Need connector for classic vehicle

[weq92f]

Running 140A alt in my Classic vehicle. I connect that 6awg lead to a bus bar. From the bus bar I run 10awg to 40A relay that feeds my fan via 10AWG.

Recently diagnosed a dead FAN1 (I have 2 fans each wired independently the same way). Found melted connector at fan, melted inline fuse holder near bus bar and some melted wires surrounding the inline fuse holder. The fan draws 20A max. The connector at fan is standard SPAL connector with a matching pigtail I purchased somewhere Online years ago...took several seasons to do the burning and fail BTW.

I've rewired the fans now to include fusible link rather than fuse holders and have hardwired the offending fans connector (removed the melted connector). NOTE that I left FAN2 connected up with it's plastic SPAL connector and pigtail I wired up to it. That connector gets burn-you-hot-to-the-touch when that fan is active. These stock spal connectors are apparently junk.

I'm currently seeking to find a quality 12v connector that is rated at 30A (a true 30A) and accepts or is configured already with 10AWG wire. It must not cost me 40 dollars to wire in 2 connectors please, but I do want quality products that will not immediately evaporate into thin air.

I'm looking for a true 30A connector solution that I will crimp onto my existing system to simply connect 10AWG cables to the fans.

Please help.

BTW I've looked at these:

Metri: Found a few of these Online...expensive and requires special crimp tool...like 40 dollars for the parts and $$ for the crimp tool for 2 fans?????
SAE: not sure where to find these as general search didn't turn up much.
XT60: Apparently these are Solder only connections...no crimp...I don't do solder well...talk about melting...
deutsch: Can only find 25A rated connectors

What am I missing? Please help me find a quality 30A automotive 12v connector.

-Kevin

 

[mk378]

How removable do the fans need to be? Could you just splice them in and then cut the wires and redo if it was ever necessary to pull a fan out?

 

[Sequoiasoon]

A little outside the box but something like jumper cable / HiLo connectors?

6-12 gauge Battery cable connector

The Metri-Pack look good also. Metri-pack 2 pin

Maybe time for some different fans?

 

[meep]

Might use a connector with twice the conductor count and then double up on the wires (2 pins per signal instead of 1).

 

[weq92f]

How removable do the fans need to be? Could you just splice them in and then cut the wires and redo if it was ever necessary to pull a fan out?

I've hardwired one already...it will stay until it needs to come loose again...the other fan needs the same treatment but the leads on both are short so I don't want to keep cutting them.

A little outside the box but something like jumper cable / HiLo connectors?

6-12 gauge Battery cable connector

The Metri-Pack look good also. Metri-pack 2 pin

Maybe time for some different fans?

I think each of these require a non-standard crimp tool..one is 4 or 6 point indention onto a closed barrel and the other needs something proprietary as well. Don't want to spend a lot on this one time deal. I'm setup for closed barrel 10awg W or Indent crimp and smaller F/B crimp styles so I can do butt connections to a 10awg pigtail easier/cheaper. Fans...they are spal units.

 

[boom10ful]

Running 140A alt in my Classic vehicle. I connect that 6awg lead to a bus bar. From the bus bar I run 10awg to 40A relay that feeds my fan via 10AWG.

Recently diagnosed a dead FAN1 (I have 2 fans each wired independently the same way). Found melted connector at fan, melted inline fuse holder near bus bar and some melted wires surrounding the inline fuse holder. The fan draws 20A max. The connector at fan is standard SPAL connector with a matching pigtail I purchased somewhere Online years ago...took several seasons to do the burning and fail BTW.

I've rewired the fans now to include fusible link rather than fuse holders and have hardwired the offending fans connector (removed the melted connector). NOTE that I left FAN2 connected up with it's plastic SPAL connector and pigtail I wired up to it. That connector gets burn-you-hot-to-the-touch when that fan is active. These stock spal connectors are apparently junk.

I'm currently seeking to find a quality 12v connector that is rated at 30A (a true 30A) and accepts or is configured already with 10AWG wire. It must not cost me 40 dollars to wire in 2 connectors please, but I do want quality products that will not immediately evaporate into thin air.

I'm looking for a true 30A connector solution that I will crimp onto my existing system to simply connect 10AWG cables to the fans.

Please help.

BTW I've looked at these:

Metri: Found a few of these Online...expensive and requires special crimp tool...like 40 dollars for the parts and $$ for the crimp tool for 2 fans?????
SAE: not sure where to find these as general search didn't turn up much.
XT60: Apparently these are Solder only connections...no crimp...I don't do solder well...talk about melting...
deutsch: Can only find 25A rated connectors

What am I missing? Please help me find a quality 30A automotive 12v connector.

-Kevin

I'm not a big fan of Deutsche connectors tbh. Seen too many problems with them at low amperage at work. I hardly ever see any issues with Delphi Weather pack connectors so that would be my recommendation.

 

[Marcozi]

www.mouser.com

 

[weq92f]

.

Thanks guys. I took the time to learn how to use the mouser site lookup tool. It took a call to mouser tech support to learn that, at least for Aptiv.com branded parts from them, the user must search for needed part numbers on the manufacturers web site or catalog, then put those into the Mouser search box to find them. Not intuitive at all but the guy said they were working on a solution to that. It took a while but I put in my order for 2 metripack 480 2-way 42A unsealed connectors. These will accept my 10AWG input and SPAL fan input (I think this is 12 or 14 AWG) and connect them together...hopefully with no melting.

I'm hoping a standard F/B type crimp tool will be good enough to attach the pins to the wires.

The parts for the 2 connectors was just over 7 dollars. With shipping/tax that's about 16 bucks. Less expensive than purchasing them already assembled from a place like Summit at roughly 14 bucks for a single connector.

According to the details at Checkout, I paid $0.20 tariff on this purchase...


-Kevin

 

[Donald]

Running 140A alt in my Classic vehicle. I connect that 6awg lead to a bus bar. From the bus bar I run 10awg to 40A relay that feeds my fan via 10AWG.

Recently diagnosed a dead FAN1 (I have 2 fans each wired independently the same way). Found melted connector at fan, melted inline fuse holder near bus bar and some melted wires surrounding the inline fuse holder. The fan draws 20A max. The connector at fan is standard SPAL connector with a matching pigtail I purchased somewhere Online years ago...took several seasons to do the burning and fail BTW.

I've rewired the fans now to include fusible link rather than fuse holders and have hardwired the offending fans connector (removed the melted connector). NOTE that I left FAN2 connected up with it's plastic SPAL connector and pigtail I wired up to it. That connector gets burn-you-hot-to-the-touch when that fan is active. These stock spal connectors are apparently junk.

I'm currently seeking to find a quality 12v connector that is rated at 30A (a true 30A) and accepts or is configured already with 10AWG wire. It must not cost me 40 dollars to wire in 2 connectors please, but I do want quality products that will not immediately evaporate into thin air.

I'm looking for a true 30A connector solution that I will crimp onto my existing system to simply connect 10AWG cables to the fans.

Please help.

BTW I've looked at these:

Metri: Found a few of these Online...expensive and requires special crimp tool...like 40 dollars for the parts and $$ for the crimp tool for 2 fans?????
SAE: not sure where to find these as general search didn't turn up much.
XT60: Apparently these are Solder only connections...no crimp...I don't do solder well...talk about melting...
deutsch: Can only find 25A rated connectors

What am I missing? Please help me find a quality 30A automotive 12v connector.

-Kevin

Ancor connectors are excellent. Designed for boats but will work on cars. They have a lot of connectors types and sizes.