Need to do some more crimping, never had issues before but I can’t seem to get a proper crimp on these connectors. Could always use regular pliers and finish with solder but I’d rather do it right. These are the crimpers I have, what do I need??
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Crimpers?
- Thread starter buck91
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Are you properly placing the connector / wire into the crimpers?
There are two methods depending on the type of terminal you have. Yours are "open" terminals; in that case the open end gets crimped (the "bump" in the crimper works on the open side, the base or flat side of the crimper goes to the solid side). You may find it helpful to nudge the open sides a little towards closed before applying the crimp tool.
Also the wider section of the open terminal (the "connector" end) crimps the wire and the narrower section (the "wire" end) crimps the insulation on the wire. That may require two crimps with your tool (one on each section) rather than just one.
If you were using "barrel" type terminals, the "bump" goes to the solid side and the flat side goes to the area where the terminal joins with a seam. With this type you are generally cautioned to only crimp once at the wire portion.
There are two schools of thought regarding crimping alone vs crimp + solder. Soldering makes for a more secure connection that will also protect the copper wire from oxidation assuming you "tin" the wire first. You can also tin the wire but only crimp the connector, versus soldering again after your crimp.
The dissenting opinion centres around the point where the tinned portion of the wire meets the untinned portion (bare copper). If the wire bends either in installation or via vibration, it tends to break at this point. You can alleviate this problem by using a strain relief that extends beyond this point over the wire. Shrink Tubing is typically used; you can also double up on the shrink tubing (heat shrink once, add another section of shrink tubing, and shrink a second time) to make a stiffer strain relief.
There are two methods depending on the type of terminal you have. Yours are "open" terminals; in that case the open end gets crimped (the "bump" in the crimper works on the open side, the base or flat side of the crimper goes to the solid side). You may find it helpful to nudge the open sides a little towards closed before applying the crimp tool.
Also the wider section of the open terminal (the "connector" end) crimps the wire and the narrower section (the "wire" end) crimps the insulation on the wire. That may require two crimps with your tool (one on each section) rather than just one.
If you were using "barrel" type terminals, the "bump" goes to the solid side and the flat side goes to the area where the terminal joins with a seam. With this type you are generally cautioned to only crimp once at the wire portion.
There are two schools of thought regarding crimping alone vs crimp + solder. Soldering makes for a more secure connection that will also protect the copper wire from oxidation assuming you "tin" the wire first. You can also tin the wire but only crimp the connector, versus soldering again after your crimp.
The dissenting opinion centres around the point where the tinned portion of the wire meets the untinned portion (bare copper). If the wire bends either in installation or via vibration, it tends to break at this point. You can alleviate this problem by using a strain relief that extends beyond this point over the wire. Shrink Tubing is typically used; you can also double up on the shrink tubing (heat shrink once, add another section of shrink tubing, and shrink a second time) to make a stiffer strain relief.
Originally Posted by PimTac
Sears is dead. They just closed their large mall store here.
I agree, they seem to be too far gone. I think its just a matter of time.
Sears is dead. They just closed their large mall store here.
I agree, they seem to be too far gone. I think its just a matter of time.
I would use the middle GB crimpers ...place the bare wire between the two forward tabs, the insulated wire should align with the back tabs. Use the side cutter part to carefully fold the tab wings over the exposed wire but don't squeeze it yet. Once the two tabs are overlapping use the correct size crimp "Bump" on top of the folded over tabs and it will press them down onto the wire and into the rounded back of the crimper. To test the crimp give a slight tug on the connector it should not slide. Also be careful NOT to over-crimp and crush the copper wire strands inside. Doing so can cause a hot spot in the connection cause a future failure. Once the crimp is good do the same for the insulation and use the far right pliers for that. I would also place shrink tubing over the wire before crimping and shrink it afterward for both insulation and strain relief.
Not sure I like that connector. I would use a pliers and finish with solder.
I use only Ancor connectors in my boat. They sell some that are double crimp. But require an expensive crimper.
I use only Ancor connectors in my boat. They sell some that are double crimp. But require an expensive crimper.
For a proper crimp, it seems the best choice would be the proper tool, in this case an open barrel crimp tool. You can buy the pliar type or the ratchet type and they vary in price from about $15 (Harbor Freight) to $200 (Thomas&Betts,etc.)
Whoa ....whats with the giant video url?
You might be able to hack it together with your tools and some solder also. Maybe practice on some.
Whoa ....whats with the giant video url?
You might be able to hack it together with your tools and some solder also. Maybe practice on some.
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I picked this up for under $30 and its fine for what I do.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Non-in...ywords=iwiss+crimping+tool+kit&psc=1
These make it work great with heat shrink connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Die-A1-Shrink-Connectors-22-18/dp/B06XTB1F4T
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Non-in...ywords=iwiss+crimping+tool+kit&psc=1
These make it work great with heat shrink connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Die-A1-Shrink-Connectors-22-18/dp/B06XTB1F4T
Originally Posted by Trav
I picked this up for under $30 and its fine for what I do.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Non-in...ywords=iwiss+crimping+tool+kit&psc=1
These make it work great with heat shrink connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Die-A1-Shrink-Connectors-22-18/dp/B06XTB1F4T
I actually just ordered this one off amazon ( Voilamart Crimping Tool Kit Terminal Ratchet Plier Crimper 5 Interchangeable Die Sets Insulated Non-insulated Cable Wire Hand Tool All in One Pack with Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVH8JNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0PZHBb2J8QG56 ). Hopefully that’ll do well.
Which HF crimper is for open barrels? They all closely resemble the ones I have.
I picked this up for under $30 and its fine for what I do.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Non-in...ywords=iwiss+crimping+tool+kit&psc=1
These make it work great with heat shrink connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Die-A1-Shrink-Connectors-22-18/dp/B06XTB1F4T
I actually just ordered this one off amazon ( Voilamart Crimping Tool Kit Terminal Ratchet Plier Crimper 5 Interchangeable Die Sets Insulated Non-insulated Cable Wire Hand Tool All in One Pack with Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVH8JNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0PZHBb2J8QG56 ). Hopefully that’ll do well.
Which HF crimper is for open barrels? They all closely resemble the ones I have.
The die A03B should be the one you need. Same tool different branding and color.
Those take 56 Series Terminal Crimpers. Delphi (Formally Packard Electric) makes the best crimpers for 56 series terminals hands down!!!
Delphi 6285847 HERE & HERE
This set will work for a hobbyist, These are branded Delphi but are NOT the genuine article Packard tool......HERE
Delphi 12085271, These are 5-cavity 56 series crimpers, The professional equivalent to the hobbyist set above......HERE
I have the 6285847 & 12085271 pairs, I use the 6285847's the most, Your probably better off with the cheaper one above! Not to discount what Trav posted.....I've never used changeable die style before, I already have a small fortune in individual dedicated pairs of crimpers.
Delphi 6285847 HERE & HERE
This set will work for a hobbyist, These are branded Delphi but are NOT the genuine article Packard tool......HERE
Delphi 12085271, These are 5-cavity 56 series crimpers, The professional equivalent to the hobbyist set above......HERE
I have the 6285847 & 12085271 pairs, I use the 6285847's the most, Your probably better off with the cheaper one above! Not to discount what Trav posted.....I've never used changeable die style before, I already have a small fortune in individual dedicated pairs of crimpers.
Great info everyone! I never knew there was such diversity in crimping tools out there... And so the rabbit hole begins. I already have the HF tool with the changable dies, but for the cost and the shipping time I'll get the other one, too. Test it out on this project and go from there. Thank you for all the insight.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Those take 56 Series Terminal Crimpers. Delphi (Formally Packard Electric) makes the best crimpers for 56 series terminals hands down!!!
Delphi 6285847 HERE & HERE
This set will work for a hobbyist, These are branded Delphi but are NOT the genuine article Packard tool......HERE
Delphi 12085271, These are 5-cavity 56 series crimpers, The professional equivalent to the hobbyist set above......HERE
I have the 6285847 & 12085271 pairs, I use the 6285847's the most, Your probably better off with the cheaper one above! Not to discount what Trav posted.....I've never used changeable die style before, I already have a small fortune in individual dedicated pairs of crimpers.
The pro tools are definitely nice, the one I posted to is decent DIY quality and if you are doing more than one or two types of terminals they get the job done but I do so little with them its not worth buying any better.
I do have ones from Klein and knipex that work well so I am not without some quality stuff to work with if I need it.
Those take 56 Series Terminal Crimpers. Delphi (Formally Packard Electric) makes the best crimpers for 56 series terminals hands down!!!
Delphi 6285847 HERE & HERE
This set will work for a hobbyist, These are branded Delphi but are NOT the genuine article Packard tool......HERE
Delphi 12085271, These are 5-cavity 56 series crimpers, The professional equivalent to the hobbyist set above......HERE
I have the 6285847 & 12085271 pairs, I use the 6285847's the most, Your probably better off with the cheaper one above! Not to discount what Trav posted.....I've never used changeable die style before, I already have a small fortune in individual dedicated pairs of crimpers.
The pro tools are definitely nice, the one I posted to is decent DIY quality and if you are doing more than one or two types of terminals they get the job done but I do so little with them its not worth buying any better.
I do have ones from Klein and knipex that work well so I am not without some quality stuff to work with if I need it.
I purchased a complete American Autowire kit for my 64 Impala at the Syracuse Nationals.
I think the 2 crimper set direct from American Autowire might be the best setup for me.
Lots of crimps to make a some are the twin type.
Free shipping, no tax
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-510587
I think the 2 crimper set direct from American Autowire might be the best setup for me.
Lots of crimps to make a some are the twin type.
Free shipping, no tax
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-510587
These are one of the very few that will crimp heat shrink connectors properly and tight. I have them and they do a great job on them.
https://www.kctoolco.com/knipex-97-...vkJax3QIVRODICh1CgQUEEAQYASABEgL94vD_BwE
https://www.kctoolco.com/knipex-97-...vkJax3QIVRODICh1CgQUEEAQYASABEgL94vD_BwE
Originally Posted by kart17
I purchased a complete American Autowire kit for my 64 Impala at the Syracuse Nationals.
I think the 2 crimper set direct from American Autowire might be the best setup for me.
Lots of crimps to make a some are the twin type.
Free shipping, no tax
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-510587
Those will work very well, Everything on that car is Packard 56-Series!
The yellow pair is a replica of the Packard/Delphi 6285847 for the smaller gauge wires.
The blue pair is for the larger 56-series terminals for the alternator charge post, blower motor, & the main power junction at the Horn Relay.
Are you using their restoration wiring or the Classic Update kit? The reason I ask is.....The Ammeter on these cars is a Fire Hazard!
I purchased a complete American Autowire kit for my 64 Impala at the Syracuse Nationals.
I think the 2 crimper set direct from American Autowire might be the best setup for me.
Lots of crimps to make a some are the twin type.
Free shipping, no tax
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-510587
Those will work very well, Everything on that car is Packard 56-Series!
The yellow pair is a replica of the Packard/Delphi 6285847 for the smaller gauge wires.
The blue pair is for the larger 56-series terminals for the alternator charge post, blower motor, & the main power junction at the Horn Relay.
Are you using their restoration wiring or the Classic Update kit? The reason I ask is.....The Ammeter on these cars is a Fire Hazard!
Are these the ones that carry the full alternator amp load at the gauge that had wiring problems?
I have the Update, which is what I wanted from the start.
Very nice because of the option to run a HEI, gauges and a lot of other things.
Now all I need is time to do the work.............
Very nice because of the option to run a HEI, gauges and a lot of other things.
Now all I need is time to do the work.............
Originally Posted by Trav
Are these the ones that carry the full alternator amp load at the gauge that had wiring problems?
Not in the original design intent, It has/had a separate Shunt under the hood to carry the amp load. Of coarse the Shunt could become "open" & the current would pass through Ammeter unchecked with no circuit protection.
I'm unclear on whether or not it's the Ammeter itself that get hot & catches fire.....Or the old 14ga wires from the bulkhead to the Ammeter.
Starting in '65.....GM integrated the Shunt & Ammeter together, This is the style I think your referring too? I guess GM was moving the Shunt away from the underhood heat?
Are these the ones that carry the full alternator amp load at the gauge that had wiring problems?
Not in the original design intent, It has/had a separate Shunt under the hood to carry the amp load. Of coarse the Shunt could become "open" & the current would pass through Ammeter unchecked with no circuit protection.
I'm unclear on whether or not it's the Ammeter itself that get hot & catches fire.....Or the old 14ga wires from the bulkhead to the Ammeter.
Starting in '65.....GM integrated the Shunt & Ammeter together, This is the style I think your referring too? I guess GM was moving the Shunt away from the underhood heat?
Originally Posted by kart17
I have the Update, which is what I wanted from the start.
Very nice because of the option to run a HEI, gauges and a lot of other things.
Now all I need is time to do the work.............
Those are some NICE kits, The deck lid wiring they send cut hours off rewiring one of these!!!
I have the Update, which is what I wanted from the start.
Very nice because of the option to run a HEI, gauges and a lot of other things.
Now all I need is time to do the work.............
Those are some NICE kits, The deck lid wiring they send cut hours off rewiring one of these!!!
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