They're flinging green guacamole grease all over the lower half of the engine compartment. Eventually there won't be any grease left and something is going to happen to the CV joints. I plan on running them until that certain something happens and then I'll replace both drive shafts. What are the signs to watch out for that'll indicate the CV joints are approaching toast?
CV Boots are Split
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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When turning you will hear a popping or clicking sound. Mine have always started at low speeds.
They more than likely need to be replaced. IMO, I would replace then both since the labor amount should be the same for both. Be careful because if they get too bad, then can and will snap. I have seen that happen many times.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
They're flinging green guacamole grease all over the lower half of the engine compartment. Eventually there won't be any grease left and something is going to happen to the CV joints. I plan on running them until that certain something happens and then I'll replace both drive shafts. What are the signs to watch out for that'll indicate the CV joints are approaching toast?
If you have grease still coming out why not replace the boots and refill with grease?
Then you will have no problems with the CV joints and half shafts.
Fix them now is going to be A LOT cheaper than waiting.
Bill
They're flinging green guacamole grease all over the lower half of the engine compartment. Eventually there won't be any grease left and something is going to happen to the CV joints. I plan on running them until that certain something happens and then I'll replace both drive shafts. What are the signs to watch out for that'll indicate the CV joints are approaching toast?
If you have grease still coming out why not replace the boots and refill with grease?
Then you will have no problems with the CV joints and half shafts.
Fix them now is going to be A LOT cheaper than waiting.
Bill
If you want to go the middle road route Not as good as Bill's answer), might try one of the split boot repair kits like this one at AZ:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...23d8004a064.jsp
Here's the Larry Carly story:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...23d8004a064.jsp
Here's the Larry Carly story:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm
Those split boots are a joke. I used one of those on a Chrysler K-car years ago and it didn't last very long. I ended up replacing both shafts with the boot already installed.
Get new axles. It'll cost less (at a repair shop) and be easier than fussing with new boots. Plus, if you let them go like that, they'll load up with dirt and moisture and be guaranteed to fail later on.
They will get really noisy before they fail so you have some time to save up the money to get good quality replacements. If you are asking questions about this I would take it that you should not attempt the job yourself. If you hire the job out ask about the source of the replacement shafts. Do not accept a no name white box something or other.
I would just get two new halfshaft assemblies. Two A1 Cardone Select halfshafts, including shipping is $115 shipped after a coupon. No core charge either.
While two new halfshafts are considerably more expensive than a boot job, there's a lifetime warranty on the part.
While two new halfshafts are considerably more expensive than a boot job, there's a lifetime warranty on the part.
I re-booted a 1/2 shaft and got another 100k out of it.
Once you have noticed the problem dirt has gotten in and started its path to destruction. Certainly new CV boots will slow things down but new CV joints or assemblies are the only real cure.
get new halfshafts. i refuse to mess around with the boots. the split boots are an absolute joke and in every experience ive had with them they leak. i can get halfshafts with a lifetime warranty cheaper than replacing the boots.
2 weeks to a month is all you should get out of a dry C/V.
Maybe less. Noise is the first indication, but it can lock up or break on you at any time.
Rebuilt axles are great - you get everything new for reasonable cost.
Maybe less. Noise is the first indication, but it can lock up or break on you at any time.
Rebuilt axles are great - you get everything new for reasonable cost.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
If you have grease still coming out why not replace the boots and refill with grease?
Hi Bill, I figure if they're slinging grease then they're halfway gone anyway.
Originally Posted By: BarkerMan
If you are asking questions about this I would take it that you should not attempt the job yourself.
I'm asking questions because this is my first front wheel drive car; that doesn't mean I don't know how to turn my own wrenches!
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Noise is the first indication, but it can lock up or break on you at any time.
One thing I didn't rule in was the possibility of them breaking.
Hopefully I'll get some kind of warning sign before that happens.
Thanks guys for all the replies.
If you have grease still coming out why not replace the boots and refill with grease?
Hi Bill, I figure if they're slinging grease then they're halfway gone anyway.
Originally Posted By: BarkerMan
If you are asking questions about this I would take it that you should not attempt the job yourself.
I'm asking questions because this is my first front wheel drive car; that doesn't mean I don't know how to turn my own wrenches!
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Noise is the first indication, but it can lock up or break on you at any time.
One thing I didn't rule in was the possibility of them breaking.
Hopefully I'll get some kind of warning sign before that happens.
Thanks guys for all the replies.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Once you have noticed the problem dirt has gotten in and started its path to destruction. Certainly new CV boots will slow things down but new CV joints or assemblies are the only real cure.
+1
Once you have noticed the problem dirt has gotten in and started its path to destruction. Certainly new CV boots will slow things down but new CV joints or assemblies are the only real cure.
+1
I (again) guess I must be lucky.
On my 86 Jetta I had replaced the boots quite a few times only after noticing that the boots had been split during an oil change.
Replaced the boots, added grease if it needed it and the FACTORY CV joints are still on the car @ 325k miles.
If you catch it early and clean them up, NO REASON to declare them dead IMO.
Bill
On my 86 Jetta I had replaced the boots quite a few times only after noticing that the boots had been split during an oil change.
Replaced the boots, added grease if it needed it and the FACTORY CV joints are still on the car @ 325k miles.
If you catch it early and clean them up, NO REASON to declare them dead IMO.
Bill
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Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I (again) guess I must be lucky.
On my 86 Jetta I had replaced the boots quite a few times only after noticing that the boots had been split during an oil change.
Replaced the boots, added grease if it needed it and the FACTORY CV joints are still on the car @ 325k miles.
If you catch it early and clean them up, NO REASON to declare them dead IMO.
(off-topic)
Is this the same 300+K car that was Havoline-exclusive? What are you Using in it now... Havoline DS?
I (again) guess I must be lucky.
On my 86 Jetta I had replaced the boots quite a few times only after noticing that the boots had been split during an oil change.
Replaced the boots, added grease if it needed it and the FACTORY CV joints are still on the car @ 325k miles.
If you catch it early and clean them up, NO REASON to declare them dead IMO.
(off-topic)
Is this the same 300+K car that was Havoline-exclusive? What are you Using in it now... Havoline DS?
I'd pull and regrease ASAP and install new OEM boots. Don't wait untill the joint is trashed. Most places want an "usable" joint as tradein on a rebuilt axe or the exchange charge is more.
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