Did my first ATF drain and fill on a high mileage vehicle, when should I do it again?

[rob1715]

I'd do it every 200 - 300 miles, 3 - 4 D/Rs and be done with it. You'll probably get 80 - 90% out which is fine. RAV4 has the 6 speeds which are very good.

 

[MrPlow]

Sort of off topic, but this reminded me of a time I took my truck into the quick change oil place to get a drain and fill done. They did the DaF once but the dip stick showed it was way over the high mark. They were very confused and drained the ATF out and refilled, and once again, it was way over. After a few free DaF on their expense, they realized the numbers were wrong in their system and were putting in like a quart or two too much each time. They finally got it right, and I had a fully exchanged tranny for half the price of doing a full fluid exchange to begin with. LOL

 

[nicholas]

Ok thanks. Since I just got it done today, when should I do the next one?

I usually do 1 drain and fill per week for 4 weeks.
No need to really wait.
You could also do 3 more back to back after a short drive and disconnect your battery for an hour or so. To clear any learning parameters in your trans.

Your choice

 

[RickMC]

Ok so I noticed driving today that rumble strip sound went away. So I guess it may have had something to do with my transmission and the drain and fill helped? That warranty posted above was for torque converter shudder, so being a total noob to cars I need to ask, the torque converter is related to the transmission, correct? Would new fluid have any effect on the torque converter? I’m guessing not, but since I know almost zero about cars and their internal parts, I thought I would ask.

 

[Astro14]

ATF is a quite strong cleaner, let the fresh ATF clean the passages and solenoids, if not in a hurry just do it at next oil change.

Really?

What cleaning agents does ATF have in it, that make it “quite a strong cleaner”?

 

[doublebase]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10146511-9999.pdf

There is a warranty extension for this issue, 8/150K. It probably needs a torque converter.

I was going to say torque converter, but I didn’t want to worry the guy. But, boy I hope we’re wrong.

Edit - Oh wait, he’d be covered under the warranty extension.

 

[doublebase]

Ok so I noticed driving today that rumble strip sound went away. So I guess it may have had something to do with my transmission and the drain and fill helped? That warranty posted above was for torque converter shudder, so being a total noob to cars I need to ask, the torque converter is related to the transmission, correct? Would new fluid have any effect on the torque converter? I’m guessing not, but since I know almost zero about cars and their internal parts, I thought I would ask.

Yes, the torque converter essentially attaches your engine to the transmission, it’s like the clutch, but a fluid coupling. The transmission has to come out to replace the torque converter, but the good news is, unless your converter has actually damaged the transmission the transmission doesn’t have to be rebuilt and torn apart/replaced. But it’s labor intensive to get the torque converter out.

 

[doublebase]

Really?

What cleaning agents does ATF have in it, that make it “quite a strong cleaner”?

Detergents.

 

[tblt44]

3x drain and refill should be good

 

[SoNic67]

Would new fluid have any effect on the torque converter?

Yes, it shares the same fluid. TC retains old fluid, doesn't drain, that's why you need to do like three drain/refills, to dilute that old fluid. On my RAV4 I drove 200 miles in between drains.
Used for fill the AISIN WS transmission fluid from rockauto. My 2011 takes 3.8 Qt:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7668692&jsn=1281

PS: Even when they do a "flush" the new fluid still mixes with the old fluid in TC and the pan. So it's not better, they also use like 3-4 gallons of fluid.

 

[Astro14]

Detergents.

Yeah...

At a far lower level than regular motor oil, so I was calling into question the statement that said, “ATF is quite a strong cleaner”. It’s weaker than regular oil, so, I wouldn't call it quite strong.

 

[doublebase]

Yeah...

At a far lower level than regular motor oil, so I was calling into question the statement that said, “ATF is quite a strong cleaner”. It’s weaker than regular oil, so, I wouldn't call it quite strong.

Yeah, about 1/15th to motor oil? But in the allocation that it’s being used, it’s a reasonably strong cleaner, no?

 

[RickMC]

Can I ask what the typical cost is for a shop to do a drain and fill? Since I took mine to a dealer, I have a feeling I paid more than I had to if I had taken it somewhere else.

 

[The Critic]

Can I ask what the typical cost is for a shop to do a drain and fill? Since I took mine to a dealer, I have a feeling I paid more than I had to if I had taken it somewhere else.

Anywhere between $200-$300 is reasonable. I would expect to pay 1 hr plus parts. This one does not have a dipstick so setting the fluid level properly takes time.

 

[dlundblad]

Is there any advantage to doing multiple DaF instead of just doing a one-shot fluid exchange? On some rigs, the ATF cooler lines going to the radiator are super easy to use for exchanging fluids, and is probably less overall work than 3-4 DaF?

We did a full exchange on my wife’s Volvo S60 almost 5 years ago. Took like 14 quarts total to see a big contrast in color. I think it holds around 12 quarts.

This was around 150-160k. We are at 200k now so I think it’s time for a drain and fill. I’ll probably do one this spring/ summer and then a year later.

 

[doublebase]

Anywhere between $200-$300 is reasonable. I would expect to pay 1 hr plus parts. This one does not have a dipstick so setting the fluid level properly takes time.

At first when I read what you wrote I thought...that’s way too high. But when you broke it down? You could be right.

1 hour labor= could anywhere from $100-$150
3-5 bottles of transmission fluid = $50
Disposal fees, etc = $10
Tax= $15-$20

$250 ish

Thank god I can work on my own stuff...my drain and fills on my Toyota cost me around $30 bucks.

 

[Lubener]

ATF is a quite strong cleaner, let the fresh ATF clean the passages and solenoids, if not in a hurry just do it at next oil change.

No fluid or cleaner is going to clean any metal deposits which are attracted magnetically to the solenoids.

 

[demarpaint]

It can only be done by a Toyota dealer and you will need to duplicate the issue for the technician. The issue needs to match the symptoms described in the warranty extension.

+1 And the vin# has to be included in the bulletin. "VerifyVIN applicability for thisWarranty Enhancementby checking TIS(Technical Information System) before completing any repairs."
OP You're going to have to bring it to them to confirm it is in fact covered.

 

[ssspencerjr]

At first when I read what you wrote I thought...that’s way too high. But when you broke it down? You could be right.

1 hour labor= could anywhere from $100-$150
3-5 bottles of transmission fluid = $50
Disposal fees, etc = $10
Tax= $15-$20

$250 ish

Thank god I can work on my own stuff...my drain and fills on my Toyota cost me around $30 bucks.

Our DD vehicles each drain a gallon... $18 a gallon of maxlife at walmart. Definitely not paying anyone to do that.

 

[Pelican]

I have a 2014 Toyota RAV4 with 138,000 miles on it. Not being that knowledgeable in cars, I never thought to get my transmission fluid changed. It’s a sealed transmission with supposed “lifetime” ATF. So I finally decided to get the fluid drained and refilled earlier today. My question was, since I never did it before and had put that many miles on it, should I get it drained and refilled again soon?

It depends if they did a drop & fill or a full exchange.
If the 1st do it again several times every 5K miles till most of the fluid will be fresh, if the latter you are good for at least 50K miles.