Delvac 1 vs. Rotella T Full Synthetic

Intelman34 · Jul 6, 2003

I've become a huge fan of diesel oils for my cars and I am lucky enough to have just about every kind available to me at good prices.

I have been using Mobil Delvac 1 in a few vehicles including my 97 Z28 and I like it very much.

I have a 93 Thunderbird V8 with 94,000 miles on it that I use as a daily vehicle. I dont want to spend the $22/gallon for Delvac 1 on it so I bought the Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic for $12/gallon. I plan to run it for 5000-6000 miles in the car.

Is there a huge difference between Delvac 1 and Rotella T Synth? If there is... what is the major difference?

Thanks!

Rebel Rouser · Jul 6, 2003

The major difference I believe would be the basestock, Group III for the Shell and Group 4 for Delvac.

BTW, have you noticed any of the German Castrol Syntec SLX 0W-30 in any of the Auto Zones in the greater Milwaukee area?
Can't seem to find it anywhere in the northeast part of the state. Thanks.

TexasTDI · Jul 8, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by Intelman34:
Is there a huge difference between Delvac 1 and Rotella T Synth? If there is... what is the major difference?

Yes, there is a huge difference between the two oils. Delvac-1 is a Group 4 oil (made with 100% synthetic basestocks). Shell Rotella is a Group 3 oil (made with dino oil basestocks).

Lightman · Jul 15, 2003

Folks is there an echo in the room?

deepsquat · Jul 15, 2003

I used Delvac 1 in my 95 nissan altima, though I have stopped , as the Flying J now wants almost 30$ a gal...but I can give one glowing reort on it...I have ran Mobile 1 for say 60000 miles, and in that time I have always had a varnish mark on my dipstick..after 15000 on Delvac 1 that varnish mark is finally gone..a small amout of varnish is still in my engine...we will see if the Lube Control I just recieved will get ride of that.

James Chow · Jul 16, 2003

I recently switched to D1 in my 86 4Runner (145K mi). Previously, I ran only dino, 10w40, 3K intervals up to 125K miles, when I replaced the t-chain as a precaution and along with it, the main seal, valve seals, upper block gaskets, then oil changes every 2K miles until I put in D1 at 143K miles (moved from CA to AZ, so I wanted synthetic for the heat). I can see a little varnish when I look in the oil filler hole. I'm on my first change of D1. Should I change it out at 3K mi (soon) or run it for 4-5K miles, then change? I'm wondering if there will be excessive varnish buildup. I bought a couple of gallons of Rotella T synthetic since it was cheap at WalMart, but will probably just run that 3K-3.5K mi (since I don't expect it to last as long as the D1 due to being a group III) and switch back to D1...found a local oil/fuel company that sells cases of 4 gal for $90. Other car is a '01 honda, running D1 right now, but will probably switch to M1 0w40 since it doesn't have varnish (15K mi).

[ July 17, 2003, 11:44 AM: Message edited by: James Chow ]

deepsquat · Jul 17, 2003

personally, I would change out the D1 at 3000, the first time, as it may clean out a lot of gunk from your engine, and after that 5000, easily ..do a UOA at 5000 to see how thing are going.

msparks · Jul 22, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by James Chow:
Thanks. I have a couple of gallons of Rotella T synthetic 5w40 that I got from WalMart a while back, but I don't think I can run it much more than 3K miles since it's a group III basestock, right? I plan to use D1 for the long term, but was thinking of using the Rotella T just to use it up before permanently going w/ D1. Or is the Rotella so inferior that I shouldn't bother?

It's not like the Rotella is a slugde producing, non lubricating group I oil. The Group III base stocks perform very well for their intended purpose.

I've seen analysis of both Delo synthetic, and Petro Canada with extended drains. This oil is very good and I would have no qualms about running it 7500 miles or 6 months in any gasoline passenger car.

Yes delvac might be a better oil, but overall I don't think you will harm your engine in any way by running the Synthetic version of Rotella.

James Chow · Jul 23, 2003

Thanks. I have a couple of gallons of Rotella T synthetic 5w40 that I got from WalMart a while back, but I don't think I can run it much more than 3K miles since it's a group III basestock, right? I plan to use D1 for the long term, but was thinking of using the Rotella T just to use it up before permanently going w/ D1. Or is the Rotella so inferior that I shouldn't bother?

Ken2 · Sep 6, 2003

Here is some good info on base oil groups: http://www.pecuniary.com/faq/oil-base-stock.html (although this site sells Amsoil, it has some very good general oil info)

To know which finished oil products contain which base oils, you can often get the info from the product's MSDS, then ask here to translate the chemical-eze to plain language.

Here's some info on base oil prices. http://www.lubereport.com/e_article000180182.cfm?x=a25T4JV,a12MT5WC

Group II base oil is mainly used in 10W-30 and other oils with about that 20 pt. viscosity spread. Group II+ base oil is widely used in 5W-30. Group III is highly refined petroleum oil with the legal right to be labeled as "full synthetic." It makes good products, not quite as good as Group IV or V, and not worth the price charged at retail.

Ken

G-MAN · Sep 7, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by radioman:
Can someone point me at how one can find out what baee stock a syn oil is made from? For example, how do we know that Rotella T Synthetic is made from petro. base stock? Where are these classes? Very much appreciated.

Rotella T Synthetic is made primarily from Shell's XHVI base oil (roughly 70%). This is a Group III wax isomerate with a VI of >140. Other base oils used in Rotella T Syn are a small amount of Group II+ and an even smaller amount of Group I.

radioman · Sep 7, 2003

Thanks for the reply. I think I can discern from Rotella Synthetic specs that it comes from dino. But as to price justification, its only 70 cents a gallong cheaper at base stock than class IV, which retails for twice as much. Shows at least to me that the big dough they charge for Class IV oils is pretty outrageous. Its pretty clear that the AmsOil folks at HQ have no problem staying fat and pretty with a dedicated customer base of their dealers and dues paying public customers. No complaint, I have been a dealer since 1980.
BTW, anyone know if any of the Class III diesel oils meet the new Cl-4 Spec?

jme

radioman · Sep 7, 2003

Can someone point me at how one can find out what baee stock a syn oil is made from? For example, how do we know that Rotella T Synthetic is made from petro. base stock? Where are these classes? Very much appreciated.

Brons2 · Sep 18, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by radioman:
Thanks for the reply. I think I can discern from Rotella Synthetic specs that it comes from dino. But as to price justification, its only 70 cents a gallong cheaper at base stock than class IV, which retails for twice as much. Shows at least to me that the big dough they charge for Class IV oils is pretty outrageous. Its pretty clear that the AmsOil folks at HQ have no problem staying fat and pretty with a dedicated customer base of their dealers and dues paying public customers. No complaint, I have been a dealer since 1980.
BTW, anyone know if any of the Class III diesel oils meet the new Cl-4 Spec?

jme

I think for the most part, it shows exactly the opposite! It shows that Group III "Synthetics" are way, way overpriced for what they are, "Synthetic" Rotella being perhaps one exception, it doesn't seem quite so overpriced.

Intelman34 · Sep 22, 2003

Well I no longer have to use diesel oils in a gasoline engine... I can use them in a diesel engine becuase I own a diesel now (talk about a dream come true)

I think I am going to go with Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 in my 99 24v Cummins equipped Ram. Hopefully I can get at least 6k out of it. The truck sees mainly freeway or roads with a speed limit of at least 45mph 85% of the time. No towing or hauling is ever done so 6k shouldn't be a problem, especially with the Fleetguard Stratapore Filter.

Drstressor · Sep 22, 2003

I have the same truck as you. I've done UOAs on Delvac after 7.5K that indicate the oil could go at least twice that long. The ISB engine is very easy on oil and is not working very hard in a pickup application. I know several people who go 9-10K with conventional HD oils and still get good analysis results. Don't waste your money with short change intervals. The engine will outlast the rest of the truck anyway.

sprintman · Sep 22, 2003

Doug Hillary is the one to talk to about D1. Many millions of kms experience with it in many different types of vehicles.

Doug Hillary · Sep 22, 2003

Hi,
Delvac 1 is simply an ecomomic's choice for me. It is a very durable oil and can be safely taken to extended drain intervals

As a worst example, I put D1 in a 12.7ltr Detroit with about 767kkms on it ( 450k+ miles )in Dec 2000. It was then downgraded from high use Interstate work. It had been on a high quality Castrol semi synthetic oil from new with 40kkms drain intervals.
We ran the D1 to 30kkms at its first change with 5 UOAs on the way. The oil was in great shape. We now change it out annually at about 35kkms
The engine now has about 900k trouble free kms on it
I would run a previuosly used smaller engine to about 3k miles on it initially. Then, go to annual changes with UOAs perhaps on the way

D1 has a unique ability to stay in grade

Regards

pscholte · Sep 24, 2003

Where does one FIND Delvac 1? I am one of the oil shoppingest fanatics on this site and I don't remember EVER seeing this oil.

sbc350gearhead · Sep 24, 2003

I think we have a site supporter that sells it. You can find it at large truck stops as well, or heavy equipment dealers.

Delvac 1 vs. Rotella T Full Synthetic

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