@Leo99:
Yeah, I haven't even figured out totally how to immobilize a car to change the oil. The timing belt is probably several months in the future at the rate my research has been going (I'd like to change the plastic seal, too, but that requires re-timing the exhaust as well).
Any specific things I should look for in an independent shop? I'll probably check out Angie's List; worked well enough for getting the muffler repaired. I don't think there's going to be anyone advertising their services for AC in particular--it's not that specialized afaik.
@Donald:
No, I don't have a manifold gauge set. I'd have to research the different the same way I've researched the other stuff: look up the Amazon ratings (HF's aren't much cheaper; I found a few that were cheaper on Amazon), ignore the ones with a bunch of low star ratings, list the best ones, then check back with the Bob forums. I have absolutely no idea in what to look for in a manifold gauge set (what type of attachments, valves, hoses, vacuum pump vs no pump, etc.).
Here's my starter list:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...#gid=1584751642
I don't know what a low pressure shut off is, or where it's located on the '03 Accent. Maybe I could find it in the workshop manual. I can probably find it myself; I've spent enough time under the hood staring at mysterious components.
I can't figure out what kind of evacuator I need. The ones I'm looking at on Amazon are either air or manually operated fluid evacuators. I couldn't find one that specified a filter; they look like sealed containters with no filtration.
For a gauge set, detector, evacuator, vacuum pump, one can of refrigerant, and a recharger hose, it would be $346.95 (this isn't counting any replacement parts; this is just for the diagnosis, and assumes that all the parts listed would work for the intended application).
Everyone keep in mind this is a $2700-ish car. Might be cheaper to sell it and get a $5000 car without the same issues, but at some point, I might have to do this kind of repair or get it repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.
@WANG:
Yes, you can hear the clutch engage, followed immediately by the hiss.
@JHZR2:
The coolest it gets is at maybe 3500 RPM, and even then it's barely not-hot; maybe lukewarm. It can hiss, but it's got to cool, which it isn't doing. In order to do the cursory test, I'm going to need to buy some equipment, or pay someone to do the test for me. By high and low sides, you're talking about the front hot end with a pressure outlet for testing and recharging (the condensor) versus the cold rear side (i.e. closer to the blower fan in the passenger side body) where the evaporator core is. I think this video shows where one gauge is supposed to be connected:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPcC0vgq3mM
It could be that the sudden vapor release that I noticed at the onset of the problem was from the high pressure release valve. The car has electrical problems stemming from the battery cables and the instability of the battery; it's possible the AC fan relay was affected somehow and caused it to vent r134a, but it seems less likely than a component failure. I hit a bird last week, and drove through ice, snow, and over an assortment of car parts fallen from everyone else's vehicles from January to May; I guess the condensor could have been pierced; but based on the sudden vapor release, seems more likely to be something further towards the rear of the engine compartment; I was never able to pin down where that vapor came from though.
@hansj3:
I don't know what the pressure and temps are supposed to be. Based on the sudden onset of the problem (like I mention in the video link), it seems more like a component failure than osmosis. A sudden loud hiss followed by vapor emitted from beneath the hood is a pretty good tip-off that something in the system is broken and needs replacement.
This says it's supposed to be 28 PSI with 525-575g of R-134a after drawing vacuum for a half hour on the High side, with the gauge hooked up to the low side:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lc-2000-2005-accent/124109-correct-2002-hyundai-accent-c-psi.html
@Merkava_4:
The dealer said the inspection would be $108 for a gas flow test, and $165 for an evaporator purge; is that a good deal or not? I'd like to think I can beat the dealer's price, but then again the dealer is going to know more about the car than an independent. I guess it's worth a shot to ask. Changing out the compressor is going to be almost as hard as changing the timing belt...I might want to ask how much the independent would charge to replace a component I bought.
@bullwinkle:
Where's the condensate drain? A set of glasses, some AC dye, and a UV light would be about $44.65; about the same as getting a cheap detector; might be a decent alternative if the detector doesn't work or if I don't get someone to do the diagnostic for me.
@mattwithcats:
How much of the PAG 100 am I supposed to add before the regular r134a? I don't know where the Schrader valve is for the Accent. Is it the same place as the High and Low side pressure valves?
@GiveMeAVowel:
Other guy says to add it, you say not to. In the interest of everyone getting along happily, should I add a little bit?
@WANG:
I don't know whether it has a Schrader or a ball check valve; I'm going to randomly guess Schrader. Maybe the service manual will say, maybe a parts retailer will say it.
@ronp:
I can hear the reduction in RPM and increase in load. I want to stay away from tool lending though. I've had this one Netflix DVD for two months. :\ The blower is working fine, it's the cooling that has failed. It's lukewarm at best, usually as hot as the engine compartment when I first start it up from idle.