Cutting sheetrock

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supton

supton

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It seems those oscillating saws have gotten quite popular. Would they work good for cutting sheetrock that is already on a wall? I've been cutting various test holes with a utility knife, and it's kinda tedious. Most of the walls have insulation behind them, so punching a saw through is liable to hit things.

Or would this be a good time to buy a sawzall instead? I've read to angle the saw so that it just penetrates the sheetrock; plus I could use that when I go remove studs and whatnot. Seems like the oscillating saw would be good for "fine" work whereas the sawzall is good for "rough" cutting.

I'd buy both but I'm not sure I need a lot of tools sitting in my basement; and I can see myself using this for the next several months (I'm not particularly fast when it comes to home projects).

Thanks.
 
I have a hand saw that works great for rough cutting sheetrock.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/09489386?src=pla&008=-99&007=Search&pcrid=15557577904&006=15557577904&005=21882504424&004=4409695744&002=2167139&mkwid=sJXegN7a0%7Cdc&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_sJXegN7a0_PLA__15557577904_c_S&026=-99&025=c

You'll have to copy and paste the link, sorry. Cheap and it works very well. I hold a shop vac next to it when I use it. A sawzall can sometimes break the sheetrock.
 
Utility knife would be my choice because you can set depth and go slow. I get that its tedious, but are you using some sort of a t-square to guide the cuts?

I fail to see how the sawzall is different from randomly punching a utility saw in there.

Not sure if there is a paper barrier on the insulation, but Id worry about breaking that.

Can you use a hole saw on a drill to start roughly the right width of the hole and then square it out from there? This way you have control to open the hole, and then can see whats going on behind when using whatever saw.
 
Use a drywall saw. Sheetrock cuts easily you don't need power tools. Just cut deep enough to break through the rock.

Besides, you might find a wire or a pipe in the wall after you start cutting.
 
We used a dremel with the sheet rock bit for all the outlet and switch holes. I don't remember if we could set the depth to 3/4" or less though. Maybe just snap the bit off to the right depth. You'll need a guide to go straight.
 
Oh, I didn't think of a pilot hole with a drill--duh. Might do that instead with the dry wall saw. Thanks.

One wall has a plastic vapor barior. In spots, not the whole wall. Some of the insulation still has its paper backing, but depending upon how much moisture has sat on it the paper backing is long gone. A the moment I don't want to disturb too much of it, as it's still pretty cold out. I'm still trying to scope out the wall and figure out what my next move is.
 
Oscillating tools work great. You can cut drywall right on the center of a stud. They are not super fast at cutting, but you have a lot of control. They have come in very handy for odds and ends that another tool can't do. I would get one and try it with the half circular saw blade. You can always take it back. I have a variable speed Rockwell.
 
The drywall bit actually cuts sideways as well.
I'm thinking you'll want to cut from stud centre to stud centre anyways, to remove insulation and see what's up.
 
There's lots going on. Where it's balloon construction I *think* moisture from the basement can wick up the wall cavity; that is why, despite half-way decent sheet rock any time I open a wall I find the house siding moist (or frosted over). The siding actually stays dry if I leave the sheet rock disturbed. I think what I should do first is seal the cavities in the basement first (low expansion foam?) and then rip into the wall.
 
Yeah the utility knife is tedious but how much do you really need to do?

You outline a square area you want to remove, then cut a big X in the square and start breaking it out.

I think on this Old house they use the vibrating knife/saw. I've never tried it so maybe it works better, if you already have one.

Sheet rock is cheap, and it's sometimes easier to mud and patch one big area than multiple smaller ones. You'll have to prime and paint the larger area but otherwise there's not much drawback to doing one large area to see what's up.
 
Good question. I think one whole room (20x20?) by the time I'm done. Right now I'm just trying to keep it small, but good point about it being preferable to go stud to stud.
 
Dust is the main problem doing anything with drywall.

Sawing creates dust. When you mud, sanding creates dust. Especially bad in the winter as you can't air out the house as easily.

I found this useful item, a big sponge with a kind of fur or velvet facing on two sides. One side is shorter nap and the other side has a longer nap. It is used to smooth the mud while wet instead of waiting til it's dry and sanding. It can work pretty well but the results are not quite as good as sanding. It's perfectly ok if you plan on a stucco or rough finish, of course.
 
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