Daily Driven 4x4 suggestion

[Dumc87]

Hey, just signed up...
would like some input from you guys what would be your brand recommendation and viscosity.

Right now im running Castrol Edge 10w30 with a Bosch Oil Filter.. pretty good stuff.

It's a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 4x4 in the Florida summer heat, lol.

Talked to a few people, and one suggestion is Mobil 1 with some MOA.

I would also like to do all the fluids, but not the Diff. fluid, as I'll be doing a swap of axles and will get superior fluid at that time.

Thanks!

 

[tomcat27]

alot of people run heavy duty 15w40 in the 4.0's. Rotella, Delvac, etc.

dont forget to change the transmission fluid and transfer case fluid.

 

[Summerwind]

If Castrol has "treated you right", no reason to switch it IMHO Mobil 1 is certainly great oil as well. Try a change if you like, and see what your motor "tells" you, cant go wrong either way!

 

[Dumc87]

I heard about the heavy duty stuff... my friend (graduated UTI) says not to use it in anything but a diesel... not sure if that's just "by the book" though.

Edge was good, but I'm always trying to see what mixes are good.

In my dad's dakota, Mobil clean 5000 and some lucas oil stabilizer worked out real well, but i want to stay synthetic.

I was thinking of going Royal Purp ... but I Want to try that MOA stuff. Heard a story that my friend had an oil leak (pump failed) so he ran about 500 miles on the residue MOA leaves behind... pretty cool stuff.

I wrote a separate thread concerning ATF fluids.. whats a performance brand of fluid for the Trans and TC?

 

[The_Eric]

There's nothing about an HDEO that will ham your engine. SRT6 5w-40 is popular.

 

[Gary Allan]

A decent 10w30 or 5w-40 works well in the 4.0 ...as does 15w40 ..it's not picky. Buy a synthetic or conventional based on how long you want to keep the oil in the sump.

The rest of the drivetrain ..just go to the Amsoil site and walk down the list. There's lots of competition for the sump, but when it comes to other drive train components Amsoil can't be beat.

 

[Dumc87]

how about oil filter?

im thinking Wix part # 51085

 

[The_Eric]

The 51085 is an excellent choice.

 

[Gary Allan]

Yes, the Wix filter is a great one.


When your UTI buddy advised against diesel oils, there are some that aren't "S" (spark) rated. Most are mixed fleet/dual rated (both "C" compression and "S" spark).

Shell Gardinia only carries a CF rating and is a 40 monograde. Some are for aviation and have an equivalent API rating. There are others, but most that you'll see commonly available will be dual rated.

 

[Dumc87]

That's good to know Mr Allan!

Leaning toward the T6 15w40 with some MOA additive right now.

 

[Dumc87]

Wanted to get some followup on this topic... I know it's kind of lame to bring it up, but basically I'm back to deciding which Oil to go with... I ended up getting Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 for the winter, now I want to get a thicker oil again.

Considering going to a syn-blen since I've pretty much exhausted any stock performance out of the 4.0 with 145K on the odo. I drive a mix of interstate/city/offroad, with City "stop and go" being the more prevalent. Plus I look forward to changing my oil every 3k, so the synthetic is a "Waste" of money in that aspect.

My current interests are Delo 400 with IsoSyn 5w40 or Rotella T5 5w40

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted By: Dumc87
Plus I look forward to changing my oil every 3k, so the synthetic is a "Waste" of money in that aspect.

My current interests are Delo 400 with IsoSyn 5w40 or Rotella T5 5w40
.

You are a prime candidate for Super Tech, or whatever "cheapest oil of the day" you can find. Any current rated oil can do 3K with total ease.

 

[Dumc87]

That's what I've been doing, only on the Synthetic sales, lol. The previous owner always ran Mobil 1, and they make good stuff, I just usually get the synthetic that's on sale. Another reason for the 3k intervals is to find which oil it likes best. So far it's been Castrol Edge 10w30, but I read Rotella's T6 peforms well. I may try that and let it run for 5k, until the ODO hits 150k.

 

[Steve S]

There certainly isn't any benefit for using syn in Fla especially with your oil change intervals. I think do not understand oil.

 

[Norm Olt]

Any HDEO 15w40 on sale, with rebate where possible. If you are changing the oil every 3K you'll probably never have an "oil related" problem short of a failed oil pump, etc., until the engine flat wears out...

Cheers!

 

[Dumc87]

Well compared to several guys here, nope I don't understand diddly poo about oil.

I get the concept of thicker oil for hotter temps, and less viscous fluid for colder weather.

I don't understand the breakdowns of the metals and minerals, the used oil analysis, etc.

Anyway, I browsed Wal Mart, Advance and PepBoys to get a gist of what oil I ought to go with.

I think I may try my own syn blend this round with a gallon of Delo 15w40 and 2 qts of Rotella t6 5w40.

 

[Norm Olt]

"I think I may try my own syn blend this round with a gallon of Delo 15w40 and 2 qts of Rotella t6 5w40."

Sounds like a plan. Why not buy 2 gallons of 15w40 and one of T6 so you'll be ready one OCI down the road?

Cheers!

 

[GenSan]

If you liked Castrol Edge 10w30 you might want to give Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula aka German Castrol a run.

I'm currently on a run with German Castrol in a 1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4X2 w/ a 3.4L V6. So far some excellent and unexpected
cleaning going on that I've never experienced with most of the full synthetics available OTC and Rotella T5.

My engine is clean inside no varnish/sludge. So I wasn't expecting black oil on a blotter test at only 1,000 miles.

Whatever and wherever the GC was cleaning did a FAR better job than all of these oils I had tried prior:
Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra, Castrol Edge and reg. Syntec, Mobil 1 & Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend & full synthetic, and Rotella T5.
All of these other premium oils I've tried never were that diesel black at only 1,000 miles in my engine.
They get dark black around 6,000 - 7,000 miles.

 

[whip]

with your driving, and the short OCI, there's no sense spending money on anything other than basic conventional oil. Use the recommended weight. If your cooling system is working, the oil isn't affected by summer time heat, so a thicker oil isn't necessary.

 

[tig1]

Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois) use the wt your engine calls for. With modern oils, no need to change back and forth.