Dealer Fill 0W20, 9,574 miles, 18 Lexus GS350

I think UOA's are interesting but nearly useless in most passenger car/SUV/light truck applications. The wear metals are really not bad at all, the copper might be a tad high but the iron is nothing to be concerned about as stated this is still some break-in going on. As PT said, I would worry more about the silicon and maybe the air filtration being a bit loosey goosey. I'd stick to a quality 0W-20 but cap it at a year OCI...
It’s brand-new. Seriously doubt there’s any problem with the air filtration.

That silicon is from silicone RTV-type sealant.
 
Even though there are 20K miles on the engine the oil had only been changed once at 10k miles before this sample was taken during the second oil change - still lots of wear-in metals in there. I do 5K mile OCI until 20K miles on my Toyota engines then go to a 10K mile OCI and then use 30K miles as the absolute minimum to get a baseline - but the oil has already been changed 4x by then.

this is why I like to flush out the initial break-in metals on a new engine ASAP. I just don’t see any reason to have an Abrasive oily soup flowing around the block, scratching stuff up and lowering the tolerances and clearances of bearings, etc. 🤦🏻‍♂️

I’ve done 1k initial oil changes on my last 3 or 4 new vehicles, followed by short 3k intervals. Wear metals flush out INSTANTLY and UOA show single digit numbers before even 10k miles. 🤷🏻‍♂️

it just seems like a healthier way to go, in my opinion.

i can’t imagine leaving the break-in metals in there for TEN THOUSAND MILES or longer. That means you have an abrasive oily soup scratching up your Brand New engine internals for a whole freakin YEAR!!! 🤯😳😬
 
I'd stick to the 0w-20. It would last you an easy 400k and more things would go wrong to make you trade it in than the engine giving out. Do you keep vehicles that long?
 
I'd stick to the 0w-20. It would last you an easy 400k and more things would go wrong to make you trade it in than the engine giving out. Do you keep vehicles that long?
Previous daily driver was an 03 G35 that I kept until 276K, still have my 02 Sequoia with 335K... so I do keep my cars around a long time. But you are correct in that other things star failing before the engine does.
 
I do firmly believe that if the owner of a car uses the proper oil and filter and does oil and filter changes specified by the manufacturer, the odds of a lubrication related problem are VERY slim.

Well, plenty of proud Hyundai owners with blown Theta II motors will disagree with you. In fact, Hyundai themselves will disagree with you, even though they will never fess up to the fact that they wrongly recommended 5W-20 in in GDI engines and 5W-30 in T-GDI engines that are notorious fuel diluters. They blamed it on manufacturing debrees and what not, yet they never wanted to tell the truth because they didn't want to get into even more trouble with the EPA. In Europe, the 2.4 GDI got Shell 5W-30 ACEA A3 motor oil as factory fill and the recommended oil. Anything Turbo got 5W-40. In Europe Hyundai never had the Theta II scandal, it was a US and Canada thing. In fact, they were sending out internal service bulletins to dealers to up the viscosity on these motors on the next oil change. America is thin oil crazy, so crazy that our thin oils are thinner and less effective when compared to European thin oils.

As far as the OP's elevated wear metals, they are from bad intake filtration and from a low quality K&N oil filter. Change the air filter, change the oil filter. Use FRAM, or Purolator, or OEM. K&N is garbage, they're the Lucas Oil of the filtration industry.
 
That airbox could have been undone and then not buttoned up properly by someone. Some silicon ingestion from installation of the Fumoto valve is a possibility, double check it. Use the Toyota oil and air filters when needed. Also I would use a 5w30 Dexos spec engine oil, any brand will do. Once the wear metal culprit(s) is found I would opt for 7.5k oci's. Good luck.
 
Well, plenty of proud Hyundai owners with blown Theta II motors will disagree with you. In fact, Hyundai themselves will disagree with you, even though they will never fess up to the fact that they wrongly recommended 5W-20 in in GDI engines and 5W-30 in T-GDI engines that are notorious fuel diluters. They blamed it on manufacturing debrees and what not, yet they never wanted to tell the truth because they didn't want to get into even more trouble with the EPA. In Europe, the 2.4 GDI got Shell 5W-30 ACEA A3 motor oil as factory fill and the recommended oil. Anything Turbo got 5W-40. In Europe Hyundai never had the Theta II scandal, it was a US and Canada thing. In fact, they were sending out internal service bulletins to dealers to up the viscosity on these motors on the next oil change. America is thin oil crazy, so crazy that our thin oils are thinner and less effective when compared to European thin oils.

As far as the OP's elevated wear metals, they are from bad intake filtration and from a low quality K&N oil filter. Change the air filter, change the oil filter. Use FRAM, or Purolator, or OEM. K&N is garbage, they're the Lucas Oil of the filtration industry.
Interesting... something I will be considering for my daughter's 1.5T 2017 Civic.
 
That airbox could have been undone and then not buttoned up properly by someone. Some silicon ingestion from installation of the Fumoto valve is a possibility, double check it. Use the Toyota oil and air filters when needed. Also I would use a 5w30 Dexos spec engine oil, any brand will do. Once the wear metal culprit(s) is found I would opt for 7.5k oci's. Good luck.
7.5K OCIs... on my radar. I plan on doing a few UOAs between 5 and 10K with this current fill.
 
Interesting... something I will be considering for my daughter's 1.5T 2017 Civic.

Well, keep OCIs at 5000 miles or less, and if possible, get premium gas to avoid fuel dilution. The Honda 1.5T is a notorious fuel diluter. Other than that, they're great cars.
 
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