CRANK but NO START

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

SumpChump

Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
1,980
Location
Upper Midwest by the Lakes USA
2013 Toyota Camry. 55k. 4cyl owned since new. 25F wisconsin winter dry roads.

Car ran fine yesterday, wife parked in garage. CRANKS but no start. Put in a brand new Maxx battery from Walmart. Cranks slightly faster and cylinders fire for just a moment, the engine catches just for a moment. Not two seconds etc. it never really starts running.

Oil level good, fuel 3/4 tank, coolant level good, belts on amd good. No codes on reader. Air filter clean. No wires un plugged. Car energizes Coils with the typical bzzz sound just as since new. Gas tank is locked and no tampering. In garage locked safe all night.

Won't start!
 
Start with the basics first. Check to see if you have ignition spark and then check for fuel pressure. Both will require some inexpensive testers.
 
The throttle body's electronic, but it might work. Could be plugs or coils. Once you get the problem fixed, I'd recommend top tier gas and a bottle of techron to clean out any build up.
 
If the engine cranks, then it's not likely the battery needs replacement. Unless it turns over real slowly.

In your case, you need to verify for the 2 basic requirement the engine needs to start... fuel and spark.

1) Open the gas cap, put your ear close to the open filler nozzle and have someone turn the ignition to the on position, just prior to start. Can you hear the fuel pump running for a short while? When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

2) Take off one ignition coil and spark plug. Ground the threaded portion of the spark plug and have someone crank the engine. Can you verify spark?

If you have both fuel and spark, then it's possible the spark timing might be off. This may point to a timing issue, which you will have to dig deeper. Possible culprits are cam or crank angle sensors...

Check the basics first.
 
My old dodge van 318 had the same symptoms, it was a bad ignition coil, put that on and it fired right up, a 30 minute fix.
 
This car has coils on plugs so if one goes bad it only takes one cyl down.

Any security lights or aftermarket system?
 
I see a LOT of newer cars towed into my shop that get flooded / loaded with fuel, exp in cooler weather. Try clear-flooding with the throttle fully depressed. It can take 10-20 to clear.

Of course, a fully charged battery is needed

Try that
 
Last edited:
I know there's a fair amount of gunk buildup on the positive terminal. Maybe the cable end just needs to be cleaned. Other than that I'm curious of the outcome since I have a 2012 with 64k miles. I did recently fill up the battery with some distilled water.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Crankshaft position sensor...Tap with a screwdriver can bring them back...temporarily...

It does show "some" rpm needle movement when cranking. It does jump up when cranking I mean to say. Does that mean the sensor is likely ok?
 
If the door was open when the battery was disconnected then the alarm/immobilizer is on. Use the key cylinder in the drivers door & lock & unlock using the metal key. Then try to start it. If it doesn't start, do you have the "check engine light" turn on & off after 3 seconds with the ignition in the ON position? If the light doesn't illuminate you may have blown a ECU IG or other fuse under the hood junction block near the battery.
 
Spray some starting fluid into the throttle body and crank it. If it runs longer than it currently runs.... then it's a fuel issue.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Try cracking the throttle open a little.


I floored the throttle and cranked for more attempts than I like to admit, though nome more than 3secinds continuous.
She started ran real rough and now is idling at a teasonable 1k rpm . For additional data with car now running it shows 14.0 volts at the battery. Good i think for the alternator bill of health?

But when a tap the accelerator i get a very faint quick "whistle" i can hear from under the hood with the car door open. Only whistles quickly as i tap the accelerator idling.

What could that be?!? lol. my goodness sake.

Actually the quick little whistle may be from the rear near the muffler or rear passenger side.
 
I was getting a whistle recently but it went away and haven't noticed it lately. It seemed to have developed around 50 mph or shortly after getting on the hwy then would stop after a few mins. I thought it had something to do with me cleaning the engine bay a few months prior but who knows.
 
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Crankshaft position sensor...Tap with a screwdriver can bring them back...temporarily...

It does show "some" rpm needle movement when cranking. It does jump up when cranking I mean to say. Does that mean the sensor is likely ok?


Not sure...On a Ford the "check engine light" will illuminate while engine cranks when CPS is bad
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
  • Locked
99 Malibu 2.4l long crank time to sometime start
2
Replies
30
Views
10K
Arctic388
JHZR2
  • Locked
Help! No codes, no start, no run...
2 3
Replies
47
Views
29K
Nick R
R
  • Locked
Crank, no start
Replies
17
Views
6K
Russ
mclasser
Cam & crank sensors
Replies
8
Views
2K
14Accent
B
  • Locked
1992 f150 4.9 cranks but won't start etc.
2
Replies
24
Views
12K
mk378
Back
Top Bottom