Daily Driven 4x4 suggestion
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois)
Are you sure about that?
Since that is just your opinion,
here are the facts for others:
Average mean temps. by state
Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois)
Are you sure about that?
Since that is just your opinion,
here are the facts for others:
Average mean temps. by state
Originally Posted By: GenSan
Originally Posted By: tig1
Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois)
Are you sure about that?
Since that is just your opinion,
here are the facts for others:
Average mean temps. by state
Average year round temps would be higher in Florida for obvious reasons, however Illinois will have higher temps in the summer. Last year we had 102-105 on several occasions and high 90s a lot.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois)
Are you sure about that?
Since that is just your opinion,
here are the facts for others:
Average mean temps. by state
Average year round temps would be higher in Florida for obvious reasons, however Illinois will have higher temps in the summer. Last year we had 102-105 on several occasions and high 90s a lot.
Originally Posted By: GenSan
If you liked Castrol Edge 10w30 you might want to give Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula aka German Castrol a run.
I'm currently on a run with German Castrol in a 1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4X2 w/ a 3.4L V6. So far some excellent and unexpected
cleaning going on that I've never experienced with most of the full synthetics available OTC and Rotella T5.
My engine is clean inside no varnish/sludge. So I wasn't expecting black oil on a blotter test at only 1,000 miles.
Whatever and wherever the GC was cleaning did a FAR better job than all of these oils I had tried prior:
Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra, Castrol Edge and reg. Syntec, Mobil 1 & Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend & full synthetic, and Rotella T5.
All of these other premium oils I've tried never were that diesel black at only 1,000 miles in my engine.
They get dark black around 6,000 - 7,000 miles.
If Edge made a 5w40 I'd go back to that in a heartbeat! I'm sure they make a 10w40, but all I see in Edge is 5w30 and 10w30 mostly.
Side note, I think Edge changed their bottle from gold, to black, and put "With SYNTEC" on the label... It really confused me as Syntec comes in a black bottle as well, but I looked it over for a good 2 minutes reading "Edge" over and over, lol.
My reasoning for the wishy washy of what to get, is it's got 145 miles, but has had synthetics for as long as I know. Nothing's leaking and I'd rather keep it mostly synthetic, I just change every 3K cause I thoroughly enjoy maintaining the Jeep. Right now the Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (typo'ed 5w20 earlier, oops) is starting to break down, or so it looks. Plus I don't want the Bosch filter I have on there anymore (got it as a package deal).. I'm not too fond of Bosch products.
Anyway, I figure if I get a thicker syn blend, I'll be able to keep it relatively slick like it's accustom too, but also save a little money.
If you liked Castrol Edge 10w30 you might want to give Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula aka German Castrol a run.
I'm currently on a run with German Castrol in a 1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4X2 w/ a 3.4L V6. So far some excellent and unexpected
cleaning going on that I've never experienced with most of the full synthetics available OTC and Rotella T5.
My engine is clean inside no varnish/sludge. So I wasn't expecting black oil on a blotter test at only 1,000 miles.
Whatever and wherever the GC was cleaning did a FAR better job than all of these oils I had tried prior:
Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra, Castrol Edge and reg. Syntec, Mobil 1 & Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend & full synthetic, and Rotella T5.
All of these other premium oils I've tried never were that diesel black at only 1,000 miles in my engine.
They get dark black around 6,000 - 7,000 miles.
If Edge made a 5w40 I'd go back to that in a heartbeat! I'm sure they make a 10w40, but all I see in Edge is 5w30 and 10w30 mostly.
Side note, I think Edge changed their bottle from gold, to black, and put "With SYNTEC" on the label... It really confused me as Syntec comes in a black bottle as well, but I looked it over for a good 2 minutes reading "Edge" over and over, lol.
My reasoning for the wishy washy of what to get, is it's got 145 miles, but has had synthetics for as long as I know. Nothing's leaking and I'd rather keep it mostly synthetic, I just change every 3K cause I thoroughly enjoy maintaining the Jeep. Right now the Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (typo'ed 5w20 earlier, oops) is starting to break down, or so it looks. Plus I don't want the Bosch filter I have on there anymore (got it as a package deal).. I'm not too fond of Bosch products.
Anyway, I figure if I get a thicker syn blend, I'll be able to keep it relatively slick like it's accustom too, but also save a little money.
Originally Posted By: Norm Olt
"I think I may try my own syn blend this round with a gallon of Delo 15w40 and 2 qts of Rotella t6 5w40."
Sounds like a plan. Why not buy 2 gallons of 15w40 and one of T6 so you'll be ready one OCI down the road?
Cheers!
Well, that's a valid statement. Hmm! Would be 11x2 for Delo, and 20x1 for t6... would be 45 or so with tax... still cheaper than Royal Purple, and two changes!
Really wish Wix's were sold in the local stores. Purolators seem to do a fine job though. But I'll be making a couple online orders, so I'll look at Rockauto, Jegs and Summit for 2 wix filters.
BTW, like the "Cheers!" on your posts.
"I think I may try my own syn blend this round with a gallon of Delo 15w40 and 2 qts of Rotella t6 5w40."
Sounds like a plan. Why not buy 2 gallons of 15w40 and one of T6 so you'll be ready one OCI down the road?
Cheers!
Well, that's a valid statement. Hmm! Would be 11x2 for Delo, and 20x1 for t6... would be 45 or so with tax... still cheaper than Royal Purple, and two changes!
Really wish Wix's were sold in the local stores. Purolators seem to do a fine job though. But I'll be making a couple online orders, so I'll look at Rockauto, Jegs and Summit for 2 wix filters.
BTW, like the "Cheers!" on your posts.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: GenSan
Originally Posted By: tig1
Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois)
Are you sure about that?
Since that is just your opinion,
here are the facts for others:
Average mean temps. by state
Average year round temps would be higher in Florida for obvious reasons, however Illinois will have higher temps in the summer. Last year we had 102-105 on several occasions and high 90s a lot.
One reason I know the Midwest gets hotter is the stale air that builds up versus Florida's cross breezes from the Gulf/Atlantic. I was born in Iowa, and visited a city up there, Spillville I think it was, and their downtown section gets REALLY hot. I believe the temps off the asphalt reach 120+ on occasion.
Year round though, Florida is just about as hot as you can get. Humid after it rains, but I believe Arizona has the Humid award.
Originally Posted By: GenSan
Originally Posted By: tig1
Since it doesn't get all that hot in Florida,(gets hotter here in Illinois)
Are you sure about that?
Since that is just your opinion,
here are the facts for others:
Average mean temps. by state
Average year round temps would be higher in Florida for obvious reasons, however Illinois will have higher temps in the summer. Last year we had 102-105 on several occasions and high 90s a lot.
One reason I know the Midwest gets hotter is the stale air that builds up versus Florida's cross breezes from the Gulf/Atlantic. I was born in Iowa, and visited a city up there, Spillville I think it was, and their downtown section gets REALLY hot. I believe the temps off the asphalt reach 120+ on occasion.
Year round though, Florida is just about as hot as you can get. Humid after it rains, but I believe Arizona has the Humid award.
Originally Posted By: Ringo
Jeep 4.0 + 3-5k OCI's + Florida in summer = Delo 15w40 ( one great oil ), Rotella 15w40 or 5w40. No need to mix them. Work on the rest of your vehicle, as your oil
needs will be well taken care of.
jringo
Thanks for the input. I realize there's no "need" to mix them, but seeing as I'm somewhat hard headed about doing things I want to do, I'll most likely end up mixing them to get a little synthetic and save some money on the side, lol.
I really enjoy my Jeep.
Jeep 4.0 + 3-5k OCI's + Florida in summer = Delo 15w40 ( one great oil ), Rotella 15w40 or 5w40. No need to mix them. Work on the rest of your vehicle, as your oil
needs will be well taken care of.
jringo
Thanks for the input. I realize there's no "need" to mix them, but seeing as I'm somewhat hard headed about doing things I want to do, I'll most likely end up mixing them to get a little synthetic and save some money on the side, lol.
I really enjoy my Jeep.
Originally Posted By: whip
with your driving, and the short OCI, there's no sense spending money on anything other than basic conventional oil. Use the recommended weight. If your cooling system is working, the oil isn't affected by summer time heat, so a thicker oil isn't necessary.
Sometimes my temp gauge will go up.
My coolant was flushed over a year ago and refilled with green stuff, but on occasion some red chrysler fluid will burp out of the radiator. I mostly refill with Distilled water now, so I think the rise in temps is due to the water evaporating.
Not the best method, but as you can tell by my OC intervals, I'm fairly quick to remedy any situation that pops up.
Actually just topped off about a gallon of Distilled yesterday, Temps are running just under 210, around 200, after a slight spike to about 230 on the way home monday.
with your driving, and the short OCI, there's no sense spending money on anything other than basic conventional oil. Use the recommended weight. If your cooling system is working, the oil isn't affected by summer time heat, so a thicker oil isn't necessary.
Sometimes my temp gauge will go up.
My coolant was flushed over a year ago and refilled with green stuff, but on occasion some red chrysler fluid will burp out of the radiator. I mostly refill with Distilled water now, so I think the rise in temps is due to the water evaporating.
Not the best method, but as you can tell by my OC intervals, I'm fairly quick to remedy any situation that pops up.
Actually just topped off about a gallon of Distilled yesterday, Temps are running just under 210, around 200, after a slight spike to about 230 on the way home monday.
4.0's will run 300,000 miles with typical non fussy oil changes.Most burn no oil between changes at 200,000 miles.If you drive easy until the engine is warmed up a 15-40 is good for these old school design engines.
But 4.0 's do not tolerate overheating and will crack a head eventually.210 F is fine,230 F is pushing the limit.If it's heating up at lower speed do check the engine driven fan as the clutch drive usually starts to slip badly with age.And you do hear the electric fan come on at about 210 degrees? And the electric fan comes when ever the AC is on.Generally the temperature gauges are reasonable accurate,but ya never know.Watch the gauge as the engine warms up,it may rise to about the 210 mark then drop slighty as the thermostat opens.Assuming the engine has a 195 stat,you can say the gauge is reasonably accurate. Maybe it's time for a new radiator?
But 4.0 's do not tolerate overheating and will crack a head eventually.210 F is fine,230 F is pushing the limit.If it's heating up at lower speed do check the engine driven fan as the clutch drive usually starts to slip badly with age.And you do hear the electric fan come on at about 210 degrees? And the electric fan comes when ever the AC is on.Generally the temperature gauges are reasonable accurate,but ya never know.Watch the gauge as the engine warms up,it may rise to about the 210 mark then drop slighty as the thermostat opens.Assuming the engine has a 195 stat,you can say the gauge is reasonably accurate. Maybe it's time for a new radiator?
A 98 Grand Cherokee 4.0 doesn't have an electric fan, it's mechanical only.
Originally Posted By: Truckedup
4.0's will run 300,000 miles with typical non fussy oil changes.Most burn no oil between changes at 200,000 miles.If you drive easy until the engine is warmed up a 15-40 is good for these old school design engines.
But 4.0 's do not tolerate overheating and will crack a head eventually.210 F is fine,230 F is pushing the limit.If it's heating up at lower speed do check the engine driven fan as the clutch drive usually starts to slip badly with age.And you do hear the electric fan come on at about 210 degrees? And the electric fan comes when ever the AC is on.Generally the temperature gauges are reasonable accurate,but ya never know.Watch the gauge as the engine warms up,it may rise to about the 210 mark then drop slighty as the thermostat opens.Assuming the engine has a 195 stat,you can say the gauge is reasonably accurate. Maybe it's time for a new radiator?
Well since I added the water, it's stayed around 190* on the gauge. I just think the water is boiling over, and I just need to add actual coolant.
Also, I ended up going with 3 qts Kendalls Syn Blend 10w40 and 3 qts Kendalls Full Synthetic 10w30. I know the 4.0 isn't picky, and I've wanted to try that oil for some time, and noticed it was on a clearance section. Figured it was as good as time as any!
4.0's will run 300,000 miles with typical non fussy oil changes.Most burn no oil between changes at 200,000 miles.If you drive easy until the engine is warmed up a 15-40 is good for these old school design engines.
But 4.0 's do not tolerate overheating and will crack a head eventually.210 F is fine,230 F is pushing the limit.If it's heating up at lower speed do check the engine driven fan as the clutch drive usually starts to slip badly with age.And you do hear the electric fan come on at about 210 degrees? And the electric fan comes when ever the AC is on.Generally the temperature gauges are reasonable accurate,but ya never know.Watch the gauge as the engine warms up,it may rise to about the 210 mark then drop slighty as the thermostat opens.Assuming the engine has a 195 stat,you can say the gauge is reasonably accurate. Maybe it's time for a new radiator?
Well since I added the water, it's stayed around 190* on the gauge. I just think the water is boiling over, and I just need to add actual coolant.
Also, I ended up going with 3 qts Kendalls Syn Blend 10w40 and 3 qts Kendalls Full Synthetic 10w30. I know the 4.0 isn't picky, and I've wanted to try that oil for some time, and noticed it was on a clearance section. Figured it was as good as time as any!
OK so a couple startups and the 4.0 is a bit noisier than before.
I added a can of MOA to the mix to try and quiet things down.
I'll put some more miles on it to see if the oil just needs to thicken up or something.
Otherwise, I'll definitely be going to a 15w40
I added a can of MOA to the mix to try and quiet things down.
I'll put some more miles on it to see if the oil just needs to thicken up or something.
Otherwise, I'll definitely be going to a 15w40
mpg x capacity (including add oil) x 60 (SN/GF5 PCMO) or 90 (HDEO).
Im going to assume you get 15.0 mpg and hold 6 qt and have to add no add oil.
Name Brand SN/GF5 10W30
15.0 x 6 x 60 = 5400 miles
Change it ever 5000 miles (6,000 miles with 1 Quart of add oil)
Rotella T 15W40
15.0 x 6 x 90 = 8100 miles
Change it ever 8000 miles (10,000 miles with 2 Quart of add oil)
Your choice but from what Ive seen the Jeep 4.0L seems to do a bit better on heavier oils.
Im going to assume you get 15.0 mpg and hold 6 qt and have to add no add oil.
Name Brand SN/GF5 10W30
15.0 x 6 x 60 = 5400 miles
Change it ever 5000 miles (6,000 miles with 1 Quart of add oil)
Rotella T 15W40
15.0 x 6 x 90 = 8100 miles
Change it ever 8000 miles (10,000 miles with 2 Quart of add oil)
Your choice but from what Ive seen the Jeep 4.0L seems to do a bit better on heavier oils.
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