Probably not a good time to sell it just looking at gas prices either. That's another reason to sleep on it for a while. People are looking for cheap fuel efficient vehicles just to survive with right now.
Crossroads: Rebuild the toy, or sell it?
- Thread starter svtrit
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I think your plan of keeping it for a while and perhaps revisiting a rebuild down the road is a good one. The frame is solid, the foundation is there, no need to be hasty and sell the thing now...you’ll only regret it in the future, as you look back and think...I wish I still had that thing.
I have been in a similar position several times - I am sure we all have, and I regret all the ones I sold.
A new Wrangler is $50K so there is that.
A new Wrangler is $50K so there is that.
I'd keep it, and put an S&J engines reman engine in it. My TJ will eventually get a 4.7L stroker from them. Your Jeep would be hard to replace, the $50k+ new Wranglers may be more comfy to drive, but they do not have the simplicity and are not as fun to drive as anything produced before 2006. A YJ with a clean frame is a rare bird these days.
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I'd drive it until it runs out of oil psi. Just keep going thicker on the oil. Rebuild is only solution for excessive wear and I'd wait until there is no other option.
I'd live with a little startup rattle. So, use the 5w40, 5w50, 15w50, 10w60 oils and keep driving. Don't need any additives.
Empty oil filter syndrome? Make sure you use a filter with a silicone ADBV. Dry start rattle caused by filters is often blamed on oil brands/grades. And, use a good flowing filter, or oversized if there is room. I'd recommend the Napa Platinum or Wix XP.
A well worn out and tired 4 cyl/manual Jeep Wrangler.... what's not to like? There is more to a vehicle than compensating with excessive HP.
When its ready, either DIY rebuild or use a local machine shop.
I'd live with a little startup rattle. So, use the 5w40, 5w50, 15w50, 10w60 oils and keep driving. Don't need any additives.
Empty oil filter syndrome? Make sure you use a filter with a silicone ADBV. Dry start rattle caused by filters is often blamed on oil brands/grades. And, use a good flowing filter, or oversized if there is room. I'd recommend the Napa Platinum or Wix XP.
A well worn out and tired 4 cyl/manual Jeep Wrangler.... what's not to like? There is more to a vehicle than compensating with excessive HP.
When its ready, either DIY rebuild or use a local machine shop.
Likely stupid question, but based on your numbers I assume your looking at this via a verified oil gauge, like a mechanical or quality aftermarket gauge.
Can you drop the pan with the engine in? Maybe its just the pump, or maybe the intake is clogged?
Can you drop the pan with the engine in? Maybe its just the pump, or maybe the intake is clogged?
Yes, I installed a BOSCH mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify. I was wanting to get an Auto Meter gauge my dad has on the shelf, but we hadn't had a moment to meet up (he lives 5 hours away). BOSCH tends to build good stuff, so I have confidence in it. I don't get any oil lights, surprisingly.
The idea of installing mains by rolling them in is attractive, but I do think the cam bearings are something to consider as well. The pump being new makes me not to concerned it's the issue.
The little 2.5 has taken my jeep to places guys with some highly modified rigs go. I have video of a really tough spot I took it through a few weeks ago, and you can hear a lady yell "I was rooting for you!" It did better than my son's lifted and modified 4 Runner. It's all about tire PSI, throttle moderation, line choice, and gear selection. My Jeep has street tires and yet does extremely well everywhere but mud, which I avoid as much as I can.
I'll try a heavier oil next Spring. I'm driving it today to get the Stabil in the system, and give it a good wash before it takes a long winter nap.
Definitely option 2. I know you are tired, but then again, 1 month is not very long to get the old girl freshened up, especially since you enjoy driving her so much. Also as part of your decision making, consider how much you would miss her.
I don't know if yours is a YJ, but in 1995, the YJ got a fully galvanized frame and body so that makes them kind of desirable.
A friend of mine has a 95 Wrangler with the 4.0L and when his engine needed a rebuild, he rebuilt it himself but didn't do the greatest job and it had issues. He didn't want to mess with it anymore, so he bought a re-man long block and installed it. That is the route I would probably go if I was you.
A friend of mine has a 95 Wrangler with the 4.0L and when his engine needed a rebuild, he rebuilt it himself but didn't do the greatest job and it had issues. He didn't want to mess with it anymore, so he bought a re-man long block and installed it. That is the route I would probably go if I was you.
I'd keep it. There are all sorts of options for that engine.
4 month idle thread, I know.
If you sold it, you'd be "dumping" it.
You'll spend more time wading through a sea of kids looking for a $200 Jeep than you'd spend doing the necessary work.
As Q said above, the value will stay with this desirable vehicle.
What's funny is that I've (I'm no Jeep / Off-Road guy) always heard the Jeep 4 cylinder engines weren't desirable.
If you sold it, you'd be "dumping" it.
You'll spend more time wading through a sea of kids looking for a $200 Jeep than you'd spend doing the necessary work.
As Q said above, the value will stay with this desirable vehicle.
What's funny is that I've (I'm no Jeep / Off-Road guy) always heard the Jeep 4 cylinder engines weren't desirable.
100% keep it. I live in New England and Jeeps (or anything really) don't survive the salt. The fact that your Wrangler is in very good structural condition would make it very sought after up here. Since this thread is back from the dead I want to give my 2 cents.
Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to verify your pressure reading is correct. Electric oil pressure sending units and gauges get lazy over time.
If your oil pressure is indeed low and you seem capable...crawl under there, drain the oil and remove the oil pan. Make sure the oil pump pickup tube is in one piece and that the screen isn't clogged. Maybe even replace the oil pump with a high pressure unit. It won't fix your problem but might help you limp along.
And run 15W-50 or 20W-50. Then drive it until it becomes a problem (if it ever does) and worry about it later.
Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to verify your pressure reading is correct. Electric oil pressure sending units and gauges get lazy over time.
If your oil pressure is indeed low and you seem capable...crawl under there, drain the oil and remove the oil pan. Make sure the oil pump pickup tube is in one piece and that the screen isn't clogged. Maybe even replace the oil pump with a high pressure unit. It won't fix your problem but might help you limp along.
And run 15W-50 or 20W-50. Then drive it until it becomes a problem (if it ever does) and worry about it later.
The 4.0L 6-cylinder is more desirable from a power standpoint (especially if modding with larger tires), but the 2.5L 4-cylinder is still a good engine. It is the engine the AMC 4.0L was based on, and is known to be tough and have decent torque. The reason they aren't desirable especially in a Wrangler is lower power and not enough of a difference in fuel economy over the six. With that said they still work okay for a stock Wrangler especially with a manual.
Can’t read into how much joy you get from it to make the inevitable major engine repair time worth it.
This is purely an emotional decision as logic says dump it.
This is purely an emotional decision as logic says dump it.
