhere (please correct me if I am wrong) that some new Ford and Toyota engines have two injectors per cylinder; the main one for DI and then a separate "old school" injector in the port. When the engine is at operating temperature and idling, they switch to the port injector for the purpose of cleaning the intake valve.
They "blend" the amount of fuel injected on both injectors to get optimal mix (part throttle and low rpm is actually better with port injection). Enough from the port injection to keep the intake valve clean is just a side effect.
 
I've used it, not sure if i will again.

My worry is it pooling in a dry flow intake system, and then when you step on it, hydro-locking a cylinder. I think the CRC is PEA in a diesel fuel solution , so it does not flash off.

Anyone had the stones to use it in a turbo engine?
yeah, something like (aromatic) kero+pea would make sense (maybe a hint of xylene). to delay evaporation much as possible.
definitely change oil after.
i´m afraid on turbos you must route turbo directly to engine, otherwise spray will condense on intercooler walls :(
 
One reason I'll never use the stuff is I don't want bits of gunk lodging in the cat converter.
I will burn off - not the earth metals from oil but, gunk and carbon. Some wide open throttle getting on the highway and 45-75 acceleration in a lower gear should do it - Until the State Trooper pulls you over :)
I worry more about earth metals plating out onto the plug insulators causing the insulators to become a high value resistor; this can lead to high misfire counts.

I will just drive our two DI cars and monitor fuel mileage and power - then and off to the dealer it goes if it needs cleaning - DURING WARRANTY.
 
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