Crushed gaskets.

I think this is an example of your experience differing from established best practices.
My experience is that simple flat metal washers don't leak and last a very long time, as long as the washer, the plug, and the threaded opening are well made and in good condition. Of course leakage results if any of those is mangled, or the plug isn't reasonably tightened. Perhaps you can explain a reason " established best practice" is now to replace the washer (=gasket=seal, or whatever we choose to call it) every time that doesn't have to do with 1) compensating for damage or abuse, 2) compensating for cheaply made parts, 3) non-ferrous pans, or 4) selling parts.

The blue plastic(?)-coated aluminum Toyota plug washers function well, too. I bought a small bag of spares just in case, but haven't needed any yet. The way the Toyota washer tends to stick firmly in place on the pan is more convenient than a loose washer. I don't know how long each one can last, but the few I have will obviously outlast the car.
 
My experience is that simple flat metal washers don't leak and last a very long time, as long as the washer, the plug, and the threaded opening are well made and in good condition. Of course leakage results if any of those is mangled, or the plug isn't reasonably tightened. Perhaps you can explain a reason " established best practice" is now to replace the washer (=gasket=seal, or whatever we choose to call it) every time that doesn't have to do with 1) compensating for damage or abuse, 2) compensating for cheaply made parts, 3) non-ferrous pans, or 4) selling parts.

The blue plastic(?)-coated aluminum Toyota plug washers function well, too. I bought a small bag of spares just in case, but haven't needed any yet. The way the Toyota washer tends to stick firmly in place on the pan is more convenient than a loose washer. I don't know how long each one can last, but the few I have will obviously outlast the car.
Most of these drain plug gaskets are not flat washers. They are "crush" washers that are intended to deform when the fastener is tightened. When these are reused multiple times, eventually they will flatten to a point where seepage begins to occur.
 
Same here! If not somehow abused, drain plug washers were expected to last the life of the engine until recently. What a silly innovation!
I reuse drain plug gaskets somewhat. But no gasket will last the lifetime of an engine unless the lifetime is pretty short.
You were smart to buy a bag of warshers for your Toyota.
I have seen some pretty mangled and leaky drain plug warshers. And stained garage floors.
A quick replacement and all's good!
 
Most of these drain plug gaskets are not flat washers. They are "crush" washers that are intended to deform when the fastener is tightened. When these are reused multiple times, eventually they will flatten to a point where seepage begins to occur.

Well - the thing they do is "strain harden" because they start off as soft, annealed metal with few point defects. The problem is that every time they get crushed, the ability to deform is reduced. I remember seeing this demonstration in my Engineering 45 (Properties of Material) class. This one very English materials science professor was famous (some say notorious) for this specific demo. He'd bring out an annealed copper rod and usually ask a smaller female student to bend it, which was pretty easy because it started off soft. Then he'd look for a guy in class who looked to be someone who worked out, and asked him to straighten out the rod. The guy would then try as hard as he could but it wouldn't be able to bend it back because it had work hardened where the crystal structure had deformed and it was considerably stronger than when it was straight.

I've heard of some discussion of annealing an old copper gasket to reuse it. Seems like it would be easier to just get a new one.

This kind of explains it even though it seems to have come from the University of Washington. This is also what happens with cold forging of metals. It doesn't make it stronger, but it makes it far harder to deform later on.

Copper has a cubic crystal structure (Face Centered Cubic) that gives it high ductility. Bending the copper causes work hardening (or strain hardening) because working or straining the copper introduces defects, known as dislocations, into the structure. These defects interfere with further deformation, making the copper harder and stronger, thus making it more difficult to bend further. Copper tubing is used here because it is readily available in hardware stores. Caution must be taken on bending, however, as it can crimp if bent too far too fast. Thus the instruction to bend it slowly. After bending, the materials is harder and thus more difficult to re-bend it to its original condition. The best effect is to have a person of average physical condition do the bending, then ask an obviously strong person to un-bend the copper (this person will typically not be able to get the copper back to its original shape).​

Not sure about fiber though. I've used those but were somewhat skeptical about how well they sealed.
 
Like others, I re-use oil drain plug gaskets (solid copper or aluminum) a few times before replacing, never had an issue. Very cheap bought by the dozen. Some models have an oil drain plug with rubber seal that is obviously designed for re-use with proper torque. Actual crusshie warshyers (hollow spaces inside, such as my auto trans drain plug) are one-time use... although in an emergency you might be able to reuse those with a *little* extra torque. But I would avoid doing that when possible.
 
I have a few samples of sintered brass and diamond cutting cloth. They were originally belts used to true out large machine shafts.
If they hit the work crookedly they'd tear and had to be replaced. My friend would take the discarded pieces from the trash.

For solid washers I remove any ridging incurred during tightening by rubbing the old one for a few seconds. It's doubly therapeutic as it saves money and surprise trips to stores which commonly have none.
My Volvo drain plugs have a shoulder which deforms the gasket into the female. After many grind downs I have yet to see even the thinnest aluminum gaskets fail. I assumed they'd fatigue....and maybe with time they would.

I don't reuse real crush washers like Subaru's (or those Nissan ones shown above). When a friend once said, "Just turn it over", I was deeply disheartened.

More than once I've seen the "GM neoprene insert" gaskets shredded beyond belief. Most last a long time but I'd never waste my time or risk engine damage reusing a shredded one.

My well spoken Aunt from the West says, "worsh" for wash and washer is "worsher".
 
Every vehicle that comes through the shop for an oil change that has a metal gasket on the drain plug gets replaced
I buy a ton of drain plugs and washers. All metal crush washers get replaced every time.
We generally throw the drain plugs in a plastic container and remove and replace the old gaskets
when time allows. The "refurbished" drain plugs are then re-used.
For those in the installer or DIFM market, drain plug washers are another item that are becoming
hard to find.
I'll try and remember to take a few pics of some of the "re-used" gaskets we see come through.
 
Same here! If not somehow abused, drain plug washers were expected to last the life of the engine until recently. What a silly innovation!
I’ve never seen lifetime drain plug gaskets but maybe that’s just me. Both my Honda and my Toyota dealerships give you a new one with each filter you purchase.
 
Well - the thing they do is "strain harden" because they start off as soft, annealed metal with few point defects. The problem is that every time they get crushed, the ability to deform is reduced. I remember seeing this demonstration in my Engineering 45 (Properties of Material) class. This one very English materials science professor was famous (some say notorious) for this specific demo. He'd bring out an annealed copper rod and usually ask a smaller female student to bend it, which was pretty easy because it started off soft. Then he'd look for a guy in class who looked to be someone who worked out, and asked him to straighten out the rod. The guy would then try as hard as he could but it wouldn't be able to bend it back because it had work hardened where the crystal structure had deformed and it was considerably stronger than when it was straight.

I've heard of some discussion of annealing an old copper gasket to reuse it. Seems like it would be easier to just get a new one.

This kind of explains it even though it seems to have come from the University of Washington. This is also what happens with cold forging of metals. It doesn't make it stronger, but it makes it far harder to deform later on.

Copper has a cubic crystal structure (Face Centered Cubic) that gives it high ductility. Bending the copper causes work hardening (or strain hardening) because working or straining the copper introduces defects, known as dislocations, into the structure. These defects interfere with further deformation, making the copper harder and stronger, thus making it more difficult to bend further. Copper tubing is used here because it is readily available in hardware stores. Caution must be taken on bending, however, as it can crimp if bent too far too fast. Thus the instruction to bend it slowly. After bending, the materials is harder and thus more difficult to re-bend it to its original condition. The best effect is to have a person of average physical condition do the bending, then ask an obviously strong person to un-bend the copper (this person will typically not be able to get the copper back to its original shape).​

Not sure about fiber though. I've used those but were somewhat skeptical about how well they sealed.

Its easy to post about replacing a gasket/washer every OC when they only cost 10-25 cents, but last time I checked about 3 years ago, local Porsche dealer wanted $5 for a drain plug gasket (just a simple washer). And ppl pay it. At that price, yall still want to replace a gasket each OC? Not me. LOL
 
Its easy to post about replacing a gasket/washer every OC when they only cost 10-25 cents, but last time I checked about 3 years ago, local Porsche dealer wanted $5 for a drain plug gasket (just a simple washer). And ppl pay it. At that price, yall still want to replace a gasket each OC? Not me. LOL
If you can't afford the maintenance on a Porsche, you can't afford a Porsche.
 
Crush washers are disposable, their purpose is to protect the threads; their sealing capabilities is an added benefit.
 
Its easy to post about replacing a gasket/washer every OC when they only cost 10-25 cents, but last time I checked about 3 years ago, local Porsche dealer wanted $5 for a drain plug gasket (just a simple washer). And ppl pay it. At that price, yall still want to replace a gasket each OC? Not me. LOL

Why would anyone pay $5 for OEM? I only use OEM if it's included with an oil filter, I'm in a hurry and can't find anything else, or OEM is reasonably priced (like Honda aluminum). I've bought German made copper drain gaskets really cheap.

I'm not terribly particular. On my Subaru, I've used Subaru OEM when I got them with a case of filters, but I now use unbranded copper. For HondaAcura, their OEM aluminum ones are so cheap that I figure why bother unless I use something else in a pinch. I've used all sorts of things, including M10 aluminum one at a Honda dealer meant for a brake line to use on a Toyota. I tried one of those funky Nissan OEM ones once for my parents' car, but got a bag of generic M12 copper much cheaper.
 
Its easy to post about replacing a gasket/washer every OC when they only cost 10-25 cents, but last time I checked about 3 years ago, local Porsche dealer wanted $5 for a drain plug gasket (just a simple washer). And ppl pay it. At that price, yall still want to replace a gasket each OC? Not me. LOL
Anyone paying that deserves ridicule.
 
Most of these drain plug gaskets are not flat washers. They are "crush" washers that are intended to deform when the fastener is tightened. When these are reused multiple times, eventually they will flatten to a point where seepage begins to occur.
And that's when it's a PITA to remove off from the Drain Plug.
 
Way back when,, Toyota forklifts engine oil drain plugs would leak even with a new gasket. I the world of wanting no going back out to the clients location to reseal the plug I started using this [ It works ! ] on every vehicle that I did something with a drain plug, Forklifts, class 8 vehicles and cars and trucks. A little is all that is needed.
 
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