Decent brands for boiling/freezing refractometer type for P-HOAT coolant?

Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
84
Location
Louisville, KY
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L 4D, DOHC. Using Valvoline's tool, I get Zerex Blue and Zerex Green for Asian vehicles (I checked the ingredients--they're exactly the same, the only difference is the dye used). It's unfortunately not available as a concentrate (probably so they can package half the product while charging more than double for the total volume), so the most I'll ever be able to do is dilute it (no, I don't plan on distilling it to increase the concentration of the coolant). I do still want a reliable meter to verify that it's within the "good enough" range for the mixture ratio. It contains ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol; I've seen some refractometers measure the freezing point of ethylene glycol (I haven't seen any for diethylene), but without any boiling point measurement. I realize I can use a multimeter to check electrolyte levels too, but it couldn't hurt to check the concentration with a refractometer. The hard part seems not to be finding a refractometer that can check the boiling point, since as long as the freezing point is within range, the boiling point will also be within range, but is just finding a reputable brand (everything on Amazon seems to be produced by fly-by-night companies).
 
Are refractometers difficult to make? Those cheap Amazon refractometers are probably OK to use :unsure:

You can get Peak OET blue or green in concentrate form. They are just as good as Zerex :)
 
Are refractometers difficult to make? Those cheap Amazon refractometers are probably OK to use :unsure:

You can get Peak OET blue or green in concentrate form. They are just as good as Zerex :)
Ok. I'll see if the store I'm returning my all-purpose coolant to has some concentrated Peak brand OET green for Asian vehicles. Peak advertises the formula as working better at 70/30. I don't know how I would go about offsetting the reading on the refractometer for more highly concentrated mixtures. Seems like refractometers ought to be adjustable or have swappable slides with different metrics on them, kind of like those View-Master toys.
 
The Peak blue and green are exactly the same just a different color, they are playing stupid pet tricks. I use the blue because there is no chance of confusing it with old school green or an all makes and models coolant. Because the diethylene content is very low it does not change the readings on the refractometer, I have a cheap one from Amazon and have used ones cost 10X as much and it was no discernible difference in either performance or build quality just the price.


This is the blue and the green SDS.


 
Ok. I'll see if the store I'm returning my all-purpose coolant to has some concentrated Peak brand OET green for Asian vehicles. Peak advertises the formula as working better at 70/30. I don't know how I would go about offsetting the reading on the refractometer for more highly concentrated mixtures. Seems like refractometers ought to be adjustable or have swappable slides with different metrics on them, kind of like those View-Master toys.

Autozone has it, but online-only. Free shipping over $35
 
Ok. I'll see if the store I'm returning my all-purpose coolant to has some concentrated Peak brand OET green for Asian vehicles. Peak advertises the formula as working better at 70/30. I don't know how I would go about offsetting the reading on the refractometer for more highly concentrated mixtures.
If your refractometer only confirms that 50/50 is good, draw a sample of your mix then dilute it with 40% more water to bring it down to 50/50.
 
What do you mean, offsetting the reading? That's what the refractometer does. Reads the concentration.
In other words, I want it to have less water and more coolant, so there's 70% coolant/30% water, but I also want my refractometer to confirm at any given time in the future that it's 70/30.
 
That's what the refractometer does, tells you coolant concentration in either percent or the freezing point.

Here is about 20% coolant that will freeze at 16°F. If it was higher, it could show 70% freezing at -84°F

71ma0bCibZL._SL1500_.jpg
 
For what reason?
For the Peak concentrated stuff, they say in their marketing specification document, it says that 70/30 is more effective than 50/50. Not that it would really matter in my area, since -22F is the coldest it's ever gotten here, and since the upper boiling limit for the 70/30 mix is only +11F hotter than the 50/50 mix, so admittedly it's really not that big of a deal after all. I guess if I were modding it into a rally racer it would make a difference. Maybe it just would cut down on wear and corrosion if it were more concentrated, but I probably shouldn't try to rationalize thinking about it too hard. At this point it's more a matter of making sure there's sufficient coolant (so that it's at least 50/50) and not worry about there being too much coolant (in other words, it's not a problem if it's in the range of 50/50 to 70/30).
Peak Asian concentrate blue/green
Screenshot 2022-08-31 201435.jpg
 
You do know that the lesser the concentration the better the heat transfer and the cooler it will run. Many race cars run straight water.
Oh, I didn't know that. It's weird that the upper boiling point is higher with the 70/30 than the 50/50. Maybe that means it doesn't boil, but it still runs hotter.
 
Ok. I'll see if the store I'm returning my all-purpose coolant to has some concentrated Peak brand OET green for Asian vehicles. Peak advertises the formula as working better at 70/30. I don't know how I would go about offsetting the reading on the refractometer for more highly concentrated mixtures. Seems like refractometers ought to be adjustable or have swappable slides with different metrics on them, kind of like those View-Master toys.
Where do you live? Unless you live in Siberian Russia and see temperatures below -35f frequently there is no reason to go with 70% antifreeze.

On the flip side going with less than 40% antifreeze may compromise the anti corrosion properties or damage the water pump early.
 
I enjoy using a refractometer much better than the simple floating ball or needle gauges. I like the scale Atikovi shows above that has both percent concentration AND freeze protection temperature (not a necessity, but convenient). Its also nice to have one that is temperature compensating, but again not a requirement.
 
Oh, I didn't know that. It's weird that the upper boiling point is higher with the 70/30 than the 50/50. Maybe that means it doesn't boil, but it still runs hotter.
Yes, boiling point and effective heat transfer are two separate things. There in Kentucky I would use a lower antifreeze concentration as it is not necessary for your climate. Just don't use less than the manufacturer specifies.
 
Back
Top