Crown Vic P7B...a good buy?

[lucky7901]

Should you go that route, ADTR offers some really nice suspension upgrades for the Whale Panthers. A friend has their coilovers, control arms, and watts link on his and the handling is outstanding. He also used that setup on a 70 F-100 on a Vic frame swap.

The rear factory control arms are flimsy and nearly every panther car has worn upper right control arms due to all the torque going to the passenger side wheel.

A while back I bought on ebay new old stock the rare upper control arms that were used on the protection series and limo Lincoln Town Cars. They're all aluminum and more solid made by Ford.

The lower arms are Che aftermarket control arms and so far I have been pleased.


https://www.cheperformance.com/collections/crown-victoria-and-mercury-marauder-parts/products/che1u

 

[lucky7901]

The best ones to get are the detective ones that didn't have holes drilled in the roof or trunklid for antennae.

Commonish issues with those would be the cooling fan and module, maybe some diff issues if they liked to to e-brake u-turns. That's about the best version of the 4R70/75 made and technically had the J-mod from the factory.

I miss selling parts for those. I think the Sheriff's dept here still has a few.

I believe the 2011 had the 4r75E. I would still drop the valve body and replace all drop in valves with Sonnax valves, install a new Superior Tuff plate and a new Motorcraft FT105 Filter.

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2397-main-pressure-regulator-valve

https://superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k092/

 

[Ws6]

Well, I am about to crest 150K miles by my next oil change, and have really enjoyed the car. I just finished breaking in 3.73 gears and am curious to see what it runs in the 1/4 next week!

 

[DCDG]

I contemplate it, but RWD with my winters... eh... anything is doable, with enough patience & speed.

Looks like a nice find. Good luck.

4wd and awd is a convenience that can be lived without. lol I swore I needed it until I just didn’t care about it.

 

[Ws6]

4wd and awd is a convenience that can be lived without. lol I swore I needed it until I just didn’t care about it.

I still value it, as it does things rwd simply never will. Winter driving, for one. I had a bad time in the vic. My awd cars would have handled the things that upset it on studded Hak 10s on decent all seasons, lol

 

[OX1]

Well, I am about to crest 150K miles by my next oil change, and have really enjoyed the car. I just finished breaking in 3.73 gears and am curious to see what it runs in the 1/4 next week!

I inherited an 09 GM with only 38k on it a bout a year and a half ago.
Makes a great winter beater, keeping all my other "nice' stuff out of
the brine. That stuff is way more corrosive that the old "salt" they used to put down.
(just my casual observation).

I've thought of "gears", but I like the ultra low RPM of 1900 @ 85. I also like driving it around town
much more than I thought. You get in ANYTHING else and you realize ride quality is not as good.
Steady state cornering with just an H rated stock all season is crazy, considering overall "mush' suspension.
Ford did a decent amount of work on susp dynamics, I guess.

Mine does have timing chain rattle "already", on cold start, after sitting 3-4 days.
Otherwise, have had no issues so far. I like the fact you can find these with 50K or less miles, many times
garage kept driven by "old" careful/slow drivers. Can get a mint one for $8K or less.
Very easy to upkeep being old school body on frame, rear wheel drive< minimal electronics comapred
to new cars,

Just did upgraded stereo with double din head, bluetooth, replace stock speakers, small sub (that fits next
to spare, minimal trunk space loss), and back up camera. Also, did aftermarket heated seat kits. those
were really the only thing I was missing over newer cars.

 

[OX1]

I still value it, as it does things rwd simply never will. Winter driving, for one. I had a bad time in the vic. My awd cars would have handled the things that upset it on studded Hak 10s on decent all seasons, lol

No doubt, even aggressive take off in the rain with open diff, just gets you tire spin.
But I retire in 2 months. Wife has an AWD escape and I don't really need to go out in
heavy snow right after a storm. I plow my driveway, neighbors driveway and even my own street.
So once that is done GM is fine once on main roads that get plowed quick.

 

[Ws6]

No doubt, even aggressive take off in the rain with open diff, just gets you tire spin.
But I retire in 2 months. Wife has an AWD escape and I don't really need to go out in
heavy snow right after a storm. I plow my driveway, neighbors driveway and even my own street.
So once that is done GM is fine once on main roads that get plowed quick.

I require mobility 24/7/365. Otherwise I'd agree.

 

[Ws6]

I've slowly been modifying my 2011 CVPI for better performance. My goal has been the best bang for the buck.

Bone stock it ran a [email protected] with a 8.24 0-60 in 1131DA, which corrects to [email protected] at sea level. The 60' was 2.44

From there, I installed new coils, ngk4177 plugs gapped to 0.045", and a Marty e85 tune, shift firmness "7".

It then ran [email protected] with a 0-60 of 7.19 in a DA of -648, which corrects to [email protected] at sealevel. The 60' was 2.39.

I then had the traclok rebuilt. Fun fact, it was in great shape and OEM used carbon fiber clutches. I went with frpp organic. It functioned and functions fine. The 3.27s were replaced with 3.73s from FRPP.

It ran a [email protected] in a DA of 659ft with a 0-60 of 6.82, which corrects to [email protected] at sealevel. The 60' was 2.31.

All times on the same pavement using a Dragy. 0-60 INCLUDES the 1ft rollout.

I cut 0.85 seconds off the 1/4 mile, added 4mph to trap speed, and reduced 0-60 by over 1.4 seconds.

Tune and gears. Marauder drop in paper filter. Best bang for the buck mods possible imo for thus platform. Its a super cool daily thats built to last and easy to maintain.

 

[lucky7901]

I inherited an 09 GM with only 38k on it a bout a year and a half ago.
Makes a great winter beater, keeping all my other "nice' stuff out of
the brine. That stuff is way more corrosive that the old "salt" they used to put down.
(just my casual observation).

I've thought of "gears", but I like the ultra low RPM of 1900 @ 85. I also like driving it around town
much more than I thought. You get in ANYTHING else and you realize ride quality is not as good.
Steady state cornering with just an H rated stock all season is crazy, considering overall "mush' suspension.
Ford did a decent amount of work on susp dynamics, I guess.

Mine does have timing chain rattle "already", on cold start, after sitting 3-4 days.
Otherwise, have had no issues so far. I like the fact you can find these with 50K or less miles, many times
garage kept driven by "old" careful/slow drivers. Can get a mint one for $8K or less.
Very easy to upkeep being old school body on frame, rear wheel drive< minimal electronics comapred
to new cars,

Just did upgraded stereo with double din head, bluetooth, replace stock speakers, small sub (that fits next
to spare, minimal trunk space loss), and back up camera. Also, did aftermarket heated seat kits. those
were really the only thing I was missing over newer cars.

Don't worry about the cold start rattle. I have 2 of these vehicles and recently installed all new timing chains and sprockets. The cold start rattle is from the composite timing chain tensioners that are getting pumped up with oil upon engine start. It happens also after you change the oil.

Now that I have cast iron tensioners the rattle noise is gone even after an oil change because the cast iron tensioners have a ratcheting device that is built into the tensioner that keeps pressure on the chain guides at all times even with no oil pressure.

These engines are very reliable. I took apart my timing system at 400k miles and the guides still had a lot of material left on them.

 

[lucky7901]

I've slowly been modifying my 2011 CVPI for better performance. My goal has been the best bang for the buck.

Bone stock it ran a [email protected] with a 8.24 0-60 in 1131DA, which corrects to [email protected] at sea level. The 60' was 2.44

From there, I installed new coils, ngk4177 plugs gapped to 0.045", and a Marty e85 tune, shift firmness "7".

It then ran [email protected] with a 0-60 of 7.19 in a DA of -648, which corrects to [email protected] at sealevel. The 60' was 2.39.

I then had the traclok rebuilt. Fun fact, it was in great shape and OEM used carbon fiber clutches. I went with frpp organic. It functioned and functions fine. The 3.27s were replaced with 3.73s from FRPP.

It ran a [email protected] in a DA of 659ft with a 0-60 of 6.82, which corrects to [email protected] at sealevel. The 60' was 2.31.

All times on the same pavement using a Dragy. 0-60 INCLUDES the 1ft rollout.

I cut 0.85 seconds off the 1/4 mile, added 4mph to trap speed, and reduced 0-60 by over 1.4 seconds.

Tune and gears. Marauder drop in paper filter. Best bang for the buck mods possible imo for thus platform. Its a super cool daily thats built to last and easy to maintain.

View attachment 329523View attachment 329524View attachment 329525

Nice work. I decided to go all out. The only way to get real power from the ole 4.6 is Trickflow cylinder heads. My P71 is my forever car and I can do the labor myself so I'm looking at TF heads, L&M cams and long tube headers.

Aside from that 3.73 or 3.55 gears is the next best thing. I installed 3.55 Trac-Lok and boy is she fun to drive now.

 

[Fordiesel69]

In aviation the old saying "The only replacement for a DC-3 is another DC-3". This holds true for the panther series cars. Still worth owning when you find a rust free / low rust example.

 

[OX1]

Don't worry about the cold start rattle. I have 2 of these vehicles and recently installed all new timing chains and sprockets. The cold start rattle is from the composite timing chain tensioners that are getting pumped up with oil upon engine start. It happens also after you change the oil.

Now that I have cast iron tensioners the rattle noise is gone even after an oil change because the cast iron tensioners have a ratcheting device that is built into the tensioner that keeps pressure on the chain guides at all times even with no oil pressure.

These engines are very reliable. I took apart my timing system at 400k miles and the guides still had a lot of material left on them.

Yeah. A mechanic friend worked township public works on the cop cars, for over 15 years.
He told me the same thing. They will go forever that way. Just annoying with that low a mileage...

 

[OX1]

Nice work. I decided to go all out. The only way to get real power from the ole 4.6 is Trickflow cylinder heads. My P71 is my forever car and I can do the labor myself so I'm looking at TF heads, L&M cams and long tube headers.

Aside from that 3.73 or 3.55 gears is the next best thing. I installed 3.55 Trac-Lok and boy is she fun to drive now.

I was kind of thinking a real low pressure turbo kit. Something super small, like they use on the Ecoboosts. Maybe 100 HP increase tops. But I don't want another rig I have to use premium on......

 

[lucky7901]

I was kind of thinking a real low pressure turbo kit. Something super small, like they use on the Ecoboosts. Maybe 100 HP increase tops. But I don't want another rig I have to use premium on......

Yea, that's the other route guys take. I love turbo cars specifically turbo Buicks.

 

[Ws6]

I was kind of thinking a real low pressure turbo kit. Something super small, like they use on the Ecoboosts. Maybe 100 HP increase tops. But I don't want another rig I have to use premium on......

I avoid 93 by having it tuned for ethanol. Same price or cheaper than 87, mileage and cost per gallon accounted for, but 105 octane equivalent.

 

[Ws6]

Nice work. I decided to go all out. The only way to get real power from the ole 4.6 is Trickflow cylinder heads. My P71 is my forever car and I can do the labor myself so I'm looking at TF heads, L&M cams and long tube headers.

Aside from that 3.73 or 3.55 gears is the next best thing. I installed 3.55 Trac-Lok and boy is she fun to drive now.

Please keep me posted on actual whp and track performance!

 

[lucky7901]

Please keep me posted on actual whp and track performance!

Will definitely post. I plan to pocket port the heads and clean up the runners also. That will add more CFM.

Nothing is cheap for a 4.6 which is why guys go straight to forced induction or a different engine all together. When done though 2V TF heads can flow more then the 3V engine.

So far the parts and plan is:

Assembled Trickflow heads are $1,600 each
Stainless Works headers with cats are $1,500
Machine shop to look over TF heads $600
L&M camshafts $800
Ford GT Supercar roller followers (16) $200
Ford Racing Timing Kit $550
Ford Racing 4.6 intake manifold $200
Ford Racing 4.6 head change kit $160

 

[Ws6]

Will definitely post. I plan to pocket port the heads and clean up the runners also. That will add more CFM.

Nothing is cheap for a 4.6 which is why guys go straight to forced induction or a different engine all together. When done though 2V TF heads can flow more then the 3V engine.

So far the parts and plan is:

Assembled Trickflow heads are $1,600 each
Stainless Works headers with cats are $1,500
Machine shop to look over TF heads $600
L&M camshafts $800
Ford GT Supercar roller followers (16) $200
Ford Racing Timing Kit $550
Ford Racing 4.6 intake manifold $200
Ford Racing 4.6 head change kit $160

I think the painful part is that you'll make way less power than a junk yard ls1 with a cam.

 

[lucky7901]

I think the painful part is that you'll make way less power than a junk yard ls1 with a cam.

Probably haha. But honestly I don't even care. I have absolute love for the 4.6. Also, I don't race or anything like that.

If I was looking to race responsibly a 2020 GT500 or a 1987 Buick Grand National would be my choice. Wouldn't mind a Buick Regal with a Buick 455 stuffed into it either.