Daily Driver, Mazda 6 Brake Recommendations

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24,428
Location
CA
Does anyone have experience with R1 concepts? A lot of Mazda nerds swear by them, but I’ve never heard of them. They have a legit looking site and have blank rotors and “daily driver” ceramic pads (I’m against drilled and or slotted rotors).
Most aftermarket rotors are fairly similar nowadays.
I think the R1/DFC pads are the same. DFC is a lot cheaper from Rockauto.
 

cos

Messages
1,474
Location
Metro Detroit
+1 for Raybestos Element 3 from Rock Auto. I recently installed them and so far am quite pleased. They are a forum favorite for a reason - arguably the best performance/value on the market today.
 
Messages
488
Location
VA, US
I have a pulsation that I need to resurface or replace them to fix when I do my brakes.
Fronts almost always need machining or replacement due to pulsation.
I've never worn out brake rotors in the first 100k miles.
Pulsations in brake pedal: The discs/rotors seldom pulsate because they physically got "warped".
Most of the times that is felt when using cheap pads (or not correctly bedding the pads after replacement), because the friction material removed from pad will deposit in un-even patches on the disc surface and those will pulsate the brakes. Those "high" patches on disc will heat up, harden, and extract more and more material from the soft pads and that material will be deposited in the same patch making the situation worse.
People blame the rotors when is fact is their choices and know-how.

Related to this:
Same cheap pads will sometimes have hard inclusions in them from factory, and those will score the discs.
Or they are soft enough to trap and embed harder dust particles (especially if driven off road) and score the disc also.

LE: When I said "cheap" I meant cheaply constructed, not cheaply sold. There are pads out there that are cheaply constructed but sold at a premium, because good marketing. Brembo, Akebono comes to mind, they tricked me in buying their products only to have replaced them because various issues (Brembo are hard on discs, won't deposing any coating on them and they are squealing at low speed braking, Akebono don't bite well cold and have a short compression, they don't modulate as well as the OE Advics).
 
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t1snwrbrdr12

Thread starter
Messages
308
Location
MD
Pulsations in brake pedal: The discs/rotors seldom pulsate because they physically got "warped".
Most of the times that is felt when using cheap pads (or not correctly bedding the pads after replacement), because the friction material removed from pad will deposit in un-even patches on the disc surface and those will pulsate the brakes. Those "high" patches on disc will heat up, harden, and extract more and more material from the soft pads and that material will be deposited in the same patch making the situation worse.
People blame the rotors when is fact is their choices and know-how.

Related to this:
Same cheap pads will sometimes have hard inclusions in them from factory, and those will score the discs.
Or they are soft enough to trap and embed harder dust particles (especially if driven off road) and score the disc also.

LE: When I said "cheap" I meant cheaply constructed, not cheaply sold. There are pads out there that are cheaply constructed but sold at a premium, because good marketing. Brembo, Akebono comes to mind, they tricked me in buying their products only to have replaced them because various issues (Brembo are hard on discs, won't deposing any coating on them and they are squealing at low speed braking, Akebono don't bite well cold and have a short compression, they don't modulate as well as the OE Advics).

this is all my oem brakes and I’ve resurfaced plenty thousands of rotors to know how to fix a brake pulsation. I’ve read people’s thoughts on pulsations on this site. I can’t say I really buy into your all’s fixes of hard braking or whatever you all say to rid the rotors of brake pad deposits.

Resurfacing works, although leaves with with less rotor to dissipate the heat, and likely another pulsation in the near future. From reading some Mazda groups, these cars seem super prone to it...as do many cars I’ve worked on. Likely a result of the area I live in too, or traffic is horrible.
 
Messages
488
Location
VA, US
I’ve resurfaced plenty thousands of rotors to know how to fix a brake pulsation.
Because almost nobody does bed-in after a brake job. Slap and go.
Shops know that, but they like their repeat customers to come more often with those "warped rotor" jobs. Plus, most of the time, they don't have the empty street next to their shop to do a proper bed in.
Resurfacing works
Of course it works. Takes away the bad deposits and some metal.
But it would not be needed if the good pads were correctly bedded in the first place. I do brakes on my own cars (maybe 10-12 cars by now, all bought used) and never had a pulsation after my job. Because I use good pads and I do bed them in after installation.
Any brake pad maker instructions say how to bed them in, but who reads or follows those?

PS: I learned that as a teen, before Internet, by watching a neighbor doing runs and hard braking after his brake job.
 
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Messages
33
Location
TX
I've had good success with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on two Honda Accords and an Infiniti sedan. I also used their semi-metallic pads on a 1/2-ton Chevy truck with excellent results, especially compared to store brand pads. Don't know what the semi-metallics all called now. They used to have an "MX" part number prefix.
 
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