I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma with the 2.7 four banger.I am having a problem with carbon build-up in the combustion area.I took it back to the dealer 8000 miles ago and they decarboned it.It was fine for about 4000 miles,but now it is back.I would like to Seafoam or water decarb but I am unsure of where to introduce the liquid.Any ideas?Please do not tell me to use Fuel Power as I developed this problem after usig it for 13000 miles at the rate of 1 ounce to 5 gallons of fuel.Thanks
Decarbon combustion area
- Thread starter Randy Petruney
- Start date
- Status
Please don’t take this as insulting, just trying to cover all bases
Do you know what a vacuum hose is? If not, skip the next paragraph
Try to find on closest to the TB and/or farthest away from the engine block. The farther away you get, the more evenly you can distribute what you are using.
If the vacuum line does not get you very far from the engine, you could pull your intake tract out and spray into the TB itself. The Vacuum line will introduce more, but the TB will definitely get your better spread.
As mentioned in the water decarbonizing for dummies thread in the Additives section,
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003942#000000
I highly recommend using the basketball air pump nozzle. It increases the safety margin when introducing the water/seafoam.
Just make sure that the car is up to full operating temperature(drive her around for about 15 minutes), and keep the RPMS around 2-3K.
Do you know what a vacuum hose is? If not, skip the next paragraph
Try to find on closest to the TB and/or farthest away from the engine block. The farther away you get, the more evenly you can distribute what you are using.
If the vacuum line does not get you very far from the engine, you could pull your intake tract out and spray into the TB itself. The Vacuum line will introduce more, but the TB will definitely get your better spread.
As mentioned in the water decarbonizing for dummies thread in the Additives section,
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003942#000000
I highly recommend using the basketball air pump nozzle. It increases the safety margin when introducing the water/seafoam.
Just make sure that the car is up to full operating temperature(drive her around for about 15 minutes), and keep the RPMS around 2-3K.
I'd rather decarbon using Seafoam or B12 Chemtool. I don't really like putting water in newer computerized engines. But the instructions would be the same.
I'd probably follow up with some Redline SI-1 in the tank probably a full bottle, then do maintenance doses afterwards.
Maybe even using good ole Marvel mystery oil in each tank would work better at keeping it clean.
I'd probably follow up with some Redline SI-1 in the tank probably a full bottle, then do maintenance doses afterwards.
Maybe even using good ole Marvel mystery oil in each tank would work better at keeping it clean.
I've seen the results of both water and seafoam.
Water works better, and when you compare the cost of distilled water per quantity to the cost of seafoam, you could say, that water works multitudes better. (example, running $0.50 worth of distilled water through your intake and into the combustion chamber, would do significantly more cleaning than running $0.50 worth of seafoam through it)
Water works better, and when you compare the cost of distilled water per quantity to the cost of seafoam, you could say, that water works multitudes better. (example, running $0.50 worth of distilled water through your intake and into the combustion chamber, would do significantly more cleaning than running $0.50 worth of seafoam through it)
Give this a try, it has worked for several that I know off.
Performance Features
* Improves performance
* Maximizes power
* Improves ignition
* Helps fuel burn cleaner
* Removes carbon deposits
* Reduces engine knock
* Improves responsiveness
* Inhibits corrosion
Performance Features
* Improves performance
* Maximizes power
* Improves ignition
* Helps fuel burn cleaner
* Removes carbon deposits
* Reduces engine knock
* Improves responsiveness
* Inhibits corrosion
How is this better/different than Amsoil PI additive?
YOu have FP right, how about mixing some in with distilled water, or using the FP at the end of a decarbon, and then letting the car sit like you would with a seafoam clean and letting the FP soak in.
As far as fuel power is concerned It did not work for me.I used it religiously for 13000 miles and this problem still happened.I am beginning to think that additives in general probably should not be used.
I was saying if you have some left, use it on the tail end of the decarbon, meaning after you have sucked up all the water you want to use, suck up an oz or two of FP, then shut the car off. The FP will be left sitting in the intake manifold, and after waiting a while, start the car up, and the junk will be sucked out.
Randy, you have a problem with fuel dilution or running too cool that is causing your problem.
Do you have a used oil analysis for this engine ?
FP is very strong and if in 13,000 miles it did not clean up the intake and upper cylinder you need to correct the cause.
Do you have a used oil analysis for this engine ?
FP is very strong and if in 13,000 miles it did not clean up the intake and upper cylinder you need to correct the cause.
This might sound funny, but this is what my grand father used to do. YOu need to go get three things. A hyperdermic needle(pharmicy 25cents) 1/4 hose and one of those stone bubblers for small aquariums. Take the needle and put it at one end of the hose and connect the other end to the bubbler. Fill up your windshield washer resivor and put the bubler stone end in there. Then find a vacuum line to put the hyperdermic needle into. Then take it for a drive untill the resivor is empty. usually 20 miles for myself.
Just make sure when you buy the needle you get the smallest one possible. I keep my hose setup stashed behind the battery so I can give it a shot of water every oil change.
Just make sure when you buy the needle you get the smallest one possible. I keep my hose setup stashed behind the battery so I can give it a shot of water every oil change.
I missed this thread! You should not have any problems with carbon. I run Lucas UCL 3x a year and Techron at least once a year just to maintain things. I am running 87 octane gas.
My used oil analysis on this motor:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003027
My used oil analysis on this motor:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003027
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
