Crimped electrical connections

[Donald]

Ancor double crimp crimper tool has two crimps one is longer than the other. I assume longer one is to crimp the stripped wire in the connector barrel and the shorter one to crimp the funnel part of the connector barrel over the insulation of the wire. I am trying to find a diagram that shows exactly how to insert an Ancor connect into the tool.

Using a ring terminal as an example, it makes a difference whether the ring is on the left or right. And the connector barrel is wider than the crimp tool one can insert the connect towards the ring or towards the connector barrel end. By maybe 3/16" of an inch.

I asked West Marine and the person said just insert the connector and squeeze the lever. It's not that easy to get a perfect crimp with strain relief for the wire.

Any comments? Links?

 

[doitmyself]

Ancor double crimp crimper tool has two crimps one is longer than the other. I assume longer one is to crimp the stripped wire in the connector barrel and the shorter one to crimp the funnel part of the connector barrel over the insulation of the wire. I am trying to find a diagram that shows exactly how to insert an Ancor connect into the tool.

Using a ring terminal as an example, it makes a difference whether the ring is on the left or right. And the connector barrel is wider than the crimp tool one can insert the connect towards the ring or towards the connector barrel end. By maybe 3/16" of an inch.

I asked West Marine and the person said just insert the connector and squeeze the lever. It's not that easy to get a perfect crimp with strain relief for the wire.

Any comments? Links?

Do these help:
https://us.binnacle.com/pdf/Ancor 7...B5-YFLtPhulB2h9Z10lugvMFILqOAUhQ3jCUX5hVZDua9

https://www.devill.net/Documentation/ACCESSOIRES/Ancor-sertissage.pdf

"lmportant! When placing the terminal into the appropriate color-coded nest make sure the area to be crimped onto the exposed wire strands is opposite the colored dot and on the smooth arc side of the die. The opposite colored dot side of the die with the indent in each cavity is
designed to put the second crimp in the insulation portion of the wire"

 

[i6pwr]

Ancor is good stuff, I have a few of their connectors but also have a good assortment of Wirefy connectors and they are very good.

 

[Donald]

Do these help:
https://us.binnacle.com/pdf/Ancor 7...B5-YFLtPhulB2h9Z10lugvMFILqOAUhQ3jCUX5hVZDua9

https://www.devill.net/Documentation/ACCESSOIRES/Ancor-sertissage.pdf

"lmportant! When placing the terminal into the appropriate color-coded nest make sure the area to be crimped onto the exposed wire strands is opposite the colored dot and on the smooth arc side of the die. The opposite colored dot side of the die with the indent in each cavity is
designed to put the second crimp in the insulation portion of the wire"

I have made a couple of test double crimps. Cut away the insulation and looked at the crimp with a magnifying glass.

My conclusion is that the edge of the jaw on the small crimp side should line up exactly with the outside edge of the funnel section of the barrel. The insulated part of the wire goes into the funnel a littlel and the bare wire then goes into the normal size section of the barrel. The funnel gets crimped with the small crimp and provides strain relief for the wire holding it by the insulation.

 

[Marcozi]

Crimp, then solder.

 

[Pablo]

Crimp, then solder.

That can work if the solder doesn't wick up the stranded wire and cause a stress point but generally not a great idea.

 

[Urshurak776]

I do a lot of crimping for motion systems in CNC plus 3D printers. Soldering a no no.

Cheapest connectors you can find on ali-express. 10,000 for $1.00 and you get a free oil filter.

HaHa - Kidding

Worth getting quality connectors and the right type of crimper.

 

[Marcozi]

That can work if the solder doesn't wick up the stranded wire and cause a stress point but generally not a great idea.

The solution is to use only a very small amount of solder.

 

[Pablo]

The solution is to use only a very small amount of solder.

Which people without training and a good solder station seem not to be able to control. The bigger the blob the better the job!

 

[doitmyself]

The solution is to use only a very small amount of solder.

Agree with Pablo. The issue with either system resulting in correct connections goes back to proper tools and skill level. So many people simply think you heat the connection and glob solder on or you squeeze the connector on and bingo, you're good. People mis-use torque wrenches the same way. I see these same issues with weekend warrior chainsaw use. It's not rocket science, but...................... .

 

[4329]

What is the point of soldering a terminal after being crimped using the correct crimper, is it due to lack of trust in one’s own work or perhaps using incorrect terminals and crimpers.

Crimp terminals are not intended to be soldered and is usually performed by people with limited knowledge of what a good crimp can achieve in relation to electrical conductivity and mechanical strength.

By all means solder a terminal designed to be soldered taking extreme care to avoid wicking and cold joints but never solder a crimped terminal.

 

[X15]

I have made a couple of test double crimps. Cut away the insulation and looked at the crimp with a magnifying glass.

My conclusion is that the edge of the jaw on the small crimp side should line up exactly with the outside edge of the funnel section of the barrel. The insulated part of the wire goes into the funnel a littlel and the bare wire then goes into the normal size section of the barrel. The funnel gets crimped with the small crimp and provides strain relief for the wire holding it by the insulation.

The smaller area half of the nest is for the conductor barrel, the larger, typically more oval shaped half is for the insulation barrel, the wire should be sticking out of the side of the die that has the dot on it.

You also need to have some bare wire (brush) sticking out of the conductor barrel, but not to much, and it should have a bellmouth, not crimped right to the end.

https://www.te.com/content/dam/te-c...rimp Quality Poster_ENGLISH_26x13 version.pdf

 

[Randol]

Not preferred to solder after crimping, if you overheat the joint and wick solder up the wire strands, that's where it will break. True for any solder joint on stranded wire in a movement or vibration environment.
Use the right size quality terminals, use good crimpers, do a pull test if you are concerned.
Here is a good reference: https://www.fscables.com/sites/admi...fscables/other pdf/cablecraft_crimp_guide.pdf

 

[Donald]

Here is the Ancor Double Crimper

 

[X15]

Here is the Ancor Double Crimper

Can you post some more pictures? That doesn't look like an insulated terminal double crimp die.

 

[Donald]

Can you post some more pictures? That doesn't look like an insulated terminal double crimp die.

It's an older Ancor double crimp tool. New ones are blue handle.

 

[Donald]

Can you post some more pictures? That doesn't look like an insulated terminal double crimp die.

I found an article saying the new Ancor double crimp tool is not the same as the older model I have. Mine is probably 15 maybe 20 years old. So new and old are relative. New model from Ancor could be 10 years in production. Here is a picture from the article

 

[wtd]

I have ratcheting crimpers but have not had good luck with them but they are not high dollar ones. I usually use my Snap On PWCS7ACF or Snap On 29ACF regular type crimpers with good success. I also have the Channel Lock version of the SO 29ACF crimpers.

I use terminals that you heat shrink and have the adhesive in them.

 

[Donald]

So it was maybe 15 years ago that my Dad got me this Ancor double crimp tool. At least I thought it was the Ancor double crimp tool for the last 15 years. Now looking closely I see it's a GS Tools YYT1 double crimp tool. Maybe Ancor resold this one. Or I just cannot remember.

So the question is, do I use this GS YYT1 tool or buy the Ancor double crimp tool.

The GS YYT1 looks to be a well made tool. The question is, does it put the proper crimps in the right place for the Ancor double crimp connectors?

 

[X15]

So it was maybe 15 years ago that my Dad got me this Ancor double crimp tool. At least I thought it was the Ancor double crimp tool for the last 15 years. Now looking closely I see it's a GS Tools YYT1 double crimp tool. Maybe Ancor resold this one. Or I just cannot remember.

So the question is, do I use this GS YYT1 tool or buy the Ancor double crimp tool.

The GS YYT1 looks to be a well made tool. The question is, does it put the proper crimps in the right place for the Ancor double crimp connectors?

The "GS" mark is a German Geprüfte Sicherheit voluntary (VPA) certification, I think the actual ODM of the tool is this Taiwanese company Parget Industrial.

Most of the results on Google for the YYT1 have HellermannTyton branding, and they list as being for insulated single grip terminals.

If you want to use it with Ancor double crimp terminals you would ideally need to measure the crimp height and test the pull out force, probably easier to just get the Ancor brand tool.