Diagnosis: Rust (under the hood)

[JHZR2]

98 S-10. Maybe has gotten 500 miles of use per year for the last 5-6. Love the truck, still use it, but it sits outside. Costs me relatively nothing to own.

A few weeks back I noticed a couple bubbles in the hood paint. I was surprised because I keep the truck clean, and take decent care of it.

Today I had some time to pull the hood pad, and I was saddened to see what I did....

The hood pad did me no favors I think. I suspect it trapped moisture up by the paint that wouldn't be there if it was open. My other cars have all either had no hood pad, or had a rubber foam type that was glued/adhered directly to the user hood metal.

Could also be that I leave a float charger all the time... I've also never oil sprayed under the hood like I have on my cars with no pads.

So, now what?

Does GM generally offer OE body parts this far out?

Does CAPA parts really matter?

I love my truck, and want to select the best items that are prudent for it. That said, Im kind of thinking perhaps a shop like Maaco might be the best bet if I buy a brand new replacement hood and get their best paint service. I've read that they spray more cars than most so paint quality can be very good. It's more the prep and other repair quality that matters. I'd literally be using them to paint the item and then I'd do the corrosion protection, repair and replace.

Thoughts or recommendations??

Thanks!

 

[Anduril]

That era S10's are a dime a dozen in junkyards around here. If it's the wrong color or you end up going with a new part, rattle can paint and a decent clear is the most I'd do. If you use a 2-part clear in a spray can, I guarantee you it'll old up better than anything you get done at Maaco.

 

[spasm3]

For a 98, thats not bad. I'm sure its disappointing especially if it has sentimental value. The problem is, the junkyard hoods in your area are probably going to be the same. You may can get a hood shipped from this area (south east, or even out west) but its probably not cheap..

 

[DuckRyder]

That hole looks suspicious, has it been PDR'ed at some point?

 

[joegreen]

Rust on a removable body panels is never the worst thing. I would look at junk yards for another hood. Sometimes one vehicle gets rust in a spot another vehicle never gets

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by DuckRyder
That hole looks suspicious, has it been PDR'ed at some point?


Nope. I can say that for certain.

Originally Posted by spasm3
For a 98, thats not bad. I'm sure its disappointing especially if it has sentimental value. The problem is, the junkyard hoods in your area are probably going to be the same. You may can get a hood shipped from this area (south east, or even out west) but its probably not cheap..



Agreed. They're not much money but shipping can be a killer.


Originally Posted by joegreen
Rust on a removable body panels is never the worst thing. I would look at junk yards for another hood. Sometimes one vehicle gets rust in a spot another vehicle never gets


Fine point, probably worth a look around here to save shipping.

Question is if I'm better off with an older OE hood that needs to be prepped fully and then sprayed, or a new aftermarket that is already primed and just needs to be cleaned and painted...

 

[The_Jeff]

Keep an eye out for an OE hood that's not only your color but that's been out in the sun for 21 years so it's equally faded.

IDK if Trailblazer/ Bravada hoods are the same or a "little different" but they could be an option, too.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

Bummer.
Sounds like you have some options to correct.
1) Junk Yard (may also be rusted)
2) Order from down South (pay shipping)

What about going over the rusted areas with a Wire-Wheel, then Prime and Paint.
Might take 1 hour to clean 'most' rust off.
THEN use Fluid Film and let it penetrate into any rust of hard-to-reach areas.

This is a good hose/nozzle to get the Fluid Film to 'atomize'.
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/images/products/large_15105231_as11spraywand.jpg

Edit: The 1st photo, is that a rust hole just starting to come thru ?
I would get some sheet-metal and rivet a patch on (approx. 4" x 8")
Stagger the rivets and it would look like an Airplane or Bus (that's what my Father taught me / but it's not for everyone).

 

[01rangerxl]

GM does still have hoods in stock for it at their Flint, MI distribution center, part # 12479949. List is $682.22 though.

Bergey's Wholesale Mechanical in Colmar, PA (215-822-2655) actually shows one in stock on the GM locator. Might be worth a call, maybe they want to get rid of it.

 

[alchargo]

Here in the rust belt, the bodies on the GMT325s don't last long. They are also plentiful in the local pick-a-part yards. That's probably the best bet for a hood replacement.

I picked up this '98 Jimmy AWD from a family friend for $300 last year. After another $200 in parts, it's been a reliable winter beater. The hood and roof are about the only places where rust isn't yet visible.

 

[fdcg27]

For a twenty year old cheap-build truck (and they were) always stored outside in the Northeast that really doesn't look bad.
Grind the rust off as best you can and then apply a rust preventing primer.
Try to find a latex one since it won't have solvents that will surely lift the existing paint. There used to be a really good Lucite latex rusty metal primer that I have used if you can still find it. Shoot the underneath area with a finish coat of anything in a can or you could even brush it since it's in an unseen area.
The bubbles up top indicate perforation as you already know.
How pristine do you need or want this old horse to be?
You could probably do a decent if cosmetically imperfect repair with maybe a patch applied underneath, riveted with rivets in dimples and then made smooth with a little epoxy filler sanded smooth which you would then shoot and blend as well as you can.
I understand your desire to preserve this little guy as best you can, but it probably makes little sense to spend a lot on cosmetics for what is ultimately just an old trucklet with little value.
Incidentally, your little guy was probably built in the Moraine assembly plant about five miles from where I work. GM closed this factory at the end of 2008, by which time it was building the Trailblazer. This facility is now operated by a Chinese automotive glass supplier paying only a fraction of GM wages.

 

[spasm3]

Rock auto has 1 remaining hood, capa certified for $97.00( non capa hood $62), shipping to my address in NC is $175 for a total of 272.78 plus any tax. Unless you have the space and means you will also have to have it painted.

 

[spasm3]

I'm thinking this is a good situation for some POR-15, assuming you paint the whole hood. Derust as much as you can por-15 it, fill in the areas and paint it.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Anduril
That era S10's are a dime a dozen in junkyards around here. If it's the wrong color or you end up going with a new part, rattle can paint and a decent clear is the most I'd do. If you use a 2-part clear in a spray can, I guarantee you it'll old up better than anything you get done at Maaco.

Originally Posted by fdcg27
For a twenty year old cheap-build truck (and they were) always stored outside in the Northeast that really doesn't look bad.
Grind the rust off as best you can and then apply a rust preventing primer.
Try to find a latex one since it won't have solvents that will surely lift the existing paint. There used to be a really good Lucite latex rusty metal primer that I have used if you can still find it. Shoot the underneath area with a finish coat of anything in a can or you could even brush it since it's in an unseen area.
The bubbles up top indicate perforation as you already know.
How pristine do you need or want this old horse to be?
You could probably do a decent if cosmetically imperfect repair with maybe a patch applied underneath, riveted with rivets in dimples and then made smooth with a little epoxy filler sanded smooth which you would then shoot and blend as well as you can.
You need sandblasting and acid to keep the rust from returning in the rust belt. You might as well rub it with sunflower oil and aluminum foil (you're my boy Ducked, RIP). Too many seams and crevices on a hood to be worth it when there are plenty in the yard.

Let it rust while you look for a new hood. Hoods rusting through from the inside can't be that common unless there is something I am missing.

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted by spasm3
Rock auto has 1 remaining hood, capa certified for $97.00( non capa hood $62), shipping to my address in NC is $175 for a total of 272.78 plus any tax. Unless you have the space and means you will also have to have it painted.


That sounds pretty cheap although R&R on a hood on one of these will not be as easy as it looks if you want to get close to a correct fit with even gaps.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by JHZR2
Im kind of thinking perhaps a shop like Maaco might be the best bet if I buy a brand new replacement hood and get their best paint service.


So you want to spend $500+ on a $1000 truck to fix whats basically a cosmetic issue? I don't think it makes much sense.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Im kind of thinking perhaps a shop like Maaco might be the best bet if I buy a brand new replacement hood and get their best paint service.


So you want to spend $500+ on a $1000 truck to fix whats basically a cosmetic issue? I don't think it makes much sense.



Same thing with your brake drums

 

[SatinSilver]

I believe the rest of the truck is in very good condition with the ZR-2 package, one owner, low miles, etc... So worth putting some money into and a nice truck.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Im kind of thinking perhaps a shop like Maaco might be the best bet if I buy a brand new replacement hood and get their best paint service.


So you want to spend $500+ on a $1000 truck to fix whats basically a cosmetic issue? I don't think it makes much sense.


I bought this truck new and it's in great shape otherwise.

I have the means to do so, and I want to do so. Enough said.


Originally Posted by SatinSilver
I believe the rest of the truck is in very good condition with the ZR-2 package, one owner, low miles, etc... So worth putting some money into and a nice truck.


Exactly. I plan to keep this truck as long as I'm able. It's very useful when needed.

I think I let it sit too long though... lesson learned.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by fdcg27


That sounds pretty cheap although R&R on a hood on one of these will not be as easy as it looks if you want to get close to a correct fit with even gaps.


Can you elaborate on the gaps and fit?

There are plenty of aftermarket hoods that are CAPA certified for what that's worth. Less than $300 on eBay delivers one to my door.

I was looking at removal. I'm used to my Mercedes cars where there are two bolts to attach the hood to the hinge, then a complex hinge mechanism.

Looking at my truck, it seems like the hood is welded to the flange that bolts to the body, and there's just one bolt on each side that serves as the hinge point as well.

Someone told me to hold onto the hardware as it is unique, and you have to reuse it to get the alignment right. Not sure if it's unique to the body or to the hood??

Any thoughts?