Crown Vic P7B...a good buy?

[Fordiesel69]

I have (4) 2008 models now, all detective models. (1) 1999, and (1) 2000 model.

On anything that is 2005 and newer, you need to make sure the steering shaft stays lubed and free. When it starts to get stiff, you will not feel it in the interior. It will pull the lower part of the steering column apart, and you will have a disconnect between the steering and the wheels. You will DIE. I am not joking in any way, shape, or form.

I got gas, and mine disconnected in the parking lot. To think I was just traveling over 70MPH moments before.

See this link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2013/RCRIT-13V385-9944.pdf

 

[Fattylocks]

I have (4) 2008 models now, all detective models. (1) 1999, and (1) 2000 model.

On anything that is 2005 and newer, you need to make sure the steering shaft stays lubed and free. When it starts to get stiff, you will not feel it in the interior. It will pull the lower part of the steering column apart, and you will have a disconnect between the steering and the wheels. You will DIE. I am not joking in any way, shape, or form.

I got gas, and mine disconnected in the parking lot. To think I was just traveling over 70MPH moments before.

See this link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2013/RCRIT-13V385-9944.pdf

Steering shaft defect should have been covered already by a Ford recall. Dealer can run the VIN to see if it's been done.

 

[Fordiesel69]

The fix does not correct the defect. It just prolongs it from happening.

 

[Ws6]

Friday, new shocks and struts. I found some NOS police interceptor shocks/struts FoMoCo. As you can see, I've already updated the headlights, and installed a bluetooth drop-in radio with mic for cell phone/Pandora/etc. as well as upgrading the spotlight to a UNITY LED conversion unit.

 

[Ws6]

I have (4) 2008 models now, all detective models. (1) 1999, and (1) 2000 model.

On anything that is 2005 and newer, you need to make sure the steering shaft stays lubed and free. When it starts to get stiff, you will not feel it in the interior. It will pull the lower part of the steering column apart, and you will have a disconnect between the steering and the wheels. You will DIE. I am not joking in any way, shape, or form.

I got gas, and mine disconnected in the parking lot. To think I was just traveling over 70MPH moments before.

See this link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2013/RCRIT-13V385-9944.pdf

That's just the joy of owning a Ford. They've always been horribly engineered death machines. I'm good with it.

 

[Ws6]

This car is exceedingly slow, but with 128K miles on the clock, bone stock, it DOES out-perform the 2011 test data from the Michigan State Police.

 

[Ws6]

More projects. I've taken the rear doors apart and installed the correct rods so the locks and inner handles work, as well as replaced seat track bolts that the PD snapped trying to remove the seats. That was more involved.



The absolute beastly LED headlights I installed make this thing amazing for driving at night, which is 90% of my use. Best headlights I've ever had, bar none.

 

[Ws6]

I've slowly gone through all of the things needed to restore the vehicle to proper function. I installed the rods and linkages to get the rear two doors and locks operating ($100), and fixed the seat track attachment ($50), installed new police rated OEM shocks/struts/sway bar end links ($1,200 installed and sourced), changed the rear diff fluid ($90) (Trans Fluid was changed 13K miles ago, per service records, and backed by visual inspection of fluid), Marauder OEM air filter, ceramic tint all around ($400+ now replacing the back glass because they messed up the heating element removing the 14 year old tint, and having THAT re-tinted, another $700 out of pocket), glass protection film $600) (has already stopped a ton of impacts from breaking the windscreen), installed a radio with a mic for "blue tooth" capabilities (the OEM sound system is acceptable, $120), converted the halogen to an LED Unity spot light module ($130), installed LED headlights ($250), refinished the rims ($20). All in all, the car cost me $5K, and I've sunk another $3500ish into it, and still need to have the grinding/thumping sound under braking addressed (noone can find it, myself, 2 dealers, my dad, all stumped), and get it sprayed/undercoated ($250).

That said, it's extremely clean, in amazing shape, and proves my point about cheap people buying used cars: They WILL be poorly maintained (this was professionally maintained by the PD, and has almost 30 service records at proper intervals), and you can typically double your purchase price when you consider what it will take to restore it to a proper condition.

 

[supton]

I wonder if the thump is from loose brake pads that have play in the caliper bracket? I'm guessing this has rear disc not drum? not sure what would do grinding; early morning rust can, but then it's gone. I wonder if pads and rotors might do something.

9-10 second 0-60, slow but I'm not sure I've had much that would keep up. Sounds like you are having fun with it.

 

[CDX825]

Whats the run down on the headlight upgrade?