Diagram for DC motor with brushes

[Donald]

I am looking for the wiring diagram of a DC motor with brushes. Want to understand if one can feed in the main DC power though one set of wires and then be able to make the motor go F or R by feeding in power to the other set of wires and by flipping the + and - you can reverse the motor.

In this diagram #4 is a solenoid box with a forward and reverse solenoid. #5 is the motor.

K1 makes it go one direction and K2 the other.

The - negative from the battery always goes to the same spot on the motor whether the motor goes F or R.

I think there might be an error is the schematic. I don't think K1 and K2 each have one NO and one NC contact. Makes sense each relay has two NO contacts. Might not be understanding something.

(In the past this would be an ask my Dad question. I miss him).

 

[JohnnyG]

https://www.emotorsdirect.ca/knowle...#:~:text=Yes!,polarity of the applied voltage.

 

[jhellwig]

Looks like it will work. The no and nc on each set are what change the polatiry into the armature. Looks like it brakes when either direction is off.

 

[meep]

The secret sauce is whether or not it is a permanent magnet type, or if field coils are used. If the permanent magnet, then yes reversing the polarity will work. However if it uses field coils instead of permanent magnets, the motor will continue to rotate the same, because both the armature (fed by brushes) and the field coil (usually in series with the armature) BOTH swap their orientation together, thereby maintaining the same relative forces.

 

[Donald]

I am trying to figure out why I hear the F or the R click but motor does not move

 

[Donald]

Looks like it will work. The no and nc on each set are what change the polatiry into the armature. Looks like it brakes when either direction is off.

Ok, did not think of braking. They want to stop the motor quickly so they can turn the motor the opposite direction.

 

[mk378]

It is a field coil motor and the field coil is series connected (or "series wound"). Circuit D is the field coil and circuit A is the brushes and armature.

This exact circuit is widely used on off-road truck winches. Also, starter motors are series wound, though permanently connected to turn in one direction only.

Energizing K1 creates a path from battery + to D1. After flowing through the field coil, the current leaving D2 goes through the normally closed contacts of K2 and into the armature A1, and finally returns to the battery - via A2.

Energizing K2 does the same thing except the flow through the field coil is reversed to be from D2 to D1, which makes the motor run in the opposite direction, since the current in the armature is still in the same direction.

Interestingly, reversing the battery polarity would not make this type of motor reverse. It is the relative direction of current through the field and armature that determines what magnetic attraction occurs and thus the direction of rotation.

You can power up the motor without the relay box by connecting a jumper from either D2 or D1 to A1, then connecting a battery to the other D terminal and A2.

As far as troubleshooting, simple voltage and continuity checks will tell a lot. The relays often click but fail to close the circuit.

 

[Donald]

It is a field coil motor and the field coil is series connected (or "series wound"). Circuit D is the field coil and circuit A is the brushes and armature.

This exact circuit is widely used on off-road truck winches. Also, starter motors are series wound, though permanently connected to turn in one direction only.

Energizing K1 creates a path from battery + to D1. After flowing through the field coil, the current leaving D2 goes through the normally closed contacts of K2 and into the armature A1, and finally returns to the battery - via A2.

Energizing K2 does the same thing except the flow through the field coil is reversed to be from D2 to D1, which makes the motor run in the opposite direction, since the current in the armature is still in the same direction.

Interestingly, reversing the battery polarity would not make this type of motor reverse. It is the relative direction of current through the field and armature that determines what magnetic attraction occurs and thus the direction of rotation.

You can power up the motor without the relay box by connecting a jumper from either D2 or D1 to A1, then connecting a battery to the other D terminal and A2.

As far as troubleshooting, simple voltage and continuity checks will tell a lot. The relays often click but fail to close the circuit.

The issue with trouble shooting is it's down inside a little hatch on my boat. Hard to do anything working through the little hatch. I tried to get the motor out and I was unable to. They either pulled the solenoid off before putting the motor in and then put the solenoid back on.

 

[Donald]

It is a field coil motor and the field coil is series connected (or "series wound"). Circuit D is the field coil and circuit A is the brushes and armature.

This exact circuit is widely used on off-road truck winches. Also, starter motors are series wound, though permanently connected to turn in one direction only.

Energizing K1 creates a path from battery + to D1. After flowing through the field coil, the current leaving D2 goes through the normally closed contacts of K2 and into the armature A1, and finally returns to the battery - via A2.

Energizing K2 does the same thing except the flow through the field coil is reversed to be from D2 to D1, which makes the motor run in the opposite direction, since the current in the armature is still in the same direction.

Interestingly, reversing the battery polarity would not make this type of motor reverse. It is the relative direction of current through the field and armature that determines what magnetic attraction occurs and thus the direction of rotation.

You can power up the motor without the relay box by connecting a jumper from either D2 or D1 to A1, then connecting a battery to the other D terminal and A2.

As far as troubleshooting, simple voltage and continuity checks will tell a lot. The relays often click but fail to close the circuit.

While this motor has not been used for a few years it was inside the cabin area of my boat so no extreme weather.

So I can get both relays click but the motor never turns. I can see one relay's contacts not making proper contact but both?

The solenoid box is $200. Can I use a file or sandpaper on the contacts or just be done with it and but a new solenoid box.