Hi there people,
First of all I did do a search but couldn't find an answer to my question so please go easy and keep it simple.
I have a Bandit 1250 which rarely sees much over 6000 rpm.More like 4000 when cruising. I'm coming to the end of my present oil supply (Elf Moto 10-40)and I'm sick of paying inflated prices. .Now I'm convinced about using an HDEO in my bike,but we dont get Rotella here in NZ, but can easily get Delo 400 or Delvac MX both dino 15-40. Delo 400 is the cheapest by quite a bit, but somewhere I read that it has too much Moly for our use. So my question is do you agree with that, has anybody that has used it experienced problems? Both are CI4+
I would appreciate your input.
Thanks
John
Delo 400 CI4+
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JHZR2
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delo is an excellent hdeo, better than the rest imo.
I am using Delo 400 15w-40 in my 2008 Goldwing, I only have 8,000 miles on the bike so far. Of that 8,000 miles, only 3,000 on the Delo. I was using Honda's GN4 oil. I am also using Delo in my Honda Shadow 1100 Spirit, with 18,000 miles on it. I did alot of reading about the different oils and I am reasonably convinced the HDEO's are very good for our bikes which share transmission, clutch, and engine oil lubrication. I noticed an immediate change in shifting when I went to Delo 400 - both bikes shifted much smoother than with GN4. However, I am only 3,000 miles into the Delo on both bikes. Just about time for another oil & filter change, and I intend to continue using Delo.
I also drive a Bandit 1250S and have been using Delo 400, Delvac 1300 or Rotella 15W-40 what ever is on sale for the last 16,000 miles without a problem.
Oldmanbj,
Delo is a fine oil from what I hear. I use Rotalla T. From the white pages I read Delo looks even more robust.
That said I had a 2004 Bandit 1200S, and it seen the redline daily I used Rotella T in it and it was fine. Point is, your Bandit will run just fine on HDEO and your wallet will thank you for it.
the CI4+ oils (that are now hard to find) hold up much better than the newer CJ4 oils do.
I have used the DELO 400 in my 83' Suzuki GS1100gk For several years now, and it works great. Rotella would be my second choice.
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: sunruh
the CI4+ oils (that are now hard to find) hold up much better than the newer CJ4 oils do.
Originally Posted By: sunruh
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: sunruh
the CI4+ oils (that are now hard to find) hold up much better than the newer CJ4 oils do.
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: sunruh
the CI4+ oils (that are now hard to find) hold up much better than the newer CJ4 oils do.
), I'm going to guess to him that means maintaining grade.
For me, I'm focusing on wear metals. To that end I've run a series of UOAs with Rotella CJ-4 and to my eye (amateur that I am) it looks like my wear metals on CJ-4 are perfectly fine. And the grade is holding ... at least in a Goldwing at 3K OCIs.
So Steve (it is Steve, right sunruh?) ... what was in your mind when you wrote about CI-4+ vs. CJ-4?I switched over to Rotella 5w40 synthetic in my ZG1400 on the second oil change. I had bought the gallon jug at W-Mart. Time for another oil change and I went back to Wally W. and they didn't carry that in the gallon. I had a quart left over from the previous change, so bought 3 more quarts and run a half quart low. Pouring the second quart in, I noticed the CI-4 rating on the bottle and picked up the first empty and it was CJ. The 3 quarts that I bought yesterday were CI and the one I bought last year was CJ. I wonder if there is any harm in mixing the two?
Originally Posted By: hogpops
I wonder if there is any harm in mixing the two?
I have a Bandit 1250 and have been using Rotella for 10,000 miles now with OCI's every 2,500 miles or so and it runs very well.....I may try Delvac for the next OCI.
IIRC
CI4 has a more robust add package than CJ4 especially in the Zinc and Phos.
CJ4 "may" have a better base stock. CJ4 does have less ash, which is a good thing.
I have a .pdf somewhere of an independent study showing that CI4 dino outperformed CJ4 dino. The problem with that report however didnt compare the same barnd to the same brand however. (for example Rotella dino only tested the CJ4, RTS only tested CI4, Delo only CI4 etc) It would have been nice to compare the (2) versions of each brand in the in the test.
The dino CJ4 oils did fall on the low end of the scale where as the CI4 dino and the CI4 synthetics toped the charts.
That said, I still use CJ4 rated Rotella without hesitation.
IMO the trend for newer and newer oil certifications will focus primarly on MPG and wear protection will play second fiddle.
don,
if hours use is the same.
if wear metals are the same.
but susvis is NOT the same. then there is a clear winner and loser.
especially if the winner IS in grade and the loser is NOT in grade.
SRT CJ4 tested against SRT CI4
steve
Originally Posted By: sunruh
don,
if hours use is the same.
if wear metals are the same.
but susvis is NOT the same. then there is a clear winner and loser.
especially if the winner IS in grade and the loser is NOT in grade.
SRT CJ4 tested against SRT CI4
steve
You're suggesting that CI-4+ maintained grade but CJ-4 did not, right?
Three questions:
- What's the key element of viscosity maintenance that makes it important for lubrication -- is it the film thickness that's maintained with a higher grade, which provides better protection of metal on metal contact?
- If yes to the first question, would you not expect wear metals to go up if metal on metal contact takes place?
- If my UOAs show no drop of grade below 15W-40 for my pussycat Goldwing at 3K UOAs, then it's really no big difference, right?
don,
yes.
over time, yes.
yes.
however, please note that all of these uoa are *NOT* as accurate as we would like them to be. when blackstoned cant provide the same results in 2 voa's from the same bottle just weeks apart. i tend to take their data with a grain of salt the size that cows use as a salt lick. so, a difference of 1-3ppm is realistically the same values.
most of the time their comments are off in the weeds and their "suggested" viscosity range typically crosses the REAL boundries of grades.
we have also witnessed on here a complete crank/bearing failure (vfr800 if i remember right) with no noticable rise in wear metals.
so, where does that leave us?
if you cant trust the minor changes in ppm AND you cant trust it to show a failure in wear metals. all that is left is susvis readings. which is a pretty expensive test for that alone.
in the end, all i have proven (if only to myself) is that "motorcycle" oil is pretty much a gold mine marketing trick that the oil companies use for the common folk suckers. there are a few (count them on 1 hand) that are what i consider "good" and the rest are just trying to blow sunshine up your tail pipe!
allison wet clutch test rules, the rest drools
What is the number or abbreviation for allison wet clutch test? I will look for this.
Originally Posted By: sunruh
the CI4+ oils (that are now hard to find) hold up much better than the newer CJ4 oils do.
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